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theres no need to jack the car, everything can be done from the top. and it sucks if you have large hands. ok, first you wanna remove the air box and maf sensor. then take out the adjuster unit, its that little black box on the side of the intake plentum, its only held on by 2 screws and you can pull it strait out. you also have to het all those partitions out that are around the master cylinder. there r diy's for this search for intake elbow removal. there are pix for how to do all this stuff. you need to remove the intake elbow, it comes apart in 2 pieces, you dont need to disconnect the vacuum tubes from the first piece just move it off to the side. the part that connects to the throttle body is harder to get out cuz the screw that tightens it down is really hard to reach. now that you have all of that out. look down and you will see a plastic canister with a vacuum tube going in one side and out the other. this is actually what controls the exhaust flap in your muffler. its only mounted by one nut. take the nut off and the sensor is right under. here r the pix


here r arrows pointing to the two screw holes that hold the adjuster unit and the vacuum canister thing is circled, i had already dismounted it.


here the vacuum thingy is pushed over to the side and the cole for the sensor is circled. the sensor is actually mounted with the cylander portion facing almost strait down. realoem.com has it pointing horizontal into the side of the block. if u notice a broken hose, i used that to fix a vacuum leak i had. the piece leading to the idle air control valve had dry rotted.


here is the sensor mounted, now all u gotta do is put everything back!

its not too hard, it took me about an hour by myself the second time i did it. you should have one of those little super bright led flashlights on hand. the first time i did this i was stumped for almost 4 hours and then my friend showed up with the flashlight and i found the sensor in like a min. thats all i can think of.
 

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Crankshaft Sensor Replacement

I spent about 3 hours getting to the Crankshaft Sensor deep in the engine cavity. When trying to remove the sensor, the plastic top broke off and now the sensor and metal plate that holds the sensor in place is stuck. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the sensor out. I have a 2001 BMW 330ci with 120,000 miles on it. I'm thinking that is the original sensor and it's locked in there pretty good. I was thinking trying to get a screw drive in there and pry underneath the metal tab, or maybe some vice grips to see if I can get it to turn. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Thanks for the great picture. It is important to note that we are talking about the M54 engine here (325 or 330) in the e46. There are other engines (earlier, I think) that are different as to CPS location.

I still have the question of whether you can get to from bottom of car. Looks like it is below starter, so that is good, but may be just above crossmember or steering rack or something preventing access.

Also, anyone reuse their o-ring? Guess I need to pick one up at dealer. AutoZone didn't provide with their CPS.

BTW, the CPS from AutoZone says Siemens (OEM supplier) right on it and appears to have the BMW logo scratched off the part...same OEM part...$56 vs $116 retail at dealer.
 

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Welcome :hi: My pic came from an M54.

I think you can definitely get to it from the bottom...remove the reinforcement plate and that gives you access to a lot of things--even the post cats (TIS talks about removing the exhaust--not necessary at all for post cats). However, what might get into your way with getting a hex socket is the starter's body. You'll probably have to go the allen key route and as for removing the vacuum reservoir, you'll have to do that too, but as BMW_Stu mentioned, it is just one bolt holding that onto another bracket. You'll probably have to do some acrobatics as I have noticed with having to replace a few items in tight spots that is hard to get leverage.

I would not reuse your old O-ring. Just get another one--a buck or two is not worth your headache going back in to fix a leak.

Siemens is the OE supplier...most of these plug into the engine sensors are made by Siemens. The oil level sensor is by Hella.

When I was replacing the radiator and expansion tank, I also noticed that the BMW logo was shaved off of it. Funny how these guys sell the same thing but it's the logo and a sticker that drives up the price ridiculously.

The steering column should be fine. It might get in the way but if you unbolt it, be prepared to have blue threadlocker since they use that on the bolts. Also, I cannot quite recall if threadlocker is used on the bolt holding in the sensor for the crankshaft. I'll have to double check my pics. I do know they used threadlocker for the intake camshaft position sensor though.
 

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Great, thanks.

I have a sedan, so no reiforcing plate, only a plastic splash sheild and the triangular tube reinforcement.

What type of bolt is this? Your pic seems to show a Torqx, and RealOEM seems to show a hex, and you mention an allen wrench, so....suppose they can all be different depending on which of three plants and when the car was made. AutoZone printout shows to torque to 4.5-5.5 ft-lbs for whatevery that's worth.

Any others who have done from bottom care to comment please?

thanks,

Bill
 

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Great, thanks.

I have a sedan, so no reiforcing plate, only a plastic splash sheild and the triangular tube reinforcement.

