Hi. I've got a problem with long crank time before start, which seems worse the warmer the car is. When motor does start, it has weak idle, and some surging during warm up. No codes using handheld scanner. New fuel pump, and I'll check fuel pressure next (changing fuel filter this weekend). I've had an oil leak on intake side of the engine (oil dipstick O ring), and am thinking I could have a failing CPS. Ugghh! I need to get this fixed! All normal maintenance - VANOS, intake boots, DISA gasket, so on has been done.
Update - replaced fuel filter (had 42k miles on it), and car now starts instantly again. I wouldn't have believed the fuel filter could get so clogged to cause 3-5 second crank times. Thanks, JFOF, for all of your help! You recommended changing fuel filter last summer when I replaced fuel pump. Next up - smoke test to check for vac leaks.
It’s been a while, but I hope some one with good advice will see this. First off I have E39 530i . Up until recently it had been sitting in the drive way under a cover for several months. Mainly do to rack and pinion leaks. Anyways toward the end of my drive I notice it feels like it wants to stall. Praying I make it home and a quick freeway trip. I make it. Later I try a short ride where I finally did get a stall. Pull code for camshaft position sensor circuit A. $120 and a short drive later. Still not right. This time it wasn’t the CAMshaft sensor but the CRANKshaft sensor. I’ve read that crankshaft sensor is usually associated with NO start. And I’m experiencing more CAMshaft sensor issues. Loss of power,stalls. So I don’t understand what’s going on here. I can’t keep replacing these sensors at 120 a peice. So I went to my local salvage and picked up 3-4 crankshaft sensore( very easy removal). I had access to the underside so I just slithered my arm up to the starter and felt around sure enough there’s the bolt. ). I did this about 4 times. Anyways I chose a sensor. Hoped for good luck but before I desired to give it a crank I though I should finally swap out those vanos pistons I rebuilt. So that’s we’re we’re at. As I read through the forum I find few cases like mine. But people have been getting codes for either CAMshaft or crank shaft which jumped to the other when they switch one out. Also interestingly. I have also seen one or two relating there issues to the vanos rebuild. Which coincidentally happens to be the route I chose. In middle of job I over tightened the vanos blind plug severely crushing the aluminum crush washers. I’m unable to find them locally and cannot wait so I’ll be taking another quick trip to the salvage to grab some along with another 4 of each CAMshaft sensor. I hope the vanos rebuild fixes my problem. But if not I’ll be swapping out sensors till I get results. If thes don’t work idk were to go next I checked all wiring. I don’t understand how these sensors could jump around like this or how a vanos rebuild could make the difference. If anyone has any helpful information. I’d greatly appreciate it and thanks for sticking around to read
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