This post shows how the coolant level sensor works and how to test it.
It resides inside an air cavity on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank sealed off from the coolant. You can remove the sensor without worry of a coolant shower. Oddly, you remove it by rotating it clockwise 1/4 turn (as opposed to counter clockwise), similar to a left hand threaded bolt.
The sensor works using magnetism. A washer shaped magnet on a coolant float stick activates the sensor when position is nearby. The most common reason I've seen for the coolant level sensor to not work is a poor quality (cheap ebay) expansion tank with a non functioning float/magnet.
The sensor is a normally open magnetically activated reed switch that gets closed when the magnet washer on the float is in the normal range of coolant level, near the reed switch. A closed reed switch keeps the coolant level light off. A very low coolant level opens the reed switch turning on the coolant level light. The photos below show the coolant level sensor open with no magnet and then closed with a magnet.
For some reason, you cannot push the red float stick down far enough to cause the coolant level light to come on. I have tried!
See @Sapote’s explanation in this post.
The windshield washer fluid level sensor is identical and can easily be swapped in as a test. You can also just put a magnet near the reed switch and watch it close up.
Wiring diagram for coolant level switch.
Coolant Level Switch Wiring Diagram
pic below shows open reed switch
pic below shows closed reed switch caused by a magnet
cut open expansion tanks
It resides inside an air cavity on the bottom of the coolant expansion tank sealed off from the coolant. You can remove the sensor without worry of a coolant shower. Oddly, you remove it by rotating it clockwise 1/4 turn (as opposed to counter clockwise), similar to a left hand threaded bolt.
The sensor works using magnetism. A washer shaped magnet on a coolant float stick activates the sensor when position is nearby. The most common reason I've seen for the coolant level sensor to not work is a poor quality (cheap ebay) expansion tank with a non functioning float/magnet.
The sensor is a normally open magnetically activated reed switch that gets closed when the magnet washer on the float is in the normal range of coolant level, near the reed switch. A closed reed switch keeps the coolant level light off. A very low coolant level opens the reed switch turning on the coolant level light. The photos below show the coolant level sensor open with no magnet and then closed with a magnet.
For some reason, you cannot push the red float stick down far enough to cause the coolant level light to come on. I have tried!
See @Sapote’s explanation in this post.
The windshield washer fluid level sensor is identical and can easily be swapped in as a test. You can also just put a magnet near the reed switch and watch it close up.
Wiring diagram for coolant level switch.
Coolant Level Switch Wiring Diagram
pic below shows open reed switch
pic below shows closed reed switch caused by a magnet
cut open expansion tanks