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Very good points. These cars run higher coolant temps to begin with, hence the wear on the plastic components in the cooling system.

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2002 e46 320 sedan / sport package 2 / m54b22 / steptronic
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Yas they are, it all depends and i wont bother speak about it, it would take forever.
 

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I don't own one, but this looks like it would get the job done for the occasional user with a much lower price.
Wow, I like that even better!

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Hard coolant pipes times 2. The O-rings on one pipe deformed due to the bore not being clean enough. Removing and re-installing the intake was easier the second time. Now I'm just waiting for a new disa O-ring. I recommend pressure testing before re-assembly. I re-used O-rings from the old pipes and they seem to be holding. IDK if the deformed ones would have sealed had I re-used them..


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Hard coolant pipes times 2. The O-rings on one pipe deformed due to the bore not being clean enough. Removing and re-installing the intake was easier the second time. Now I'm just waiting for a new disa O-ring. I recommend pressure testing before re-assembly. I re-used O-rings from the old pipes and they seem to be holding. IDK if the deformed ones would have sealed had I re-used them

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Was this preventative or had yours started to leak (the original ones)? Did yours break inside the block/head and did you have to fish out the remaining pieces?

I'm dreading this job...

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Was this preventative or had yours started to leak (the original ones)? Did yours break inside the block/head and did you have to fish out the remaining pieces?

I'm dreading this job...

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This was preventative but you can see that the old pipes weren't long for this world. I dreaded this job too but having a friend that did injector O-rings on his car and a few things on his dad's 3L e39 was a big help. His memory was a big help too. I marked all the electrical connectors and re-installed fasteners wherever I could so I wouldn't lose them.
 

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2001 325ci
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driver side rear window non-operational for a few days. was ready to remove motor (per real oem called drive, vent window) and maybe i can optest with power probe. motor itself can cost ~$200 depending on where u get. i decided to check window switch first to see if i can diagnose from there (switch or motor problem) switch is ~$70, much cheaper if that’s the problem. problem is not sure how to check switch operations, switches from left and right not interchangeable. nothing i can do but clean with crc electronics cleaner. copious amount of crc, and rear window worked again, albeit worked (noticed even before motor quiting) in different direction, push to close instead of push to open. i’m happy with miracle in a bottle.
 

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I am finally getting o the end of my bodywork on my car shown.This was done with shop mixed rattle cans, some panels are spot repairs whilst others like the front wings and bumpers were removed and painted due to rust.I did the job on the street and i am very happy with it mostly as i learnt alot.I also bought and tried a device for removing dimples in panels and the results are good enough as i am not trying for show room condition,anyway i spent about $500 on materials to get this result.The front badge was deleted as well.
909477
 

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Hard coolant pipes times 2. The O-rings on one pipe deformed due to the bore not being clean enough. Removing and re-installing the intake was easier the second time. Now I'm just waiting for a new disa O-ring. I recommend pressure testing before re-assembly. I re-used O-rings from the old pipes and they seem to be holding. IDK if the deformed ones would have sealed had I re-used them..


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Can i ask how long it took you as its on my urgent to do list.
 

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This was preventative but you can see that the old pipes weren't long for this world. I dreaded this job too but having a friend that did injector O-rings on his car and a few things on his dad's 3L e39 was a big help. His memory was a big help too. I marked all the electrical connectors and re-installed fasteners wherever I could so I wouldn't lose them.
Sounds like nothing broke for you, that's my biggest worry. I've had the manifold off before so I'm comfortable getting to them.

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Can i ask how long it took you as its on my urgent to do list.
Mind you I don't work very fast at my age and had a few hours in it before my friend came over. I had the airbox, maf, disa, IVC, cabin filter housing out and the plugs all marked. Another 4-5 hours on top of that made it like 6-7 total. I didn't do a lot in the 4-5 hours but was an extra set of hands and tool gofer lol. It did fire on the first try which impressed me, got some lights on the dash but they will go away before I'm out of the driveway. Just from having the battery disconnected.

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Sounds like nothing broke for you, that's my biggest worry. I've had the manifold off before so I'm comfortable getting to them.

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The only things that broke were the ends of the pipes. Used my soldering gun to melt the plastic and pick tools to retrieve it. I just wish we had used the dremel in the bores the first time.

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The only things that broke were the ends of the pipes. Used my soldering gun to melt the plastic and pick tools to retrieve it. I just wish we had used the dremel in the bores the first time.

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That's actually a good tip, I saw others using a 3/4 tap and then treading a bolt in. I probably wouldn't use a Dremel too likely to knick the bore. Bit some sacraficial solder tips sounds like a very decent idea.

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