Search for the P0171/P0174 codes and fix the vacuum leaks. Lots of potential causes. Once those are fixed and the codes cleared, see what codes reappear.

 

search for the P0171/174 codes and fix the vacuum leak (LOTS of potential causes) and once that is fixed and the codes cleared - see what codes reappear.

think it is unlikely a vacuum leak. The boots are brand new all the smaller vacuum lines plugging into the back of the manifold are new. The small one going to the fuel filter is brand new. Can think of any others really that I could have missed? Also if it is not starting at all would have to be a major one at that

 

You've done a lot of work on the engine. It's likely something you've done and the codes are pointing towards a vacuum leak.

Smoke test the engine to be sure: How to Smoke Test

 

Yes, smoke test the engine to find the vacuum leaks

 

Just saw the link you provided will buy the smoke tester and see what’s going on

 

It occurred to me that I did not check the gap on the new plugs I put in. I assumed they were pre gapped not sure if that’s the problem gonna check tomorrow and order the smoke test machine from Amazon

 

the bkruep spark plugs do not need to be gapped... they have 4 prongs just throw them in .. torque em properly

your most likely have a huge vacuum leak - check your intake boot or the valve cover that you did..

 

As I thought about the possibilities of a massive vacuum leak I could’ve caused that could be the issue I did think about the valve cover as the most probably culprit. Boots are on well I’m sure of that double checked today. Maybe the gasket didn’t sit in the valve cover when I put it on causing it not to seal. Will do smoke test to be sure. If not a massive vacuum leak I guess we will eliminate that and go from there

 

also double check that you've installed all your connectors underneath the intake manifold... there's a chance you missed one

 

I double checked this morning. All of them checked out and are plugged in the correct places. You guys think it’s more likely vacuum leak than a fuel delivery issue? Either that or something wrong with the coils and spark plugs? Also was wondering does the system update codes automatically or could any of the codes be old?

 

the lean codes lean towards a vacuum leak by experience .. have you checked your intake boot is tight to the throttle body and also the little tinier boot is proper tight to the idle control valve..

double check the back of your intake to make sure you got your plugs and the other vacuum line going to the exhaust valve around the valve cover .. maybe it got pinched or something or completely fell off (happened to me) ... "whats this random ass piece of rubber (like a thimble) lol..

as others have said light up a giant old fat blunt and smoke test your system

 

I’m 100% sure intake boots are secure, double checked that this morning. The ones behind the intake are on. I did not forget those and the little stupid cap fell off and was a pain in the ass to get back and put on. Even if it was off, that wouldn’t cause a no start, just rough idle. That’s why I don’t think it’s a vacuum leak, but who knows? The codes indicate a fuel to air ratio that is off, so doesn’t necessarily mean a vacuum leak, but everyone thinks so.

 

did you connect all the connectors to your coils , made sure they are snapped in and also the two little "Grounds" 8mm screws?

smoke test it... its a PITA to start but fun once u find the hole

 

did you connect all the connectors to your coils , made sure they are snapped in and also the two little "Grounds" 8mm screws?

smoke test it... its a PITA to start but fun once u find the hole

Yeah they’re all good must be a BIG HOLE

 

maybe the oil you coated to install the injectors has clogged the injectors? idk...

 

Or the injectors didn’t go all the way in or o ring isn’t sealing it in?

 

yeah exactly.. but then you would smell fuel no? but that might explain the low fuel...

if i were you id go either A or B to determine issue:

A - dismantle almost everything back to square one and basically check everything again... not just a oh looks good but take it apart (how much time do you really have since the initial repair you said took months)

B - smoke test it... then do A if smoke dont pour out a missed hole

 

It’s been about 4 months

 

Maybe the gasket didn’t sit in the valve cover when I put it on causing it not to seal.

Why the gasket didn't sit? It has ridge to lock in the groove.

I had the codes ran and they are as follows:
1.) P0174 System too lean (Bank 2)
2.) P0313 Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
3.) P0300 Random Misfire Detected
4.)P1347 Misfire Cylinder 3 with Fuel Cut-Off
5.)P1343 Misfire Cylinder 1 with Fuel Cut-Off
6.)P1353 Misfire Cylinder 6 with Fuel Cut-Off
7.)P149 Misfire Cylinder 4 with Fuel Cut-Off
8.)P1351 Misfire cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off
9.)P1085 Fuel Control Limit Mixture too lean (Bank 2 sensor 1)
10.)P1083 Fuel Control Limit Mixture too lean (Bank 1 sensor 1)
11.)P0171 System too lean (bank 1)
12.)P0313 Misfire detected with low fuel
13.)P0300 Random Misfire Detected

No big deal -- just only a few. Are they before or after the repair?
these codes must be before the repair as no new codes should be generated with engine not running.
Why accumulate so many codes and didn't care when one or two popped up? I can't focus with so many codes dancing around.

