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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my car all of a sudden stopped cranking, so I changed the starter and it worked! BUT during the job I removed the intake manifold and coolant hoses to reach the starter. Everything was fine until I noticed the coolant light came on, I checked under the hood and one of the hoses came off so I fixed it. Poured more coolant to max level. Now after taking it out for a spin the temp went red and the the coolant light turned on then off and right after that the oil light came on. What do you guys think it could be. This car was perfectly fine until the f** starter went out. I also did not put a new gasket on the intake manifold

UPDATE**
so my dumbass didn’t bleed the coolant system (had to remove upper hose driver side, there’s two of them did that to reach bottom starter bolt.) so after putting everything back together I bleed it and she was thirsty took another gallon of coolant. After bleeding she ran like a charm!! Digital temp (test 7 on dash) read at about 80-97 it would cool down when I would accelerate. Overall seems like she’s up and running mates thank you so much. God bless everyone and their e46.
 

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congrats on the starter job...

These engines are very sensitive to overheats. You need to be aggressive to make sure the cooling system is working properly.

Fix your coolant leaks.
It also sounds to me like you didn't bleed it right. Read up on how to bleed it properly. it HAS to be done correctly.

Also, learn how to unlock the cluster menu and read test #7 that shows coolant temp in digital form...It should not go above 100 Celsius..ever

Whenever I refill a coolant system, I have test #7 and am watching it like a hawk while the car warms up.
 

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So my car all of a sudden stopped cranking, so I changed the starter and it worked! BUT during the job I removed the intake manifold and coolant hoses to reach the starter. Everything was fine until I noticed the coolant light came on, I checked under the hood and one of the hoses came off so I fixed it. Poured more coolant to max level. Now after taking it out for a spin the temp went red and the the coolant light turned on then off and right after that the oil light came on. What do you guys think it could be. This car was perfectly fine until the f** starter went out. I also did not put a new gasket on the intake manifold
Helpful Hint: If your issue is not related to the folding Cabriolet roof, post your inquiries in the GENERAL section for greater exposure.
 

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Sounds like you need to bleed the cooling system. Super easy. Turn the heat on 90 degrees and 3 red dots on center vent, loosen bleeder screw next to expansion tank, fill with coolant till it comes out the bleeder screw, tighten bleeder screw and drive. Should be fine (if there are no more leaks and you didn't drive in the red for more than 20-30 seconds).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
congrats on the starter job...

These engines are very sensitive to overheats. You need to be aggressive to make sure the cooling system is working properly.

Fix your coolant leaks.
It also sounds to me like you didn't bleed it right. Read up on how to bleed it properly. it HAS to be done correctly.

Also, learn how to unlock the cluster menu and read test #7 that shows coolant temp in digital form...It should not go above 100 Celsius..ever

Whenever I refill a coolant system, I have test #7 and am watching it like a hawk while the car warms up.
I Did Not Bleed it!! Shiiii THANK YOU
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like you need to bleed the cooling system. Super easy. Turn the heat on 90 degrees and 3 red dots on center vent, loosen bleeder screw next to expansion tank, fill with coolant till it comes out the bleeder screw, tighten bleeder screw and drive. Should be fine (if there are no more leaks and you didn't drive in the red for more than 20-30 seconds).
I Didn’t bleed it! I’ll try that today and post an update thank you so much 💪🏼
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So my car all of a sudden stopped cranking, so I changed the starter and it worked! BUT during the job I removed the intake manifold and coolant hoses to reach the starter. Everything was fine until I noticed the coolant light came on, I checked under the hood and one of the hoses came off so I fixed it. Poured more coolant to max level. Now after taking it out for a spin the temp went red and the the coolant light turned on then off and right after that the oil light came on. What do you guys think it could be. This car was perfectly fine until the f** starter went out. I also did not put a new gasket on the intake manifold
I DID NOT bleed the coolant system trying that today.
 

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OP good luck with bleeding the system. You should be good after that. An air pocket most likely is causing the high temp issue. Just take your time doing the procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
congrats on the starter job...

These engines are very sensitive to overheats. You need to be aggressive to make sure the cooling system is working properly.

Fix your coolant leaks.
It also sounds to me like you didn't bleed it right. Read up on how to bleed it properly. it HAS to be done correctly.

Also, learn how to unlock the cluster menu and read test #7 that shows coolant temp in digital form...It should not go above 100 Celsius..ever

Whenever I refill a coolant system, I have test #7 and am watching it like a hawk while the car warms up.
Thank you!!!
 

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Sounds like you need to bleed the cooling system. Super easy. Turn the heat on 90 degrees and 3 red dots on center vent, loosen bleeder screw next to expansion tank, fill with coolant till it comes out the bleeder screw, tighten bleeder screw and drive. Should be fine
I won't be fine as the over-filled tank will explode.
 

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I Didn’t bleed it! I’ll try that today and post an update thank you so much 💪🏼
OK, didn't even bleed before, but now do you know how to do it properly?

