[Sapote]

Anyone know if Febi-Bilstein (upper boot) and Rein (lower boot) will fit just fine? They're half the price of BMW brand intake, and look the same size.

They are rubber tubes and so with a little handy they should fit OK.

 

[Braznuklz]

I had gotten an upper and lower from Napa auto parts, and both ended up being too small, or not fitting on the holes correctly. I'm guessing they made a "one size fits all" but with the 330, the tubes are a bit bigger. So I had to return them. Just don't wanna end up back there again. I ordered the febi and rein, gotta wait for it to come in. I believe rein is OEM, not sure about febi.

Been almost 2 months since I've driven the car, but better I fix as much as I can now, before it leaves me on the side of the road or something. I appreciate your constant help Sapote!

Random question, is it worth installing a subwoofer in the trunk? I've read some people can barely hear theirs because of how well insulated the trunk is. I have two 12" subs in a box with a 1000w amp already, which I think would be fairly loud, but I'm not sure. I have the HK sound setup too, so not sure if the added subwoofer would make a ton of difference.

 

[Braznuklz]

Replaced the upper and lower intake boots with Rein and Febi, they fit snuggly. However, turning the car on still gives misfires on 2 3 4 5, and a new code, 124 variable suction system. RPM now get to 672 before misfiring happens. I twisted off the fuel pressure cap and fuel started coming out. Maybe there's something wrong with the fuel rail? I was trying to see if any air bubbles would pop out, and I did see small ones, but couldn't tell if that's normal or a difference in pressure. I'll smoke test again and see if there's anywhere else. This chase has me tired as hell.

In other news, figured out my amp somehow went out. Followed someone's words on here about getting any e46/4 HK Amp, and didn't work. So anyone that reads this, get the specific part number for the amp. My part number has an extra digit (0), but getting another one with the same numbers, just one less digit, worked fine.

 

[Braznuklz]

Quick update, pressed a flathead screwdriver against the schrader valve on the fuel rail, fuel gushed up, and then the piece I pressed with the flathead broke off. With it leaking, does this mean I need new injection valve?

Part 13537546245

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts 3' E46 330i Valves/Pipes of fuel injection system

www.realoem.com

 

[Sapote]

With it leaking, does this mean I need new injection valve?

Add a fuel-compatible rubber seal to the valve cap and cap the valve shut.

 

[Braznuklz]

Called a mechanic over and he found the 1st and 6th cylinders are getting signal from the car's computer, but the 2,3,4,5 cylinders are not getting signal. I'm going to try to get my DME back to the original firmware, before I updated it to 2022's version. If that doesn't work, I may pick up a used DME and program it to my key. Any suggestions are welcome. Hopefully this thread helps someone haha

 

[Braznuklz]

Tried updating the DME to the latest version again, and it's already on the latest version (7571613). INPA has always given me a version mismatch warning, but I didn't think much of it until now. My hardware number is 7572342, whereas the assembly identification number is 7571613. Not sure if these are supposed to match? I've updated a few times (with inputting VIN) to ensure it completely programs and doesn't fail. Maybe I need to downgrade back to my previous version?

 

[Braznuklz]

Hi there, I had a mechanic come over after months of me trying to diagnose misfires (see here). He determined the first and sixth coils are receiving signal to fire, but not two three four and five. Checked the spark plugs and 1 and 6 are burnt black, 2-5 look sparkly clean and looked like the fuel injectors did their job. I checked the ports on the DME, and they're all pretty clean (no oil residue wicking up into it).

I just replaced the DME and Fuel Injector relays (sky blue and white green) and it slightly fixed the issue. I used to get misfires on all 4 cylinders at once around 640RPM, now I'm just getting misfires on cylinders sporadically, roughly around 800RPM. It also takes the check engine light a bit longer to turn on. I've checked and replaced all 5 fuses in the engine fuse box.

Checked live data with a scan tool. I rev to about 3000RPM and let it drop, and the spark adv goes from about ~20 to -4.

I read that the pins on the last (furthest right) plug on the DME, send signals to the ignition coils to fire. Is there a way to check that the DME is sending a signal to fire? Is there another fuse or relay that could be faulty which is causing these cylinders to misfire? Ground issue?

Thank you guys, appreciate it.

 

[Sapote]

It is a very long thread already, but it’s not clear that did you remove the intake manifold (to replace CCV ) or not?

 

[Braznuklz]

It is a very long thread already, but it’s not clear that did you remove the intake manifold (to replace CCV ) or not?

I did not, I just worked around it. I appreciate your responses.

I'm guessing it could be the crankshaft and/or camshaft sensor. I replaced my camshaft sensor with a used OEM one so it's possible it was on its way out. I ordered new sensors which weren't too expensive, so we'll see how it plays out.

 

[Sapote]

I did not, I just worked around it. I appreciate your responses.

I'm guessing it could be the crankshaft and/or camshaft sensor. I replaced my camshaft sensor with a used OEM one so it's possible it was on its way out. I ordered new sensors which weren't too expensive, so we'll see how it plays out.

It's so strange that engine was running fine until replacing the CCV but not removing the intake, then so many parts went bad, including the brake booster jet pump. You plugged the 2-pin connectors wrong, then it seems this caused short circuit and burned a 30A DME fuse, then many cylinders misfired after that. You even changed the DME and no joy.

I read that the pins on the last (furthest right) plug on the DME, send signals to the ignition coils to fire. Is there a way to check that the DME is sending a signal to fire? Is there another fuse or relay that could be faulty which is causing these cylinders to misfire? Ground issue?

