E46 Fanatics Forum banner
1 - 20 of 71 Posts

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Jump to the most recent post.
Car cranks now, but misfires a lot.


Hi guys, my 2002 330i 137k, cranks but won't start. Here's a list of events that have transpired so far:

-Brought my running car to my dad's place to replace the CCV, since I thought it was leaking oil. I had already changed the valve cover gasket but still it leaked. Hadn't gotten to the Oil Filter Housing Gasket since the oil leak was coming from the passenger side.
-Changed out the hoses following 50skid's tutorial without removing the intake manifold. Quite a pain in the ass, but heard a snap on each hose, clipping onto the oil separator.
-Figured I may as well replace the intake Camshaft Position Sensor, since it was easy and right there, and I had some hesitation issues, where the car would take a second to pull.
-Put everything back together, except I accidentally swapped 2 two-pin electrical connectors, and plugged them into each others ports (A-B, B-A if that makes sense). One was the plug to the evap purge solenoid, and I'm not sure what the other was (it's adjacent to the oil separator, but I can't find what it's called online).
-Reversed into the driveway without issue.
-Came back later to leave for home, issues immediately, bogging, sounding like a lot of misfires (what a surprise).
-Had to turn around after a tenth of a mile, flooring it would lower RPM, and I tried flooring it for about 20-30 seconds to get it up a hill, then back down to my dad's.
-I looked up the videos and immediately recognized I plugged the plugs into the wrong ports. Took everything apart and swapped them. Tried to start, misfires.
-Starting fluid made it start briefly, then died.
-Double checked the intake boots for cracks, cleaned the idle air control valve, cleaned the throttle body, double checked all the CCV connections, replaced the O ring on the dipstick tube.
-Fuel pump stopped working after trying to crank but not starting a few times. Replaced the fuel pump with one I had just in case. Fuel pump primed on key position 2. I checked fuel pressure at the valve, 60psi and dropped to about ~50.

edit saw a thread where someone had almost the same codes I did when I scanned for codes at this point:
36-Main relay
68-tank ventilation valve
53-LLFS opening coil Elec.
27-LLFS Closing coil Elec.
32-secondary air valve
140-output stage failure dmtl pump
126-output stage failure dmtl valve
124-Variable jet system


-Changed all spark plugs, as they were burnt and had fuel (I believe) around the threads. No difference in starting.
-Checked all the fuses in the glove box, they looked fine. However, did not check the fuses behind that fusebox.
-Changed ignition coils, no difference in starting.
-Checked fuses in engine fuse box, couldn't get the cover to slide off, but I could see from below that all the metal in the middle of the fuses were connected, nothing blown or dark, just shiny metal (even the 20A fuse).
-Followed Bali's tutorial on updating/resetting DME, was successful in updating, cleared all codes, cranked again but no start. LFSS error was the one that came up. Not sure, but in researching, maybe something is stuck open?
-Tried checking the coils for sparks with a spark tester, but I've never used one and not sure if I'm using it correctly, as I didn't feel it connected to the ignition coil very well, and when starting the car, nothing happened (no blinking or any sign of spark).
-Started taking out the spark plugs and ignition coils, to put some oil at the bottom of each cylinder, since the cylinders are probably flooded with fuel, but it started getting over 100F outside so I figured I'd ask and go back out tomorrow morning.

I've tried following this thread as much as I can. Not sure if its a spark issue, DME/ECU issue, fuel flooding issue, or something else entirely.
Thanks for any help guys!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
11,958 Posts
-Tried checking the coils for sparks with a spark tester, but I've never used one and not sure if I'm using it correctly, as I didn't feel it connected to the ignition coil very well, and when starting the car, nothing happened (no blinking or any sign of spark).
No need tester: remove the coil and insert a plug, then touch the plug metal body to the engine chassis (valve cover nut/bolt is fine), crank and look for sparks.
except I accidentally swapped 2 two-pin electrical connectors, and plugged them into each others ports (A-B, B-A if that makes sense). One was the plug to the evap purge solenoid, and I'm not sure what the other was (it's adjacent to the oil separator, but I can't find what it's called online).
the other plug is either oil temp or oil pressure (one of them is a 1-pin and the other 2-pin). I don't think this mishap would cause the engine not running.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,558 Posts
having just seen that video... this is not true as im sure he takes out the manifold to swap all the ccv parts lol

"Changed out the hoses following 50skid's tutorial without removing the intake manifold "


how many wires did you disconnect in total?

since youre getting misfires... you must getting codes.

you probably went overboard buying all those parts.. probably forgot to plug something in.
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
having just seen that video... this is not true as im sure he takes out the manifold to swap all the ccv parts lol

"Changed out the hoses following 50skid's tutorial without removing the intake manifold "


how many wires did you disconnect in total?

since youre getting misfires... you must getting codes.

you probably went overboard buying all those parts.. probably forgot to plug something in.
Here's the video, he has another where he does take out the manifold though.

I unplugged evap purge solenoid, MAF, DISA, Throttle Body, Idle Air Control, Oil Pressure...I think that's it (been a couple weeks since I did it).
No more misfires, that was just the one time. I'm pulling codes using INPA. I'll check again today when the sun comes out.

