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Convertible top fault codes - need help

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9.9K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  dtamack  
#1 ·
So I fixed the obvious broken wires in the top and the trunk. The top still will not actuate either direction. I struggled to get it fully down manually and latch the cover. It seemed like the valves were not relieving pressure. No fluid leakage and the reservoir is full.

In any case, I get a flashing red LED when the CVM is plugged back in after being disconnected. After 30 seconds or so, it goes out. I gave up and took it to the local dealer to have them read the codes. They are attached. The mechanic said that they all hate convertible top issues, because you can take from 3 to 10 hours to diagnose and fix.

If anyone has experience with this, I am dying to fix it myself. I think it might be the valve body, but I have no pin-out for that side of the CVM. The pin-out of the top switches and sensors is on these forums, but the other is not.

Does anyone near Allentown PA have the DIS reader, so I can recheck these codes after I reset them?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 

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#3 ·
Thanks taylor192, I did look at the valve body, but it is so tight and hard to see with the top mechanism nearby, how did you get to it? Right now, my top is down. Is it easier to get to and repair when the top is up?

I am simply amazed that the top worked perfectly up until I had the wire in the top break. Now there seems to be multiple issues. I know that the faults for the top up and down permanently active were done by me trying to figure out what was going on.
 
#4 ·
I wrote the hydraulic sticky. Give it a read, you'll see I removed the entire top from the car. Unfortunately if you're having baker problems, or problems with the wiring near the valve block, then you're going to have to do the same.

Did you electrically test the wires after repair?

Also try resetting the codes then operate the top and see what codes come back. I'm surprised the shop didn't do this for you.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#5 ·
I did test the wires after the repair, everything I could test was good. I am not looking forward to removing the top, it seems possible for me to eff it all up. Plus I think I will need an overhead hoist or another strong guy. Was it simple enough to put back into place, or do you need a series of shims with trial and error?

I will read the hydraulic sticky once again, but I am not looking forward to removing the top, only to find that it was maybe not the valve body after all!

It is that old money/ time trade-off. Take it to the dealer and pay $$$$ or stick to home diagnosis and curse nightly. I will say that the BMW wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual are horrible for the convertible top. Audi and Honda factory manuals are much better.
 
#6 ·
So I gave up after reading the hydraulic sticky. It seemed like it could not be that, given that it all worked fine one day to the next. I decided to take it to the dealer, Daniels BMW in Allentown. After digging into it, they found a missing fuse and a bad ground. Fixed! Just $300 to have someone else figure that out. I guess it could have been worse! Thanks to all that offered suggestions.