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Everyone with a convertible may as well have a new wiring loom ready. It's a nice diy job and it needs doing anyway after 10-16 years , which is how old all our cars are!
 

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This thread is amazing. i bought an e46 M3 convertible yesterday with a roof that does not move. the previous owner said that BMW told him its one of the potentiometers/sensors that is dead. your posts will help me a lot with my troubleshooting. thanks guys!
 

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wiring

I just finished repairing a broken wiring harness on my wife's car with help from info found here and other places and would like to put the resources I found in one thread. The mods can even sticky this one if they like.

The BMW TIS/ETK system can be found various places on the web. It will have instructions on how to work on the top and part numbers if needed. Here's just one place I used;
http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/

Here's the BMW wiring diagram system; (better than the one above)
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/index.htm

I've attached a pdf of the CVM pinout diagram, with notes. I've listed the wire colors for the connection to the convertible top harness and noted the device numbers from the top manual where possible.

Here's my advice if the top is not working. Take it to someone that can read the codes, even if you plan on doing the work yourself. Pay the diagnostic fee and be happy. Otherwise you're completely in the dark.

Now for the real work!

1. All the sensors (except for the storage compartment floor/S239) are Hall-effect sensors and will have some resistance on them regardless of position. They have no moving parts and have a low failure rate, so if the software diagnosis is a bad sensor/valve/motor, it's very likely there's a broken wire.

2. Now you or your mechanic will have to remove the back seat and rear left passenger armrest and trim panel to access the CVM. For the next check, unplug the top harness (white connector) from the CVM and check for resistance on matching pairs according to the diagram. Start with the one that was noted bad in the software diagnosis. All the sensors and solenoid valves on this harness should have some resistance on them.

3. If any of them show an open circuit it's time to get serious, as the next step requres you to start taking stuff apart. The next step is to disconnect the questionable device from the harness and test it, and if it's bad, replace it.

4. If the device tested is not open circuit that means a wire is broken in the harness. You'll have to get some extra wire and check continuity on both wires to the pair in question to determine which one is broken. Once you find it, it's up to you if you want to split the harness and look for it. I bought some 18ga black automotive wire and ran a jumper along the length of the harness from the top latch sensor all the way to the CVM connector.

Notes;
1. My experience was with the top harness but similar techniques can be used on the other harnesses connected to the CVM.
2. Remember that the windows and storage compartment cover are controlled by the general module, so when you push the up or down button, control is handed back and forth between the GM and the CVM twice per cycle.
3. Don't let someone sell you new top latches just because there's cracks in the plastic jack-screws. The plastic is cast onto the end of a metal bar. The metal bar has two holes drilled through it so the plastic is cast through the holes and it won't fall off!

If you have or find more tools for troubleshooting the convertible top feel free to add it here. If you find mistakes in my information please point it out.

Thanks,
DJ
Hi this is JACK FROM HOLLAND
having some troubles with my E46 330ci top
I've tried to find the wiring diagram but the link say's page not found
so can you send me a copy if you have?
Thanks in advance jack_nr_
 

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43 [067] open load on unlocking / opening

Hi - just adding to this thread with some different symptoms, but same fix. My top was working perfectly, then one day when trying to open, the windows went part down as normal, then nothing. I had a solid red light and no movement of the top. I have PA software and got a "43 [067] open load on unlocking / opening error" that would not clear. I could find anything with my search, but found this thread and took an educated guess it was a wire. Sure enough, I had a broken wire in the 90 degree bend. I soldered in a new wire. Top works great again and code cleared. Hope this helps someone!!!
 

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So I tested the continuity of the pins like mentioned by vader007 and found I didnt have continuity accross 13, 14 and 4,5. After further diagnostic work I found that there no breaks in the wire and therefore found that there is no continuity across either cowl locking sensors. Can anyone confirm if the sensors are meant to have continuity across them and would this cause the roof to work with engine running but not work with the engine on?
 

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My roof isn't working properly at the moment and I do not have continuity across 13, 14 and 4,5. I have replaced the senors but they to, do not have continuity. Just wondering if anyone could confirm if there is meant to be continuity there or not?
 

