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You don't like your vehicle much, do you? Those have been around in the powersports industry for a long time. They do NOT filter as well (small particles) as a proper quality paper or fleece filter.

Opinions vary.

We used to run Canton sandwich-style filters with similar filtering on late-model stock cars revving to 8000-plus rpm. They were never an issue.
 

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View attachment 796737

Wasn’t thrilled about the length of the new cable, seemed way to long. Had to get creative upon installation to make sure it wasn’t getting too close to the headers. Still, it appears too close

View attachment 796739

You just have to get creative with the additional length. Spinning or bending the ends a little should get you all the room you need. As is, it looks too close.
 

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FCABs are done. Meyle replacements went in just fine. Original OE bushing removal was more difficult than YouTube suggested they might be. Installation was straight forward and test drive showed noticeable improvement. Having the car on jack stands allowed an undercarriage inspection, and as a 100k mile Florida car, everything is looking good.
 

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Twisted off the radiator drain plug head. Got the plug out so I’ll finish the water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, and hose replacements, but refill looks like a Tuesday thing now since none of the three nearest dealers stock the plug.

Update: Twist stripped the head on the tensioner bolt trying to get the belt back on. Will do belts and pulleys now since I’m going to have to wait anyway. FCP Euro here I come!
 

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Tensioner/idler pulleys and new belts are in. New Bimmerworld silicone hoses, and finished expansion tank install. Radiator wasn’t leaking so I bypassed that. Bad idea. Looks like by breaking hoses loose, removing/installing the fan, and jostling the expansion tank during removal and installation, I compromised the seal on the left plastic tank. Now a steady drip is clearly evident, and while I can’t see the exact location of the leak, the rest of the new connections are solid.

Entertaining an aluminum CSF replacement. Anyone do this already? It’s a bit larger than the OE. The car isn’t tracked but I am in FL.
 

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Ok, thanks to @BaliDawg instilling a little confidence, have updated my other E46, the 325CI. All modules are running latest bits. I've applied both the temp and speedo fixes. @Archbid has a new wheel on the way. Just a couple of paint fixes and this E46 has been saved except for suspension, which is total dog poo. i'll keep it factory, but struts matter, ya'll! Now that I have a Ci, and sedan, now on the hunt for a touring and a M. all in red. I should have bought that individual that was up last week.
Check thedrivenexchange.com website. There’s a supercharged E46 M3 up for sale. $13k earlier today with 3 days to go.
 

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Oil change, LM engine flush, and a new fuel filter.

I also replaced the missing oil plug access door, but I found out the female hardware on the lower engine cover was missing, so I had to reach into my surplus race car hardware stash that I haven’t needed in years. I tried realoem.com for the correct piece but my search was inconclusive. If some knows the part #, please share. I prefer to have the correct hardware if possible.
 

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Got an airbag recall notice yesterday for my 2000 323it that was totalled 6.5 years ago.

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Manufacturers and dealers aren’t notified of total loss vehicles, at least in the US. I still get service reminders even though I told my dealer my car was kaput.

At least you didn’t die from the faulty airbag in the accident. That’s a plus.
 

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Voltage regulator replaced. Local import parts guy in town had one in stock (Bosch dealer), and it saved me $150. Brushes were well worn at 115K miles, but the alternator itself seems fine. Did self-test to confirm now running at 14.2v at idle.
 

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Replaced p/s reservoir. Return hose was fine, but inlet hose had hardened around the nipple and had to be trimmed off. Luckily it had enough slack for me to trim 3/4” off the hose and still make it work. For now. I’ll be ordering up a hose to change out in the near future.

Pro tip: Do both at the same time.
 

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The more aggressive the pad type, the more aggressive the bedding in process, generally speaking. Always follow manufacturer guidelines, of course.

I’m of the hard braker type of driver, so I usually use ‘sport’ or ‘street/track’ pads. Brand instructions vary, but generally follow a pattern of repeated stops from 60-40, 60-30, 60-20, and 60-10, with some stops repeated. The idea is to ramp up the pad temperature to “de-gas” the bonding agents used in manufacturing, along with bedding the pad surface to the rotor. Then you want a cool down period without any brake application, if possible. My tactic is to do this outside the city, and late at night, and I use the trip back home as the cool down period. It’s always worked well for me.
 
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