Looks like it's pretty close to the terminal. A few strands look broken as well, I'm gonna try to splice it together the best I can. Thank you for the insight, I'll try to hold the wire when screwing it back in
Cranks but won't start
Jump to the most recent post.
Car cranks now, but misfires a lot.
Hi guys, my 2002 330i 137k, cranks but won't start. Here's a list of events that have transpired so far:
-Brought my running car to my dad's place to replace the CCV, since I thought it was leaking oil. I had already changed the valve cover gasket but still it leaked. Hadn't gotten to the Oil Filter Housing Gasket since the oil leak was coming from the passenger side.
-Changed out the hoses following 50skid's tutorial without removing the intake manifold. Quite a pain in the ass, but heard a snap on each hose, clipping onto the oil separator.
-Figured I may as well replace the intake Camshaft Position Sensor, since it was easy and right there, and I had some hesitation issues, where the car would take a second to pull.
-Put everything back together, except I accidentally swapped 2 two-pin electrical connectors, and plugged them into each others ports (A-B, B-A if that makes sense). One was the plug to the evap purge solenoid, and I'm not sure what the other was (it's adjacent to the oil separator, but I can't find what it's called online).
-Reversed into the driveway without issue.
-Came back later to leave for home, issues immediately, bogging, sounding like a lot of misfires (what a surprise).
-Had to turn around after a tenth of a mile, flooring it would lower RPM, and I tried flooring it for about 20-30 seconds to get it up a hill, then back down to my dad's.
-I looked up the videos and immediately recognized I plugged the plugs into the wrong ports. Took everything apart and swapped them. Tried to start, misfires.
-Starting fluid made it start briefly, then died.
-Double checked the intake boots for cracks, cleaned the idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body, double checked all the CCV connections, replaced the O ring on the dipstick tube.
-Fuel pump stopped working after trying to crank but not starting a few times. Replaced the fuel pump with one I had just in case. Fuel pump primed on key position 2. I checked fuel pressure at the valve, 60psi and dropped to about ~50.
edit saw a thread where someone had almost the same codes I did when I scanned for codes at this point:
www.e46fanatics.com
36-Main relay
68-tank ventilation valve
53-LLFS opening coil Elec.
27-LLFS Closing coil Elec.
32-secondary air valve
140-output stage failure dmtl pump
126-output stage failure dmtl valve
124-Variable jet system
-Changed all spark plugs, as they were burnt and had fuel (I believe) around the threads. No difference in starting.
-Checked all the fuses in the glove box, they looked fine. However, did not check the fuses behind that fusebox.
-Changed ignition coils, no difference in starting.
-Checked fuses in engine fuse box, couldn't get the cover to slide off, but I could see from below that all the metal in the middle of the fuses were connected, nothing blown or dark, just shiny metal (even the 20A fuse).
-Followed Bali's tutorial on updating/resetting DME, was successful in updating, cleared all codes, cranked again but no start. LFSS error was the one that came up. Not sure, but in researching, maybe something is stuck open?
-Tried checking the coils for sparks with a spark tester, but I've never used one and not sure if I'm using it correctly, as I didn't feel it connected to the ignition coil very well, and when starting the car, nothing happened (no blinking or any sign of spark).
-Started taking out the spark plugs and ignition coils, to put some oil at the bottom of each cylinder, since the cylinders are probably flooded with fuel, but it started getting over 100F outside so I figured I'd ask and go back out tomorrow morning.
I've tried following this thread as much as I can. Not sure if its a spark issue, DME/ECU issue, fuel flooding issue, or something else entirely.
Thanks for any help guys!
Car cranks now, but misfires a lot.
Hi guys, my 2002 330i 137k, cranks but won't start. Here's a list of events that have transpired so far:
-Brought my running car to my dad's place to replace the CCV, since I thought it was leaking oil. I had already changed the valve cover gasket but still it leaked. Hadn't gotten to the Oil Filter Housing Gasket since the oil leak was coming from the passenger side.
-Changed out the hoses following 50skid's tutorial without removing the intake manifold. Quite a pain in the ass, but heard a snap on each hose, clipping onto the oil separator.