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I can't remember for sure and I can't test anymore, since I have sold my E46 last year... but IIRC you should have continuity across the sensors. The Hall effect sensors measure the angle of the various components, but don't actually open/close the circuit; it just changes voltages depending on the angle (this I'm 80% sure about, but there is a possibility I am wrong). Hall sensors rarely fail.

Also to be sure - some people had confusion over this, but continuity simply means that a wire is intact, i.e. current is able to be passed between the two ends of a wire. You set an ohmmeter across both pins, and if the resistance is not infinite then the two wires are intact, since the current can travel up the first wire, thru the sensor, and back down the second wire.

There's also more than one location where the wire can break; for most people, like me, it was the frontmost bend above front seat, but others have had wires break at the other bends, i.e the ones above the rear seat or at the rearmost hinge. If you don't have continuity across 13/14 and 4/5, you have at least 2 and at most 4 broken wires.
 

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Hi guys, my e46 top also just opens from the windshield latches then no movement. Based in what I have read in the forum, it would most likely be broken wire at the usual bend. I opened the harness today and all wires are still intact. There are noticeable crease on the wiring bend though but no open plastic sleeve with exposed wiring. Is it possible that the metal wires inside is broken though it is still looking connected from the outside? Or should I look at something else now as possible problem cause?


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Hi guys, my e46 top also just opens from the windshield latches then no movement. Based in what I have read in the forum, it would most likely be broken wire at the usual bend. I opened the harness today and all wires are still intact. There are noticeable crease on the wiring bend though but no open plastic sleeve with exposed wiring. Is it possible that the metal wires inside is broken though it is still looking connected from the outside? Or should I look at something else now as possible problem cause?


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Unfortunately, it is still very possible that the wire strands are broken inside the sheath. That was my experience any way.


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hi guys, hope someone can help, so my roof stopped working last year as winter kicked in, so didnt really bother doing much with it.

So decided to start working on it, and have it ready for the sunny days this year.

I checked for continuity across the pins on the CVM plug just know, 14&13, 4&5 did not make any audible continuity, however momentarilly the number will change from 1 to something between 1400-1900, this will happen briefly on first contact.

Each of the triplets, gave no audible continuity, however the screen on the multimeter was constantly changing values, I assume that means they are ok?

So I decided to further test the cowl sensors as thats what pins 14&13, 4&5 are for. So when to roof stopped working I replaced the whole lenght of wire above the left windows for those pins as that seems to be the common cause. So i decided to test continuity along the solder joints. Again i had the same as the CVM plug side.

Does that lead to possible broken sensors?

Also some further info, when it stopped working last year, and after i replaced the wires I got INPA to work and read the codes, had one which is 31 VSW 4.1, Eingang an Masse

For some reason I cant get INPA to work again :(

heres a link to the thread i made last year.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1152297&page=4
 

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hi guys, hope someone can help, so my roof stopped working last year as winter kicked in, so didnt really bother doing much with it.

So decided to start working on it, and have it ready for the sunny days this year.

I checked for continuity across the pins on the CVM plug just know, 14&13, 4&5 did not make any audible continuity, however momentarilly the number will change from 1 to something between 1400-1900, this will happen briefly on first contact.

Each of the triplets, gave no audible continuity, however the screen on the multimeter was constantly changing values, I assume that means they are ok?

So I decided to further test the cowl sensors as thats what pins 14&13, 4&5 are for. So when to roof stopped working I replaced the whole lenght of wire above the left windows for those pins as that seems to be the common cause. So i decided to test continuity along the solder joints. Again i had the same as the CVM plug side.

Does that lead to possible broken sensors?

Also some further info, when it stopped working last year, and after i replaced the wires I got INPA to work and read the codes, had one which is 31 VSW 4.1, Eingang an Masse

For some reason I cant get INPA to work again :(

heres a link to the thread i made last year.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1152297&page=4
 

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This thread has been helpful, but I am a little stuck. Top not working at all. Shop said error code shows clamping bracket not in position. Wires above passenger seat not broken. Would like to do continuety test but I cant find termination point for the harness that goes along passenger side of top to top module. 3 plugs on top module, none of which are same wire combination. Diagrams from ealier post no longer available. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 

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Just stumbled across this guide and will have a look for broken wires tomorrow. I have the classic "roof only working halfway" thing - will report back.
 
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