The DME 9pin connector has 6 pins to trigger the coils to fire the sparks, in this order from #1 to 6 cylinder:
3,2,1,9,8,7. Every time the signal on these pins changed from 12v to 0v, the plug fired the spark. So you can check the pin activity by using an LED test lamp, or a DVM to measure from the pin to chassis ground.

 

[Braznuklz]

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. That something shorted (maybe that brown ignition coil ground wire that was all twisted up?) And everything along that electrical line just got fried, or at least had the wrong voltage which caused it to be faulty. Electrical isn't my strong suit so all a guess. I was pretty surprised that the sucking jet pump on the brake booster was bad just from that, but maybe all these parts were already on their way out, and this just pushed them past their limits.

I'll definitely try that out and see what I find. If the DME doesn't send the signal for those cylinders, I'd think it could be the DME is faulty, or it's not getting the right information from the sensors, thus it doesn't fire. The sensors should be cheaper and easier to replace than getting a DME and reprogramming it to my car. If the DME is sending the signal to fire, then I'll be pretty dang confused as to what's preventing the ignition coil from taking that signal at the plug.

This has been a tough nut to crack, thanks for bringing a hammer Sapote 👍

 

[Sapote]

Every time the signal on these pins changed from 12v to 0v, the plug fired the spark. So you can check the pin activity by using an LED test lamp, or a DVM to measure from the pin to chassis ground.

It should say “changed from 0v to 12v”

 

[Sapote]

If the DME is sending the signal to fire, then I'll be pretty dang confused as to what's preventing the ignition coil from taking that signal at the plug.

Then a intermittent cam sensor can cause bad ignition timing and misfired. If

 

[Braznuklz]

Swapped out the intake cam sensor, and it sounded a slight bit better.

Was able to find the crankshaft position sensor, but was not able to unscrew the screw. I'm gonna need a smaller Allen to fit it in there. Maybe an impact would help too.
Anyway, I unplugged the plug and the plug was so covered in oil I couldn't see the electrical contacts. I sprayed electronic cleaner on it until I saw all 3 gold connectors inside the plug. I eventually gave up trying to unscrew the 5mm allen bolt on the sensor, and plugged it back in. I started the car to see if there were any differences and it sounded smooth, with RPM staying relatively steady, no check engine light either. After about 10 seconds, the RPM kinda fluctuated a bit and then check engine light came on again.

So I think I'm at least on the right path with the crankshaft sensor.

I tried unplugging the exhaust cam sensor, but no luck. I've done it at a junkyard and it was a piece of cake, not sure why mine doesn't want to come off. I tried electronic cleaner since it looked like maybe oil was caked on it, but still didn't budge. I don't think this is the main issue (if an issue at all) but still wanted to see if the plug was the same deal as the crankshaft plug.

 

[Sapote]

I unplugged the plug and the plug was so covered in oil I couldn't see the electrical contacts. I sprayed electronic cleaner on it until I saw all 3 gold connectors inside the plug.

Aha, if these 3 pins are covered with much oil that you couldn't see the pins, then why a little wicked oil at the DME connector pins caused people to loose sleep?

I eventually gave up trying to unscrew the 5mm allen bolt on the sensor,

It is fairly easy if you do it right. Search for my thread on crankshaft sensor. In a nutshell: remove the left front wheel, slide feet under the engine until your head just behind the brake and look at the fender lip, then reach up with left hand with the Allen wrench (prefer to use a 5mm bit on a ratchet instead of a L key. I removed the sensor with plug off first, then removed the plug off sensor was easier and avoid accidentally breaking the sensor if pulling the plug off while sensor installed.

 

[Braznuklz]

then why a little wicked oil at the DME connector pins caused people to loose sleep?

Not sure what you mean here? I checked the plugs at the DME, only a slight amount of oil in plug 3, so I sprayed electronic cleaner and it's all clean now. I'll double check again since I did that last week.

Removing the wheel would definitely be helpful. I basically followed what you just said (I also took the 13mm nut off the vacuum tank to give myself more room), I could get the L key on but somehow couldn't get more than one turn in. I tried a 5mm Allen bit and for whatever reason it wouldn't fit. Maybe my angle was bad though. I'll try my luck again when it's a dry day outside. I unplugged the connector first since it was easier to do, which is how I saw it be so covered in oil. I wouldn't be surprised if the sensor itself is leaking.

I'm really hoping this is the fix. I haven't driven the car in almost 3 months!

 

[Sapote]

I could get the L key on but somehow couldn't get more than one turn in. I tried a 5mm Allen bit and for whatever reason it wouldn't fit.

This makes no sense, as the bolt head doesn't know which is the L key or the Allen bit. Clean the bolt head hole first with a small screw or toothpick.

 

[Sapote]

I could get the L key on but somehow couldn't get more than one turn in.

Don't insert the shorter end as the longer end will hit the block during a turn. So insert the long end in the hole (you know which hole) and turn (you might need to work at the gym for strong fingers). I used a small extension tube on the short end to turn.

 

[Braznuklz]

This makes no sense, as the bolt head doesn't know which is the L key or the Allen bit. Clean the bolt head hole first with a small screw or toothpick.

Yeah I'm not quite sure why. I put the Allen key next to the 5mm and it looks the same, although the bit looks a little flared out so could be a quality control issue. Either way, I'll get the gunk off. By the feel of it, there's quite a bit. Inside the plug too, not surprising though. I'm also gonna check the 5mm bit against other brands in the hardware store and ensure it's the exact same, otherwise it's useless.