-Figured I may as well replace the intake Camshaft Position Sensor, since it was easy and right there, and I had some hesitation issues, where the car would take a second to pull.
-Put everything back together, except I accidentally swapped 2 two-pin electrical connectors, and plugged them into each others ports (A-B, B-A if that makes sense). One was the plug to the evap purge solenoid, and I'm not sure what the other was (it's adjacent to the oil separator, but I can't find what it's called online).
-Reversed into the driveway without issue.
-Came back later to leave for home, issues immediately, bogging, sounding like a lot of misfires (what a surprise).
-Had to turn around after a tenth of a mile, flooring it would lower RPM, and I tried flooring it for about 20-30 seconds to get it up a hill, then back down to my dad's.
-I looked up the videos and immediately recognized I plugged the plugs into the wrong ports. Took everything apart and swapped them. Tried to start, misfires.
-Starting fluid made it start briefly, then died.
-Double checked the intake boots for cracks, cleaned the idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body, double checked all the CCV connections, replaced the O ring on the dipstick tube.
-Fuel pump stopped working after trying to crank but not starting a few times. Replaced the fuel pump with one I had just in case. Fuel pump primed on key position 2. I checked fuel pressure at the valve, 60psi and dropped to about ~50.
edit saw a thread where someone had almost the same codes I did when I scanned for codes at this point:
Issues after replacing CCV
Hello everyone, I own an E46 330XI that I ended up replacing the CCV about a month and a half ago. After I removed everything, I washed the engine bay before I put everything back on. After I installed everything back on, the car wouldnt start. My wife had a baby so I couldnt work on it for...
www.e46fanatics.com
68-tank ventilation valve
53-LLFS opening coil Elec.
27-LLFS Closing coil Elec.
32-secondary air valve
140-output stage failure dmtl pump
126-output stage failure dmtl valve
124-Variable jet system
-Changed all spark plugs, as they were burnt and had fuel (I believe) around the threads. No difference in starting.
-Checked all the fuses in the glove box, they looked fine. However, did not check the fuses behind that fusebox.
-Changed ignition coils, no difference in starting.
-Checked fuses in engine fuse box, couldn't get the cover to slide off, but I could see from below that all the metal in the middle of the fuses were connected, nothing blown or dark, just shiny metal (even the 20A fuse).
-Followed Bali's tutorial on updating/resetting DME, was successful in updating, cleared all codes, cranked again but no start. LFSS error was the one that came up. Not sure, but in researching, maybe something is stuck open?
-Tried checking the coils for sparks with a spark tester, but I've never used one and not sure if I'm using it correctly, as I didn't feel it connected to the ignition coil very well, and when starting the car, nothing happened (no blinking or any sign of spark).
-Started taking out the spark plugs and ignition coils, to put some oil at the bottom of each cylinder, since the cylinders are probably flooded with fuel, but it started getting over 100F outside so I figured I'd ask and go back out tomorrow morning.
I've tried following this thread as much as I can. Not sure if its a spark issue, DME/ECU issue, fuel flooding issue, or something else entirely.
Thanks for any help guys!
21 - 40 of 75 Posts
Same error frequency and it seems to happen at the same time. Ground cable snapped when I tried to loosen it after taking the error codes. The nut holding down the terminal won't budge. Im thinking of getting another terminal, adding it above the nut I can't get off, and adding a nut on top to hold it down. Any other ideas for getting these two separated? I tried pliers and trying to hold it and use a socket wrench for the 8mm but still won't budge.
Attachments
This pic is interesting. The stud came out with with nut when someone removed the valve cover. Instead of getting the nut off, they continued to unscrew the stud with the wire attached and twisted the wire so bad its insulator ruptured. Get the nut off the stud, then Loctite the stud to the head.
![Hood Automotive tire Finger Motor vehicle Automotive exterior]()
Don't use your teeth to remove this nut. This is an easy nut to crack: use 2 wrenches. So what exactly did you use and failed to get them loosen?
