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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone tell me where I can get some sturdy cv boot clamps? Other than the oem. Also any specific grease the axles need?

02 330xi
 

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You need the clamp binding tool and the skill of a neurosurgeon to swap 'em on car. I went lazy when both inner boots started seeping grease from the clamps. The indi shop used some synthetic lube almost very heavy, sticky oil. New clamps and all four OE boots out the door for around $350. A month later I spotted a leak at the clamp. The shop guarantees the job so back she went. Better them than me, pulling the axles is a pain.
 

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No joke. Several on here have been running with these instead of fighting with the regular CV clamps requiring the crimp tool. The OEM clamps for the CV joints are notorious for slacking off over time alowing the grease to escape.

I have them on the inner CV boots (large end) since the fall with no noticeable driveline vibrations. Best of all--NO LEAKS since.
 

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Agree with GCoop, I am running these too. Much easier and able to get under and periodically tighten should the need arise. Just lube the rubber surface with thin film of oil first so that you don't scar the rubber when tightening the clamp. Thumbs up to this one.
 

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I got the kit from Pelican Parts, includes boot, clamp and grease

31-60-7-507-403-M60 $21.75

Axle Boot Kit, For Front Inner, 2 Per Car, 325Xi (2001-04), 330Xi
(2001-04), Each, Brand: GKN Loebro

Got the Tool from Napa ( CV Pliers $ 30 ) for the clamp and do the job myself.

Not a problem after 6 months :thumbsup:
 

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Great, Ivan pulls it off and my Indi failed claiming "you got to get 'em crazy tight to seal".

Gotta ask though, you had to pull the axles, how much of a bugger is that?

And who knew worm screw clamps would work? Hope they're stainless.
 

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I don't understand how you guys can get away with just messing around with boots and grease. I have noticeable play in my axles after 15k miles or so.
 

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Great, Ivan pulls it off and my Indi failed claiming "you got to get 'em crazy tight to seal".

Gotta ask though, you had to pull the axles, how much of a bugger is that?

And who knew worm screw clamps would work? Hope they're stainless.
Yes, I had to take the axles out, and to be honest, when you look the Bentley Book or the DYI's, looks more complicated that it is.
 

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I just did a boot swap about a month and a half ago. Tried using the new clamps in the kits for Pelican... after a 1,000 mile trip over the next weekend, inner boots on both sides were spewing a lot. I have since cut them off and put on hose clamps for just the inner...... and no leaks. The crimp clamps are a joke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just did a boot swap about a month and a half ago. Tried using the new clamps in the kits for Pelican... after a 1,000 mile trip over the next weekend, inner boots on both sides were spewing a lot. I have since cut them off and put on hose clamps for just the inner...... and no leaks. The crimp clamps are a joke.
where can I get the grease?
 

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the outer joints (at the hub) require a heavier, cv-specific moly based grease. Im pretty sure you can use any off the shelf "cv joint grease" or of course use whatever comes with the boot kit if you replace the boots. The inners require a different grease that i have not been able to find outside of buying the kit. the inner joint is a tripod roller design, and the needle bearings need a thinner grease to function properly. I wouldnt use a moly-based grease on the inners. Anyone ever come across tripod joint grease that would be suitable for these axles?
 

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GKN kit worked for me

I got the kit from Pelican Parts, includes boot, clamp and grease

31-60-7-507-403-M60 $21.75

Axle Boot Kit, For Front Inner, 2 Per Car, 325Xi (2001-04), 330Xi
(2001-04), Each, Brand: GKN Loebro

Got the Tool from Napa ( CV Pliers $ 30 ) for the clamp and do the job myself.

Not a problem after 6 months :thumbsup:
This "standard" method also worked well for me.

I too replaced my CV boots, both inner and outer, with GKN kits, including the clamps that require the $30 tool (Lisle tool from BavAuto). After reading all the horror stories about not being able to get the clamps tight enough, I was full of fear and trepidation. I was very pleased when I was able to tighten the clamps rock solid. The tool has 2 square holes to allow a pair of 1/2" drive tools to add extra leverage, which I used.

I did have an initial problem with the Lisle too though. The tool wouldn't open wide enough to get around the crimp on one of the large clamps. The fix was simple enough: I used a thin rat tail file to open up the slots in the tool that limited motion of the tool. Voila! It worked very well. All 4 clamps are tight and remained bone dry after 3k miles.

I'm sure the hose clamp method works fine too. I just wanted people to know that it *is* possible to have good results with the standard method.

About clamps

The GKN clamps are stoutly made with heavy-gauge steel and inspire confidence when you're crimping them under heavy pressure. They're heavier than anything I've been able to find in the auto parts stores. The GKN clamps still yielded easily to the Lisle tool (I used extensions to generate more leverage).
 

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The tool has 2 square holes to allow a pair of 1/2" drive tools to add extra leverage, which I used.

About clamps[/I][/B]
The GKN clamps are stoutly made with heavy-gauge steel and inspire confidence when you're crimping them under heavy pressure. They're heavier than anything I've been able to find in the auto parts stores. The GKN clamps still yielded easily to the Lisle tool (I used extensions to generate more leverage).
This is the key :thumbsup:
 
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