[vtwagon]

Yeah. It does a decent job just by hand buffing. I know if I had a polishing wheel I could do some amazing stuff.

I keep saying I'm going to buy one after I get done sweating to death buffing by hand. Then never do. Lol

Haha yeah, same boat here. Lots of hand buffing, polishing and waxing on black paint in the last year to revive a non bmw of mine. It looks ok but a da is in my future 🤞🏻

 

[yjsaabman]

Sweet deal!

Their cleaner wax seems to do a great job as far as I can tell.

That was about the only thing that would save the single stage red on my 1997 Golf without machine polishing. Cleaner wax to bring back the shine, NXT 2.0 to seal it in for longer.

 

[Jill83]

I changed the fuel filter!!

 

[02 Gray in Blue]

Installed Continental WW pump (VDO-246082008025Z) and OEM grommet (61667006063)
Installed Trunk lid support struts (STB-9832NI)

 

[02 Gray in Blue]

Today was changing rear diff fluid. Used ST FS 75W90. Old fluid looked and smelled great, and was still a medium amber. Took just over 1 US Quart.

 

[viperocco]

Installed the windshield cowl today. FCP Euro has em on sale at the moment, at least for early e46 coupes (01 330ci).
Anyway it was an uncomplicated, fun install with great results. Makes a huge difference to what was on the car. Also I failed to read the reviews and Q&A otherwise I would have known that the cowl comes with the clips.

 

[das_autobahn]

When your 21 years & 270,000+ miles. Your hard pipes probably need changing, so why not everything else that's a hose, pipe or vaccum line. Motor mounts and rebuilt injectors as well.
Could it really do a 1/2 mill? Original auto tyranny and engine.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

i did my hard pipes at 200,000 one was weeping to be noticeable in the ex tank (coolant loss)

 

[L8Braker35]

Oil change (M1), trans and diff fluid (Redline), LM engine flush. 150k and going strong.

Rear wheel arches needed a slight roll and the inner shield trimmed. The H&R Sport springs are a bit soft in the rear for my taste, so I might need an upgrade to some TCK rears. Then perhaps a bigger front bar. Baby steps.

 

[alan53]

I did my second oil change on my 330 6 speed,this was done 40Kmiles after the first done at 180Kmiles. I was eager to see the oils condition as the original bmw oil at the first oil change was black smelly and very thin.The oil on the second change looked very usable still see through but with some darkness which i attribute to the original oils condition.Of course i loosened the fill cap first.If you havent done an oil change on a manual its not usually difficult and bmw did admit a few years ago that "lifetime" means 100Kmiles? or kilometers i dont recall,anyway I hope this helps.

 

[Jbp]

New steering wheels.

 

[BavarianZHP]

New steering wheels.

Coby Wheel? How long did it take from order to shipment?

 

[Jbp]

Coby Wheel? How long did it take from order to shipment?

Yeah, it took six weeks.

 

[cigma2312]

Water in the spare wheel well and dead OE ballast. Drained the water from the trunk/boot and disassembled the ballast from the headlight housing. Current searching for a replacement ballast and ordering gaskets for the tail lights. The originals are old and cracked. Prepping to repair the trunk lid seal as well, PO had a leak prior because the water in the well was aged. There is a small section of rot under the driver's tail light which will need to be mended. PO included the lower trunk lip and I have a welder.

Will probably write a DIY for the replacement of the piece.

 

[Bidno]

After a summer of 87 octane, filled 1/2 tank with 91. Fuel trims promptly dropped to 4-6 from 10-12 -- and performance improved. Wh00t

 

[yjsaabman]

View attachment 961483
View attachment 961484

Water in the spare wheel well and dead OE ballast. Drained the water from the trunk/boot and disassembled the ballast from the headlight housing. Current searching for a replacement ballast and ordering gaskets for the tail lights. The originals are old and cracked. Prepping to repair the trunk lid seal as well, PO had a leak prior because the water in the well was aged. There is a small section of rot under the driver's tail light which will need to be mended. PO included the lower trunk lip and I have a welder.
View attachment 961486
Will probably write a DIY for the replacement of the piece.
View attachment 961487

I probably have a pre-lci sedan/touring xenon ballast kicking around, if that would work. Just cover shipping and it's yours.

 

[cigma2312]

I probably have a pre-lci sedan/touring xenon ballast kicking around, if that would work. Just cover shipping and it's yours.

I don't think the part numbers are different, send me a convo and let me know. That would be super appreciated.

 

[cigma2312]

After a summer of 87 octane, filled 1/2 tank with 91. Fuel trims promptly dropped to 4-6 from 10-12 -- and performance improved. Wh00t

I've always used the highest octane I can get, maybe it's a little bit of the stupid in me but it just seems to run better.

 

[02 Gray in Blue]

Over the weekend, I:

-Did a drain and fill on the transmission (ZF5HP19) using Valvoline Maxlife ATF
-Drained again, dropped pan, filter and LFVB
-Installed Transgo's Pressure Regulator Valve (ZF5HP19-PR)
-New Filter, pan gasket and plugs (ZFS-5961300580)
-Topped off with move VML (took 8 quarts)
-Test drive and no leaks!

 

[cigma2312]

Drained and repaired the spare wheel well today.

This here is a drain plug, you can see a little of the gasket material on the right side of the circle

With a little persuasion the plug came out and drained all the water to the ground. I left the trunk to dry over night. Then started sanding down the rust and bubbled paint.

You can see the drain hole a bit more pronounced now that I've removed a few layers of rust.

Almost there. I also used a brass brush to loosen any other rust not easily accessed by sand paper.

After a final pass with some 120 sand paper I applied a layer of rust stopping primer. I used gray because this is just the spare tire well and isnt going to seen frequently.

I also cleaned and applied paint to the other side of the plug to prevent it from spreading beneath the undercoat. I have now popped a 1 inch body plug into the drain hole.

TOMORROWS PROJECT: removal of rear bumper and sealing the body from future leaks.

Here's where the water is coming in, note how the fabric pad for the wheel chock is soaked. During this project I have discovered that the vehicle has been in an unreported accident. There is impact folding on the spare wheel well on the same side as the leak. It doesn't seem too damaged and could probably just be adjusted and sealed. It looks like someone backed into something or scrubbed a guard rail trying to drift it.

 

[cigma2312]

Didn't end up doing the bumper today, instead I went to disassembling the Xenon control unit P/N 1307329023 from the headlight assembly.

Corrosion present on Xenon control unit bracket and wiring harness. Power is present to connector, so wiring harness is still intact.

Control unit had 3 philips head bolts, all three showed signs of deterioration. 2 of the 3 were no longer usable, with an electric drill and a metal bit I drilled out the heads of the two non-serviceable bolts. Seems like an M8 size at 18mm long

Removal of the entire assembly was necessary to reach the control unit mounted on the underside of the headlight. Held in place by 2 Philips screws through the control bracket into the headlight assembly.

The assembly is now ready to accept a new ballast, during reassembly the connectors will all be weather proofed with silicone grease after being cleaned from corrosion.