Now after taking it out for a spin the temp went red and the the coolant light turned on then off and right after that the oil light came on
Oil light -- what color? hopefully it was yellow, as red oil light could mean engine seized up due to overheated and rpm dropped too low triggered the red oil light.
I hope engine was not damaged yet, and here is a bleeding method you can try:

Sapote method, rev1:
1) engine cold, car head up on slope driveway or flat ground level is fine.
2) remove bleeder and tank cap, fill coolant to the MAX marker on the tank using the red rod as indicator. Do not overfill to top of tank.
3) close the bleeder, set heater to hot and fan low, run engine at idle. Don’t turn off engine until the end. Important: Do not let engine running more than 7 minutes total while the tank cap is not closed, to avoid damaging the cylinder head.
4) Crack open the bleeder to let air out and close it when no more air bubbles. Top off the tank to MAX marker. Close the bleeder and screw the tank cap by one turn to avoid coolant shooting in next step when rev-ing up the engine.
5) Rev it up to about 2500 RPM a few times to push out any air pockets (in the head and the heater core) into the upper hose/tank. Keep engine idling for next steps.
6) Crack open the bleeder again to let air out and close it when no more air bubbles. Top off the tank to MAX marker. Close the tank cap.
7) Test drive and check for having heated air in cabin. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, didn't even bleed before, but now do you know how to do it properly?


Oil light -- what color? hopefully it was yellow, as red oil light could mean engine seized up due to overheated and rpm dropped too low triggered the red oil light.
I hope engine was not damaged yet, and here is a bleeding method you can try:

Sapote method, rev1:
1) engine cold, car head up on slope driveway or flat ground level is fine.
2) remove bleeder and tank cap, fill coolant to the MAX marker on the tank using the red rod as indicator. Do not overfill to top of tank.
3) close the bleeder, set heater to hot and fan low, run engine at idle. Don’t turn off engine until the end. Important: Do not let engine running more than 7 minutes total while the tank cap is not closed, to avoid damaging the cylinder head.
4) Crack open the bleeder to let air out and close it when no more air bubbles. Top off the tank to MAX marker. Close the bleeder and screw the tank cap by one turn to avoid coolant shooting in next step when rev-ing up the engine.
5) Rev it up to about 2500 RPM a few times to push out any air pockets (in the head and the heater core) into the upper hose/tank. Keep engine idling for next steps.
6) Crack open the bleeder again to let air out and close it when no more air bubbles. Top off the tank to MAX marker. Close the tank cap.
7) Test drive and check for having heated air in cabin. Done.
Speedometer Odometer Car Motor vehicle Light
So thank you! I’m currently letting the engine run this is test 7 and so far it’s been sitting in the middle digital says 92
 

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If it stays there...or even under 98, you are probably fine.

The actual temp gauge is nearly useless...It is calibrated to stay in the middle at temperatures between 75C and 105C - or something similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So my car all of a sudden stopped cranking, so I changed the starter and it worked! BUT during the job I removed the intake manifold and coolant hoses to reach the starter. Everything was fine until I noticed the coolant light came on, I checked under the hood and one of the hoses came off so I fixed it. Poured more coolant to max level. Now after taking it out for a spin the temp went red and the the coolant light turned on then off and right after that the oil light came on. What do you guys think it could be. This car was perfectly fine until the f** starter went out. I also did not put a new gasket on the intake manifold
TURNS OUT I didn’t bleed the system right. (I removed the upper hose driver side to reach the starter.) so after putting everything back and finally bleeding the cooling system everything checked out. No more over heating she works like a charm now thank you everyone who chimed in 🙏🏼
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK, didn't even bleed before, but now do you know how to do it properly?


Oil light -- what color? hopefully it was yellow, as red oil light could mean engine seized up due to overheated and rpm dropped too low triggered the red oil light.
I hope engine was not damaged yet, and here is a bleeding method you can try:

Sapote method, rev1:
1) engine cold, car head up on slope driveway or flat ground level is fine.
2) remove bleeder and tank cap, fill coolant to the MAX marker on the tank using the red rod as indicator. Do not overfill to top of tank.
3) close the bleeder, set heater to hot and fan low, run engine at idle. Don’t turn off engine until the end. Important: Do not let engine running more than 7 minutes total while the tank cap is not closed, to avoid damaging the cylinder head.
4) Crack open the bleeder to let air out and close it when no more air bubbles. Top off the tank to MAX marker. Close the bleeder and screw the tank cap by one turn to avoid coolant shooting in next step when rev-ing up the engine.
5) Rev it up to about 2500 RPM a few times to push out any air pockets (in the head and the heater core) into the upper hose/tank. Keep engine idling for next steps.
6) Crack open the bleeder again to let air out and close it when no more air bubbles. Top off the tank to MAX marker. Close the tank cap.
7) Test drive and check for having heated air in cabin. Done.
Everything is back to normal after bleeding 💪🏼
 
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