Quadruple checked everything, everything's plugged in. Sounds like it's not doing something, my guess is not firing or not sparking. Cranks but won't start.
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No need tester: remove the coil and insert a plug, then touch the plug metal body to the engine chassis (valve cover nut/bolt is fine), crank and look for sparks.

the other plug is either oil temp or oil pressure (one of them is a 1-pin and the other 2-pin). I don't think this mishap would cause the engine not running.
I'll try the spark test idea today, thanks for the suggestion. If there's no spark, would that point to possibly a fuse? Not sure where to go from there if it doesn't spark.
Thanks for the heads up on oil temp/pressure, I'll try to research and see which it was. Perhaps this mishap caused something else to fail and that's what's happening?

I found a thread of someone who had almost the same codes I had after replacing fuel pump. No solution unfortunately:

36-Main relay
68-tank ventilation valve
53-LLFS opening coil Elec.
27-LLFS Closing coil Elec.
32-secondary air valve
140-output stage failure dmtl pump
126-output stage failure dmtl valve
124-Variable jet system
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check the 5-pack of fuses in the e-box.
Work through our no start guide.
I've been trying to follow the guide, my next steps are opening the 5 pack of fuses (do you have a link on an easy way to do that? I was able to get the box out of the car, but couldn't figure how to get the cover off) and replacing them all to rule that out, and adding a bit of oil to each cylinder with the plugs removed. I'll also test for spark using Sapote's method. Hopefully I can get these done and report back today.

Thank you for your ECU updating guide by the way! Extremely helpful!
 

· Administrator
2013 X1 M-sport
Joined
·
22,476 Posts
I just made this new thread with the 5-pack fuse info.
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just made this new thread with the 5-pack fuse info.
Thanks for that! I actually got it to open, saw one 30A fuse that needed replacing. Replaced it, car sounds better like it wants to start, but still won't start. Added a little bit of oil to each cylinder, drying out the plugs (fair bit of fuel on them), gonna wait a few and throw them back in.

I saw a video of someone using a small amount of Fuel Injector Cleaner down the cylinders. Think I should try this? Not sure what to do if the car doesn't start with the oil in the cylinders. I believe everything is sparking, but not positive.
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You have fuel, so check for spark.
After adding oil to the cylinders, it smoked out the exhaust a bit, but it started up! I'm thinking maybe the piston rings aren't moving as freely as they should? Sparks are coming through as well.

Thank you for your responses by the way, huge help and huge $$$ saver.
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Getting a P1632 code with my regular scanner, only code to come up. Throttle Body adaptation not met? Maybe I have to run INPA to clear the codes, then try again?

Also, probably a separate issue, but I have to jump my car each time to get the car to turn on. I'm guessing it's a battery (replaced 7 months ago) or alternator (never replaced) issue? I've left it running for about 10 minutes and still the same thing happens. Sounded like a misfire one time as well.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
11,958 Posts
I actually got it to open, saw one 30A fuse that needed replacing.
Couldn't you manage to say which fuse that you replaced? Bali had provided the pic of all 5 fuses with identification number for each, and so you should make an effort to communicate better than this. F1 (and other 3 fuses) is a 30A and if it was burnt then there were no sparks.
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Running for 10 minutes won't do much. Take voltage readings, car off, then running. Clean all big cable connections.
Gotta get a new battery for the multimeter, then will check.

Couldn't you manage to say which fuse that you replaced? Bali had provided the pic of all 5 fuses with identification number for each, and so you should make an effort to communicate better than this. F1 (and other 3 fuses) is a 30A and if it was burnt then there were no sparks.
I had the box upside down, since there are two pins on each side of the cover that stop it from sliding out. Not the same cover as the one in Bali's link I guess. The cover fell off and the fuses with it. Sorry I didn't inform you guys of how I pried the box open, I just literally don't know which fuse it would've been, otherwise I would have let you know.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,558 Posts
Check your voltages

if the car needs to be jumped - start with battery first. Then worst case remove air box and try to get a measure of voltage at starter and solenoid.. worst case isstarter to be changed out if it sounded weak or anything.

glad you figured out your cranking problem at least
 

· Registered
2002 330i
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Check your voltages

if the car needs to be jumped - start with battery first. Then worst case remove air box and try to get a measure of voltage at starter and solenoid.. worst case isstarter to be changed out if it sounded weak or anything.

glad you figured out your cranking problem at least
No longer needs to be jumped, battery holds a charge and seems like the alternator is charging it.

However, I get 4 codes, misfires on cylinders 2, 3, 4, and 5. Never on 1 and 6. I looked at the brown ground cable in between cylinders 3 and 4, and it looks pretty messed up. Would cutting then splicing together with a butt splice/lever nut work? Or should I replace the wiring harness entirely? I feel like the ground is funky, which is why the middle cylinders are misfiring, but 1 and 6 are not, because the screws that hold the braided cord ground them out. I'm just guessing, but that's what I believe it's pointing to.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
11,958 Posts
I looked at the brown ground cable in between cylinders 3 and 4, and it looks pretty messed up.
It is the result of someone turning the nut and allowed the ground cable terminal being twisted with the turning nut, but it doesn't look like the ground wire is broken. If it is then just cut off the damaged section and splice in a new wire using solder. No need to replace the whole harness.
 
1 - 20 of 71 Posts
Top