While replacing the pipes I did the intake gasket, oil filter housing gasket, valve cover gasket, new plugs, blue BMW coolant, mobile 1 synthetic oil change, new upper and lower intake boots, ccv is relatively new, fuel pump is relatively new, all other coolant parts a relatively new, new vacuum lines.

wow, so many new parts but didn't replace the 20 years old engine.

 

The engine only has about 130 miles. Is there a way to reset the codes without it running

 

turn it to postition 2 so that all the lights are on and plug in your odb scanner and then wipe your codes

car doesnt need to be running to check / delete codes

 

turn it to postition 2 so that all the lights are on and plug in your odb scanner and then wipe your codes

car doesnt need to be running to check / delete codes

Will try that. Is there a tester I can get or a way to test my boots and plugs are firing

 

Update decided I’m going to do a compression test today to see if that’s an issue it’s free to rent the tools at auto zone so why not do it while I’m at it going to verify the plugs are gapped correctly. And going to get a multimeter to test the ignition fuse. Will let you all know what I find

 

multiple people have already told you to smoke test it its like you dont wanna listen so im done with this thread

 

That’s fine there’s a laundry list of problems more probable that don’t require spending a few hundred bucks doesn’t hurt to check those and then if all else fails and I know the engine has compression I’ll do that as well peace ✌🏼

 

Yup crankshaft/camshaft sensor could be it too, but if there are no codes, should you replace it?
Bad coil pack could be it too, but that is an expensive test.

 

It is not probably all 6 coil packs failed at the same time. I don’t think that’s it if everything I hooked up correctly. For me I think the elephant in the room here is that prior to me taking it apart RIGHT BEFORE the engine started running rough bouncing rpm’s and dying. So maybe a sensor was soft failing at that time and now has failed completely or god forbid a compression issue. Compression test is free, so gonna try it today. If engine has low compression, that’s the issue.

 

@supremebeing35 Clear the codes, try to start it, read the codes, report what codes you got.

 

Just find it hard to believe car wouldn’t turn over at all

this suggests it is not cranking over but in the first post - it does crank.

 

It cranks but will not turn over engine

“crank” and “turn over” mean the same thing!

 

Lol okay when I turn the key it sounds like it wants to start but won’t sorry for the confusion I don’t know the best way to explain this 😂 reference the video I guess

 

So as instructed I cleared the codes then turned ignition off unplug code reader tried to start the car service engine light came on but it’s saying no codes detected?

 

Update found a problem, Cylinder Wash from the car sitting for months. Compression test confirmed low compression in almost all cylinders most were around 30 two outliers were at 90. Poured some 5w 30 down in there. Compression is well above 100 now. Gonna let the excess oil drain a bit so I’m gonna let it sit before I try to start her up or is that even a concern? Thanks again

 

Update got the car to start runs rough and dies. a lot of smoke blowing out the tail pipe (oil burning off). Not sure where to go from here but progress is made

 

Looks like I’m back to step 1 where I was before I did the repair rough idle and cut off. But the car starts so that’s progress. No codes are showing up still I guess since I cleared them they’re a little shy. Anyways going to test my crank shaft sensor with a meter and see if that’s what it be. Love yas

 

Update for any still with me. Got the smoke tester today gonna give it a go see what I find. If for any reason I have a head gasket blown would a smoke test reveal it? Not that I think I do because oil is not mayo color and coolant seems fine. Let me know guys

 

head gasket blown would a smoke test reveal it?

No. Smoke test exposes leaks in intake and crankcase to atmosphere.
There are different tests for a blown head gasket.

 

Okay so did the smoke test and looks like the disa flap is leaking really bad. Would that give the symptoms I’m having where it starts and dies right off the bat? And would you guys recommend just replacing the whole disa or just the gasket

 

Test the DISA first, take the unit out of the IM and do not unplug it from the connecter, than have someone turn your key on/engine off for you or leave the DISA in plain sight from the cabin. The valve should close than reopen on key on.

If it doesn't do that then do the vacuum actuator check, close the flap by hand. Cover the small hole with a finger then let go of the flap. If the valve opens half way, then the diaphragm is working. If the diaphragm is intact, you may just need to do a rebuild on the actuator arm.