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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello guys!

A few months ago I had a completely dead battery around 1V. It was 70Ah, so the new one I got was 74Ah if that makes a difference. After that, I also changed the interior fan control because that was actually draining my battery in the first place. All was fine until I noticed that the temperature gauge never reached the middle like it did before. But I mean by a really small amount, like 1-2mm to the left of the perfect middle, but I can still notice it and it's bugging me. It goes up like normal. The hidden menu 7 shows that it reaches 92-94 degrees and stays there but the gauge is always slightly to the left. The thermostat is new, but since the dash shows that it's in the 90s I'm not taking into account any possible issues with the cooling system and am more concentrated on the dash gauge itself.
I tried resetting it two times using function 21 and also did the cluster test 2 and all was fine. I also disconnected the battery for 15-20 mins and nothing changed.
I have yet to connect it to INPA, but wanted to ask in the meantime is this something normal, or did I fry something? Normal as in, is this a common fault?

I know it's not a big deal but I'm afraid if something actually goes wrong with the cooling will the gauge actually show it. In the pic you can't really tell because of the angle, but from the driver's seat, you can easily tell that it is a bit off.

I have an intake CPS due for changing if that makes a difference. It's a M54B22. Cooling system was overhauled 10k km ago, or 2 years (haven't driven much).

Thank you guys in advance!
185323258_549628372711464_144378955330855560_n.jpg
 

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Heh.

Mine does that sometimes- it's like the difference between 94 and 96 is either side of vertical.

It bugs me, too- I want it to be straight up and down. OR move around a bit more.

PICK ONE!!!

I even did the 1:1 gauge recode, so that it (pretty much) follows actual engine temperature...
Now, at least, it sits on the left side of straight up and down...


So here's the 'why' part- the gauge is run by a stepper motor, which has a finite number of
'stop points'. And I'm guessing (by the sound they make) that the gauge electronics aren't
'microstepping' or interpolating between the finite steps. So the precision of the whole system's
such that 'one step to either side of straight up and down' is really 'pretty much the same temperature.'

Totally visually annoying.
Totally a design 'feature'.

I need to replace the thermostat- I'm terrified that will make it worse, not better...

t
no help here.
 

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???

You are worrying that the needle is off by the thickness of the needle? When the needle hovers just above the blue, or just below the red, you need to pay attention, but anywhere between about 1/4 and 3/4 scale is okay. The thickness of the needle is surely an acceptable variance. If it's 100 outside and the needle goes to blue, or if it's 10 outside and the needle goes to red, then you have to look at something and maybe even get your wrenches out to spend some quality time under the hood. But cold climates might see the needle stay below the mid-scale, and hot climates might see the needle rise above mid-scale. The thickness of the needle, or even two or three thicknesses of the needle are not cause for concern, especially if the deviation tracks the current climate conditions.

FROM THE OWNER'S MANUAL
"Normal temperature is between the two colored zones. The needle may tend to reach the red zone when the ambient temperature and/or engine load is very high."
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Heh.

Mine does that sometimes- it's like the difference between 94 and 96 is either side of vertical.

It bugs me, too- I want it to be straight up and down. OR move around a bit more.

PICK ONE!!!

I even did the 1:1 gauge recode, so that it (pretty much) follows actual engine temperature...
Now, at least, it sits on the left side of straight up and down...


So here's the 'why' part- the gauge is run by a stepper motor, which has a finite number of
'stop points'. And I'm guessing (by the sound they make) that the gauge electronics aren't
'microstepping' or interpolating between the finite steps. So the precision of the whole system's
such that 'one step to either side of straight up and down' is really 'pretty much the same temperature.'

Totally visually annoying.
Totally a design 'feature'.

I need to replace the thermostat- I'm terrified that will make it worse, not better...

t
no help here.

Thanks for the info, at least I know I'm not fully alone in this lol.

???

You are worrying that the needle is off by the thickness of the needle? When the needle hovers just above the blue, or just below the red, you need to pay attention, but anywhere between about 1/4 and 3/4 scale is okay. The thickness of the needle is surely an acceptable variance. If it's 100 outside and the needle goes to blue, or if it's 10 outside and the needle goes to red, then you have to look at something and maybe even get your wrenches out to spend some quality time under the hood. But cold climates might see the needle stay below the mid-scale, and hot climates might see the needle rise above mid-scale. The thickness of the needle, or even two or three thicknesses of the needle are not cause for concern, especially if the deviation tracks the current climate conditions.

FROM THE OWNER'S MANUAL
"Normal temperature is between the two colored zones. The needle may tend to reach the red zone when the ambient temperature and/or engine load is very high."
To be more exact I'm worried that it was perfectly fine before right in the middle, but after a dead battery and later changed with a new one, this started happening. I'm worried that I fried my dash and that something is not right and might get worse and worse and not show the temperature correctly. You are right though, it is pretty minuscule of a change but I just wanted to check if it is in the limit of what is normal and judging by the quote you gave from the manual, I guess all is normal. I just know that these engines run hot and it won't even start moving until it reaches like 116C+. I guess I have to get used to my new normal to be slightly to the left lol.

You have worn brakes, this is a more critical need than your current temp.
If you're talking about the red light, that is for the handbrake. It's a manual so I don't have Park, so neutral and handbrake up :) . Thanks for the concern though lol. I tend to baby this car a bit, I guess a little bit too much. Just did the CCV a few weeks ago, but right after that I got a code up for the intake CPS so I guess that is next. Also have a couple of oil leaks, one on the halfmoons on the vanos at the VCG, and one kinda big one that I don't know where it's coming from, but it's making a drop at the transmission. Kinda strange that the RMS, OPG, OFG and VCG have been changed, so there goes a bit more investigating.

I'm going off-topic, so thanks for the replies guys!
 

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Thanks for the info, at least I know I'm not fully alone in this lol.



To be more exact I'm worried that it was perfectly fine before right in the middle, but after a dead battery and later changed with a new one, this started happening. I'm worried that I fried my dash and that something is not right and might get worse and worse and not show the temperature correctly. You are right though, it is pretty minuscule of a change but I just wanted to check if it is in the limit of what is normal and judging by the quote you gave from the manual, I guess all is normal. I just know that these engines run hot and it won't even start moving until it reaches like 116C+. I guess I have to get used to my new normal to be slightly to the left lol.



If you're talking about the red light, that is for the handbrake. It's a manual so I don't have Park, so neutral and handbrake up :) . Thanks for the concern though lol. I tend to baby this car a bit, I guess a little bit too much. Just did the CCV a few weeks ago, but right after that I got a code up for the intake CPS so I guess that is next. Also have a couple of oil leaks, one on the halfmoons on the vanos at the VCG, and one kinda big one that I don't know where it's coming from, but it's making a drop at the transmission. Kinda strange that the RMS, OPG, OFG and VCG have been changed, so there goes a bit more investigating.

I'm going off-topic, so thanks for the replies guys!


Sorry, I completely missed the metric scale for the speedo. We get PARK when the parking brake is set, our brake wear indicator looks similar to your parking brake light.
 
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