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...It didn't fix the problem, in fact all of the symptoms were amplified. Now it takes forever to start, misfires and stalls. Its also way down on power and sucking down gas. Tonight I decided to remove the new CPS and turn it in on warranty for another one(horror stories of bad off the shelf parts. I just finished removing it and it only took like 30 minutes. Its not that bad once you know what your doing. I am off to get a new new one and will update once it is installed.
That's why I followed everyone's advice and got new sensors from the dealer. You could have a bad sensor out of the box, or it could be a poor quality unit. I replaced both intake & exhaust sensors - it cured the driveability issue and cleared the codes.
 

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Went back to Napa and did the warranty thing, installed the new new CPS (this time it was a Mayele) and it works great. Starts easy and the ten mile drive I took was like driving a new car.

By the way: You can get OE parts through Napa, which I did but even OE parts have issues.
 

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i just followed this diy, which btw was really well done, and ive ran into some snags and need help. first when i got to the step about removing the vacuum reservoir.... i noticed there was none?!?! is that ok on certain years of the e46 (mines a 2001 325i). Second the bolt that holds on the CPS is stripped; any ideas on getting it out and/or best way to get to it.
thanks in advance for any help
 

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Changed my sensor, twice. Thought that first was bad, then got a replacement still having issues. I also have DTS and Brake lights on, from water on the wheel i guess. I dont know if they related, or not. But i have tried resetting all the codes but problem is still coming back.!!!!! How to make sure connection is ok?
 

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i just followed this diy, which btw was really well done, and ive ran into some snags and need help. first when i got to the step about removing the vacuum reservoir.... i noticed there was none?!?! is that ok on certain years of the e46 (mines a 2001 325i). Second the bolt that holds on the CPS is stripped; any ideas on getting it out and/or best way to get to it.
thanks in advance for any help
4 months too late, but my 2001 325i sedan had no vacuum reservoir either...made the job easier tho...sure you have car running after 4 months, so must've gotten bolt out. Vice grips are what I would've tried.
 

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Changed my sensor, twice. Thought that first was bad, then got a replacement still having issues. I also have DTS and Brake lights on, from water on the wheel i guess. I dont know if they related, or not. But i have tried resetting all the codes but problem is still coming back.!!!!! How to make sure connection is ok?
I have the same problem, I just changed the CPS but it didnt help, Going to order a new one today and see if that fixes the problem. By the way my DTS and brake lights are both on and yellow and I cant seem to reset them. Any ideas?
 

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Just finished this job myself. Apparently once the car goes into limp-home mode the only way it's coming out is to have the DME cleared and the adaptations reset. A handheld scanner simply can't clear those. I replaced the sensor, limped my way to the local shop, had them rest the DME and adaptation. Once done it fired up immediately, the DCS light didn't stay on, and it's been running like a champ ever since. It seems that if you get a SES code for the CPS but don't get put into limp-home mode you can just replace the sensor and go...
 

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is the sensor in the same location on 99-00 2.8L engines?
 

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Im hoping some one can tell me something that will make my life easier.
I've can get my hand down to the CPS and bought a #5 allen key but the bolt just won't budge, my hand is raw and I can't get the damn bolt off. Is there a trick I'm missing?

I was planning on re-using the bolt for the new CPS too as I bought mine online and only got the o-ring and cps no bolt but I think I'll get a new one because the head looks like its getting chewed up and I haven't even gotten it out! Does anyone have the part number for this?
 

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Im hoping some one can tell me something that will make my life easier.
I've can get my hand down to the CPS and bought a #5 allen key but the bolt just won't budge, my hand is raw and I can't get the damn bolt off. Is there a trick I'm missing?

I was planning on re-using the bolt for the new CPS too as I bought mine online and only got the o-ring and cps no bolt but I think I'll get a new one because the head looks like its getting chewed up and I haven't even gotten it out! Does anyone have the part number for this?
Mine was stripped and I had to chip away some of the plastic off of the old sensor to be able to get vice grips on it, maybe it'll work for u too.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

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I tried to use a standard allen wrench from the top of the engine and could not get the leverage to unscrew it. I also tried using a built in socket to allen wrench attachment using my small ratchet set but couldn't fit the attachment in over the screw because it was too wide. I didn't remove the car's under metal plate but I don't see how that would help me gain access.

