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2004 325Ci 5MT M54B25 Stock / 2005 330Ci 6MT M54B30
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150 Posts
Put on the Winter Wheels. Took a 6 hour drive and it is @#$^%^ 70 degrees...

Hopefully Winter shows up someday.
 

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Updated to the x3/x5 heated steering wheel in the wagon last night. Just had to replace clock spring wheel and airbag and ran two wires from the clock spring over to the center console. Used pre-wired phone harness for 12v switched power. Replaced the stock 5a fuse with a 10a and everything works great! Got the amber trio warning afterwards and was confused, but I bumped the brake switch on the pedal when I was wiring.. such a good mod and fairly easy to do. Only paid 250 for the entire x5 steering column with all the parts and then some. Going to have this wheel locally recovered in the next few weeks with suede and m- stitch! Stay tuned!
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I like the look of this. Does the entire column have to be changed to go from stock E46 2003 Sedan 330i M Sport to get heated wheel? What years or Exx X3/X5 do I need to find please?

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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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I like the look of this. Does the entire column have to be changed to go from stock E46 2003 Sedan 330i M Sport to get heated wheel? What years or Exx X3/X5 do I need to find please?

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I understood him to say that he just bought the whole column for the sake of economics, and only the wheel and clock spring needed to be swapped.
 

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2004 Schwartz/Montana 330xiT 6 speed , 2004 330xi auto for the GF
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112 Posts
I like the look of this. Does the entire column have to be changed to go from stock E46 2003 Sedan 330i M Sport to get heated wheel? What years or Exx X3/X5 do I need to find please?

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Thanks! Going to look really good when I get the wheel wrapped, but now it's in the 70's in new england, and I have no need for the heat!
You only need the wheel, airbag, or controls with the heated button, and the clockspring. I called the junkyard that had one and asked for those three parts but when I got there to pick it up they just gave me the whole column because it was easier for the guy to remove and I was very insistent that I need all of the parts for the conversation to work. It helped out because I was worried about having the connector and two wires to run power to the clockspring, and I got the connector with a foot and a half of wire still on it. Still needed to lengthen it, , but that was easy... You want the one from a 2002-2006 x3/x5 and all associated parts. Both setups are identical and will jive with the e46 and the interior feel. The top section on the wheel is slightly bigger than e46 base wheel, but hardly noticeable, and it feels a bit thicker with the heater element. All and all I am very happy, and one of the easiest and most enjoyable thing I've done since the 3.0/ 6spd swap! I really want to have my zhp wheighted knob heated now... Anyone got anything on that??
 

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339 Posts
Front control arms, tie rods, ball joints and control arm bushings....replacing just the bushing on those control arms were as much fun as wheel bearings.... should bought the aftermarket ones that came with the bushing already in the bracket lol. Replaced the license plate lights too. Hopefully have enough time to wash it as well


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I'm about to do this.
  • Recommended part list?
  • Any special tools needed?
  • Links to DIY this?
  • Is it difficult?
 

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I'm about to do this.
  • Recommended part list?
  • Any special tools needed?
  • Links to DIY this?
  • Is it difficult?
Difficult, no. A bit time consuming is all. I would recommend the control arm bushings that are already assembled rather than trying to replace just the bushing. I won’t go in to how much of a pain that was. I source my parts from fcp, ecs, rmeuropean typically. For bmw brand part I use get bmw parts.com. Use real oem with your vin to get part numbers then buy them from who ever is cheaper. Nothing too special is needed, typical metric tools, impacts are helpful, 15mm-22mm wrenches. I think I used 15,16,18,22 iirc. You will need a large adjustable wrench and a very large adjustable wrench, the inner tie rods are something like a 33mm and the other one is a 26 or something- but two big adjustable wrenches will work. I opted to reuse the old toe rod boots, which you can do if you disassemble or cut the old tie rod in half to take the boot off. I’m sure there are plenty of DIY’s on the forums and YouTube. I didn’t use one, it’s pretty straight forward. You will need an alignment afterward. You can use string around the 4 wheels to get you pretty close tho.