Got a wiring harness from pick n pull, installed it no problem, but same issues keep occuring. I used to get misfire B1 but that's gone away, now just misfire on carb A, on cylinders 2345. Always at the exact same time. If I have the car on for five seconds after clearing the codes, it sounds real smooth, and throws no codes. If I have it on for a few seconds past the RPM drop on idle, the CEL comes on and throws the codes. I drives to move forward, it would roll, but the brakes were hard to press and barely did much. I think the car is in limp mode? Could it be a DME or ECU thing? I'm pretty lost at this point, not sure what to do next. Maybe the fuel regulator is messed up? I can't figure out why cylinders 2345 always fail at the same time, and never 1 and 6. Any help is appreciated.
Attachments
Another update. Took out my DME and I'm guessing by these spots that I'll be needing a replacement. So do I backup this one and restore it to the new one? Do I delete EWS? Or am I wrong entirely on this DME issue?
Attachments
If anyone's following, here's another update.
Replaced the check valve/"sucking jet pump" on the brake booster. Looked inside the old one, broken for sure. Put the new one in, brakes work as they should! I can depress them. Except I'm still getting misfires on cylinders 2345. However, a new code popped up. "65 intake camshaft sensor." I did replace mine with an aftermarket one. Not sure why this code would get thrown now, but looks like I'll head to the pick n pull for an oem sensor. Not sure if that'll fix the problems? When I press the gas, rpms drop. I noticed when replacing the intake camshaft position sensor, that the vanos spring inside the solenoid was trying to come out, or was at least sticking out. Maybe this is the cause of my misfires? Not sure how to fix it or if it's even an issue.
Thanks for everyone's help so far! I wanna shout out Sapote for the brake booster idea, thank you!
Replaced the check valve/"sucking jet pump" on the brake booster. Looked inside the old one, broken for sure. Put the new one in, brakes work as they should! I can depress them. Except I'm still getting misfires on cylinders 2345. However, a new code popped up. "65 intake camshaft sensor." I did replace mine with an aftermarket one. Not sure why this code would get thrown now, but looks like I'll head to the pick n pull for an oem sensor. Not sure if that'll fix the problems? When I press the gas, rpms drop. I noticed when replacing the intake camshaft position sensor, that the vanos spring inside the solenoid was trying to come out, or was at least sticking out. Maybe this is the cause of my misfires? Not sure how to fix it or if it's even an issue.
Thanks for everyone's help so far! I wanna shout out Sapote for the brake booster idea, thank you!
Attachments
Checked the disa, replaced the whole unit only 8 months ago and already the gaskets are messed up. I ordered a fluorosilicone one and I'll replace when I get it. The unit works fine though.
Replaced the intake camshaft sensor with one from pick n pull. I replaced the vanos solenoid with one from pick n pull as well and noticed my vanos solenoid was pushed in and didn't have the little metal sticking out.
Ran the car, no more camshaft code. Still getting misfires on 2345, but it's kinda different now. Sometimes they misfire at the same time, sometimes at different times. Used to only be CARB A, but now CARB B1 shows up for some of them. When I let off the gas it sounds like the brake booster is breathing or something. Could it be the fuel filter/regulator maybe? I replaced mine with an aftermarket one about 9 months ago. I also noticed the brake pedal will be hard sometimes, and not at other times. I believe the vacuum lines for the brake booster, upper intake boot, and fuel filter, are good. Seems like I'm going down the line of things that have failed and am slowly fixing them one by one. Just gotta figure out the next one. Any ideas appreciated.
Replaced the intake camshaft sensor with one from pick n pull. I replaced the vanos solenoid with one from pick n pull as well and noticed my vanos solenoid was pushed in and didn't have the little metal sticking out.
Ran the car, no more camshaft code. Still getting misfires on 2345, but it's kinda different now. Sometimes they misfire at the same time, sometimes at different times. Used to only be CARB A, but now CARB B1 shows up for some of them. When I let off the gas it sounds like the brake booster is breathing or something. Could it be the fuel filter/regulator maybe? I replaced mine with an aftermarket one about 9 months ago. I also noticed the brake pedal will be hard sometimes, and not at other times. I believe the vacuum lines for the brake booster, upper intake boot, and fuel filter, are good. Seems like I'm going down the line of things that have failed and am slowly fixing them one by one. Just gotta figure out the next one. Any ideas appreciated.
Attachments
21 - 40 of 75 Posts