Can someone advise me how I could unscrew the CRANKshaft bolt please?
 

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I'm going to try to do it from underneath the car today after work. Tried from the top with an Allen key and a bit with a little ratchet but the damn thing won't budge.

I'll let you guys know how it goes

Sent from my SGH-I317M using BimmerApp mobile app
 

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Been awhile since i updated. It took forever but the bolt finally came out, almost snapped on me had to use an extractor. I have replaced the sensor with a new oem Siemens one from ECS but I am still throwing code P0335 and I have my CEL and DSC lights still on along with my Brake Pad light but I think that's unrelated to this issue.

The good thing is that I was getting a bunch of misfire codes prior to changing the sensor now I only have 1 code. I tried to clear the code with my scan tool but it comes back after I start or drive it. The DSC light stays on when I clear codes.

It also has to be cranked for quite awhile before it will start. Battery, Alternator are new.

Anybody have any advice?
 

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Been awhile since i updated. It took forever but the bolt finally came out, almost snapped on me had to use an extractor. I have replaced the sensor with a new oem Siemens one from ECS but I am still throwing code P0335 and I have my CEL and DSC lights still on along with my Brake Pad light but I think that's unrelated to this issue.

The good thing is that I was getting a bunch of misfire codes prior to changing the sensor now I only have 1 code. I tried to clear the code with my scan tool but it comes back after I start or drive it. The DSC light stays on when I clear codes.

It also has to be cranked for quite awhile before it will start. Battery, Alternator are new.

Anybody have any advice?
I had to have the local shop reset that code and clear adaptations, a simple code scanner can't do it. The DSC light comes on to let you know you're in limp home mode. That'll go away once it's really cleared. The long crank went away too.
 

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what the life of the crankshaft sensor? i have 145k miles and never swapped out the sensor, and i am thinking about swapping out all the vacuum hoses and elbows.
 

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what the life of the crankshaft sensor? i have 145k miles and never swapped out the sensor, and i am thinking about swapping out all the vacuum hoses and elbows.
Haven't read enough posts about them failing to notice a trend personally. Mine failed at 194,000 miles.
 

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Could someone please point me in the right direction and let me know what else i need to remove to get to this elusive crankshaft sensor. I do see a small canister mounted horizontally to the engine but the single bolt isn't clear. Here's some images showing where i am at. Seems like going in from the bottom would of been easier. Thanks in advance.


http://i.imgur.com/KojBFiu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZrLXf0P.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MlCxvh9.jpg

Update: Mission accomplished, had so little space to work with trying to undo that canister nut, so i decided to lift the car and went through the bottom. So much easier, but I have no regrets, for I learned allot through the process and replaced some intake hoses while i was in there. Thanks for this thread!
 

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Hossman - I replaced my sensor by removing the metal under plate(15 minutes) which provided easier but still difficult access to the sensor. You'll have to use a flashlight and look very carefully for it as it is hard to see. Try feeling around for it from the top or use a small mirror. From picture the sensor is located to the right of the bottom intake. (bottom big round thing) You didn't have to remove the DISA. There are great pictures at the start of this post you should reference.
 

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I appreciate the note BlackRain and that's what I exactly did via the bottom. It's mostly a feel job, took me 20 minutes to find it and it did require a dme reset after the new crankshaft sensor was installed.

I don't advise anyone to do this crankshaft install job from the top, unless you have to and want to inspect the condition of your intake hoses and other equipment. If your going that route might as well check your DISA valve and at the same time take advantage of this situation and clean your ICV and possibly your throttle body. My intake hoses had never been changed and removing them I discovered there were tears, in addition the DISA valve pin was a 1/3 of an inch loose, fell to the ground shortly after removal and the o-ring was flattened. I found out I had a leaky Vanos high pressure line as well, which was a simple fix after moving the power steering reservoir and a couple of connectors. So in conclusion, I replaced both intakes (lower boot & upper), installed the German Auto Solutions DISA Kit, replaced the Vanos high pressure line and installed a new crankshaft sensor. It was a horror show waiting to happen down there ;) and I didn't expect all this at 76k miles, though the car is 12 years old.
 
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