What type of bolt is this? Your pic seems to show a Torqx, and RealOEM seems to show a hex, and you mention an allen wrench, so....suppose they can all be different depending on which of three plants and when the car was made. AutoZone printout shows to torque to 4.5-5.5 ft-lbs for whatevery that's worth.
It's a hex, you can clearly see it a sides of the hex key for the socket before it plugs into the bolt head. It's a hex #5. Yours could possibly be a torx, I have only seen it once where BMW did the switcheroo from hex to torx bolt, which was on the ABS pulse sensor for the back wheels. I have been replacing any bolts and nuts that I undo on this car.

I'll get another pic posted of the sensor without the socket in it later tonight.
 

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When I dropped my transmission to change the clutch I made sure I had a brand new crank sensor from my dealer in my hands. It is in one he'll of a location, but with the transmission out it it's super easy to change that crank sensor from underneath . Just a tip.
 

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When I dropped my transmission to change the clutch I made sure I had a brand new crank sensor from my dealer in my hands. It is in one he'll of a location, but with the transmission out it it's super easy to change that crank sensor from underneath . Just a tip.
I wonder how hard it is to get to with transmission in? Is crossmember or steering rack in way?

I would prefer not to put car up on ramps and remove splash guard to find out if someone on here has done it on an M54 motor in a sedan from the bottom.

I'll go in from the top, but rather go in from below if can avoid removing all that stuff.
 

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I've got a question. I get my Check Engine Lights On and after I run test at AutoZone that readers shows "P0639 Camshaft Position Sensor"
So I bought new intake and exhaust sensors. Cost me $160 total at NAPA. At first I replaced exhaust one. After install I started engine and It last for maybe 4-8 seconds and than RPM went down like car is chocking. Exactly the same acting as with old exhaust sensor. So right after I replaced intake CPS and I thought I was all set. After I turn my key I had same situation. In both cases nothing helped and I still have my car in the same condition as before:( I'm very upset.

So what am I doing now? What If I replace crankshaft sensor? Would that solve the problem? And I wonder why reader in AutoZone says "Camshaft" and not a "Crankshaft".
Does anyone had same problem???
 

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Nice thread - but what symptoms do I have to experience in order to warrant this R&R? Assuming no codes are being thrown! Right now I'm experiencing long cranks at start-up and all of the fuel pump, filter and pump relay are new..
 

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I've got a question. I get my Check Engine Lights On and after I run test at AutoZone that readers shows "P0639 Camshaft Position Sensor"
So I bought new intake and exhaust sensors. Cost me $160 total at NAPA. At first I replaced exhaust one. After install I started engine and It last for maybe 4-8 seconds and than RPM went down like car is chocking. Exactly the same acting as with old exhaust sensor. So right after I replaced intake CPS and I thought I was all set. After I turn my key I had same situation. In both cases nothing helped and I still have my car in the same condition as before:( I'm very upset.

So what am I doing now? What If I replace crankshaft sensor? Would that solve the problem? And I wonder why reader in AutoZone says "Camshaft" and not a "Crankshaft".
Does anyone had same problem???

I realize that your fault code showed the camshaft sensor, but your symptoms also sound like your Idle Control Valve. Pull it out and give it a good cleaning and it may fix your issues.
Just my 2c.
 

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Nice thread - but what symptoms do I have to experience in order to warrant this R&R? Assuming no codes are being thrown! Right now I'm experiencing long cranks at start-up and all of the fuel pump, filter and pump relay are new..
^^^^ :banghead:

Does a failing crankshaft sensor throw a code? Somebody! :hi:
 

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Just in case this may help someone else. One night on a long drive, low fuel, felt something happen, enginer started sounding odd, losing power. Car would run, but had difficulty starting (long crank period) and ran sluggish. I pulled the code, P0339 crankshaft position sensor fault. I purchased a new crankshaft position sensor from a BMW dealership w/ my BMW CCA discount, thinking I was safe. I replaced the part, accessed it from the top, took a while and was painful due to large arms and hands. Cleared the codes and started my car. It was better, but still not right. I drove it for a little while, no improvement. Finally just took it to the dealership, turns out the new crankshaft position sensor they sold to me was faulty. I just had the dealership replace it b/c I wasn't going to go through all that again, what if the new, new one was faulty?! They didn't charge me for the part, since I had the original box and receipt with me. Nice of them, hunh!

So, if you replace the crankshaft position sensor, clear the fault codes and it still isn't running right, there's a real possibility that the new part could be faulty. I've read of it happening to others on here several times, and it happened to me. It's not BMW's issue, it's a Siemens quality control issue, they make the actual part.
 
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