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Cranks but won't start

3477 Views 74 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Braznuklz
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Car cranks now, but misfires a lot.

Hi guys, my 2002 330i 137k, cranks but won't start. Here's a list of events that have transpired so far:

-Brought my running car to my dad's place to replace the CCV, since I thought it was leaking oil. I had already changed the valve cover gasket but still it leaked. Hadn't gotten to the Oil Filter Housing Gasket since the oil leak was coming from the passenger side.
-Changed out the hoses following 50skid's tutorial without removing the intake manifold. Quite a pain in the ass, but heard a snap on each hose, clipping onto the oil separator.
-Figured I may as well replace the intake Camshaft Position Sensor, since it was easy and right there, and I had some hesitation issues, where the car would take a second to pull.
-Put everything back together, except I accidentally swapped 2 two-pin electrical connectors, and plugged them into each others ports (A-B, B-A if that makes sense). One was the plug to the evap purge solenoid, and I'm not sure what the other was (it's adjacent to the oil separator, but I can't find what it's called online).
-Reversed into the driveway without issue.
-Came back later to leave for home, issues immediately, bogging, sounding like a lot of misfires (what a surprise).
-Had to turn around after a tenth of a mile, flooring it would lower RPM, and I tried flooring it for about 20-30 seconds to get it up a hill, then back down to my dad's.
-I looked up the videos and immediately recognized I plugged the plugs into the wrong ports. Took everything apart and swapped them. Tried to start, misfires.
-Starting fluid made it start briefly, then died.
-Double checked the intake boots for cracks, cleaned the idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body, double checked all the CCV connections, replaced the O ring on the dipstick tube.
-Fuel pump stopped working after trying to crank but not starting a few times. Replaced the fuel pump with one I had just in case. Fuel pump primed on key position 2. I checked fuel pressure at the valve, 60psi and dropped to about ~50.

edit saw a thread where someone had almost the same codes I did when I scanned for codes at this point:
36-Main relay
68-tank ventilation valve
53-LLFS opening coil Elec.
27-LLFS Closing coil Elec.
32-secondary air valve
140-output stage failure dmtl pump
126-output stage failure dmtl valve
124-Variable jet system

-Changed all spark plugs, as they were burnt and had fuel (I believe) around the threads. No difference in starting.
-Checked all the fuses in the glove box, they looked fine. However, did not check the fuses behind that fusebox.
-Changed ignition coils, no difference in starting.
-Checked fuses in engine fuse box, couldn't get the cover to slide off, but I could see from below that all the metal in the middle of the fuses were connected, nothing blown or dark, just shiny metal (even the 20A fuse).
-Followed Bali's tutorial on updating/resetting DME, was successful in updating, cleared all codes, cranked again but no start. LFSS error was the one that came up. Not sure, but in researching, maybe something is stuck open?
-Tried checking the coils for sparks with a spark tester, but I've never used one and not sure if I'm using it correctly, as I didn't feel it connected to the ignition coil very well, and when starting the car, nothing happened (no blinking or any sign of spark).
-Started taking out the spark plugs and ignition coils, to put some oil at the bottom of each cylinder, since the cylinders are probably flooded with fuel, but it started getting over 100F outside so I figured I'd ask and go back out tomorrow morning.

I've tried following this thread as much as I can. Not sure if its a spark issue, DME/ECU issue, fuel flooding issue, or something else entirely.
Thanks for any help guys!
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Change the black fusebox under the hood
Change all 5 for new one..
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