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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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You will need a large adjustable wrench and a very large adjustable wrench, the inner tie rods are something like a 33mm and the other one is a 26 or something- but two big adjustable wrenches will work. I opted to reuse the old toe rod boots, which you can do if you disassemble or cut the old tie rod in half to take the boot off. I’m sure there are plenty of DIY’s on the forums and YouTube. I didn’t use one, it’s pretty straight forward. You will need an alignment afterward. You can use string around the 4 wheels to get you pretty close tho.


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I can't recommend this. On mine, at 200k, the tie rods themselves were still good but one boot was torn, meaning that that end would fail pretty soon as dirt got in. It's a big PITA to do later if the boot fails, and the Febi boots are less than $13 ea. so you're really not saving yourself very much by not doing them preventatively.
 

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I can't recommend this. On mine, at 200k, the tie rods themselves were still good but one boot was torn, meaning that that end would fail pretty soon as dirt got in. It's a big PITA to do later if the boot fails, and the Febi boots are less than $13 ea. so you're really not saving yourself very much by doing them preventatively.
Good point. I normally wouldnt but mine were fine, which I looked at prior to ordering everything. Most of the aftermarket ones typically come with new boots. I stay away from aftermarket and use only bmw or OE parts, so the parts I ordered didn’t come in a kit form with new boots, the boots where like 48 each or something. So that was another reason i didn’t get new ones. But ya either check yours over good or get new ones


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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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Good point. I normally wouldnt but mine were fine, which I looked at prior to ordering everything. Most of the aftermarket ones typically come with new boots. I stay away from aftermarket and use only bmw or OE parts, so the parts I ordered didn’t come in a kit form with new boots, the boots where like 48 each or something. So that was another reason i didn’t get new ones. But ya either check yours over good or get new ones


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Yeah, in this case Febi is the OE, you just get them for $13 buying them in the Febi box instead of a bag with a BMW sticker on it.
 

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The OE tie rods are lemforder, fcp was lowest price for those, they do have a kit that has the Lemforder tie rods and the Febi boots, however, they don’t appear to be the original design boots, it has a rubber collar. I’m not a big fan of that.


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2003 330ci Convertible Sport package
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136 Posts
Poweflex rear sway bar bushings, and new shock mounts with ECS reinforcement plates. Treated ALL my bushings with some brake fluid stop leak. Now cigar and race day.


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Refreshening the front lighting on my 2001 330i Sport Sedan (ZCP) that I had since new . . . new BOSCH lens, Umnitza Orion V4 kit, new fogs. I love my e46 (with 6 speed conversion) over my tuned e90 Sport Sedan 6 speed (VERY FAST).

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My car 330ci has had a problem pulling away from a standing start where it hesitates briefly,its been like that for years so i got used to it.Anyway I replaced the bank 2 pre cat sensor a while back when i got a code warning.I finally got round to replacing the bank 1 sensor a couple of days ago,as best practice is to swap both.Finally no hesitation what a nice surprise.
Maybe this will help some one else with this issue itts worth considering the age of the pre cat sensors.
 

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Full cooling system overhaul and electric fan conversion on a dinan equipped 325i


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2003 330ci Convertible Sport package
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While waiting on a part to finish up the cooling system I removed the rear diff from the 325i to reseal the cover and replace the output shaft seals.

The gasket that bmw used back in the day was not a smart idea.

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2003 330i
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I finished a transmission overhaul on Tuesday after some extreme failing. Turns out there was no clutch in the torque converter when it would lock up so it was metal on metal. So a thorough cleaning if the inside was a good idea. Anyways, I still have issues with my zf :(.
It went into limp mode and even disconnecting the battery would not remove it. I cleated the codes because some of them were from before I did the overhaul and it works fine in manuel mode but in D mode it is extremely jerky. I only drove it in D for a little because I really don't want to mess it up more. I'm still driving it right now but I'm sticking to M mode until I can resolve this issue. I'm thinking it might be a bad valve body but I still don't understand why it's so terrible in only D mode. Thoughts?
 
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