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Discussion Starter #1
Do anyone know if it is possible to change your control arm bushings without taking of the entire control arm?? Also are the poly uerethane bushings the way to go?
 

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1. Yes.

2. Yes and No.

Urethane bushings will far outlast any rubber bushings, but, those urethane bushings do tend to squeak, which can rack the nerves. :ben:

If you want no squeaks, then stick w/ either OEM or Meyle HD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks a lot, I'll get right on it. I hate any weird noises coming from my Bimmer, so i will definately consider this.
 

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How difficult is it to change just the bushings (not the arms)? Obviously, it's much cheaper to do just the bushings but can you swap out the OEM for Meyle bushings without going with a Meyle arm?

I need to do mine and I'm a broke mofo so was considering doing just the bushings first then the arms later (the arms seem to be fine anyway).

Thanks.
 

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1. Yes.

2. Yes and No.

Urethane bushings will far outlast any rubber bushings, but, those urethane bushings do tend to squeak, which can rack the nerves. :ben:

If you want no squeaks, then stick w/ either OEM or Meyle HD.
You are a fine young chap.
 

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Do a search in youtube...You will find some video's showing how to just change the bushings and not the control arms. I recently got mine done went with OEM a lot cheaper on fleabay then any online stores. Good Luck
 

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How difficult is it to change just the bushings (not the arms)? Obviously, it's much cheaper to do just the bushings but can you swap out the OEM for Meyle bushings without going with a Meyle arm?

I need to do mine and I'm a broke mofo so was considering doing just the bushings first then the arms later (the arms seem to be fine anyway).

Thanks.
The Meyle bushings and control arms have the same dimensions as the stock parts thus they are interchangeable with the stock parts. Meyle bushings don't require Meyle CAs.

Keep in mind that if you do the bushings now and the arms later, you will need to replace the bushings again when you get around to doing the arms. The stock/Meyle rubber bushings aren't supposed to be re-used once they've been removed from the arms. This will mean buying another set of bushings and is why most recommend doing the arms and bushings at the same time.
 

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+1 got 76k miles, was going to change just the bushing but ended up changing the control arms with meyles as well so i never have to worry about it again for a while.

went with powerflex FCAB. 500+ miles no squeeks so far
 

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+1 got 76k miles, was going to change just the bushing but ended up changing the control arms with meyles as well so i never have to worry about it again for a while.

went with powerflex FCAB. 500+ miles no squeeks so far
if you get any squeeks post back am at 80 mi and i think my control arm bushing is going, not sure which route am going to take yet..
 

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Great, thanks. Will check the Tube.

I want to replace both the arms and bushings at the same time, unfortunately, I don't have the funds at the moment for the arms. I may just hold off a little longer. Hmm...

Thanks for the advice guys!
 

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1. Yes.

2. Yes and No.

Urethane bushings will far outlast any rubber bushings, but, those urethane bushings do tend to squeak, which can rack the nerves. :ben:

If you want no squeaks, then stick w/ either OEM or Meyle HD.
agreed. i would do it all at once as bushings are a ***** and u wont want to do them again when you get your control arms. there is a meyle ca kit in bavarian autosport for less than 500 and diy that ish!
 

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keep in mind that the ZHP control arms have steel ball joints that don't go bad often. if you have a ZHP, you might consider replacing just the bushings with the meyle HD ones if the control arms/ball joints are not bad. they're about 10 bucks more than stock. i did mine awhile back, you just need a 3 claw puller to get the old one off the end of the control arm. other than that it's a 2 bolt job after you remove the aluminum subframe underneath which is about 8 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How many people had to get an alignment after replacing the front control arm bushing in your bimmers? Also, what are the indications WHILE driving that lets you know that you need new bushings???
 

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How many people had to get an alignment after replacing the front control arm bushing in your bimmers? Also, what are the indications WHILE driving that lets you know that you need new bushings???
I'd assume you'd always need an alignment afterwards, and the indications while driving... well you'd get a slight shake in the wheel when braking and you'd get just generally sloppy handling.
 

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I just changed my control arm bushings out with Meyle HD's from Bavauto.com @ 60k miles

They fixed the problem and are noticeably stiffer then the soft worn OEM ones i had in there. The steering wheel vibrates just a little more since installing them.

I was considering the Powerflex ones, but since this is my DD and I don't want to deal with lubing squeaking bushings, I went with the meyle HD's and am happy.
 

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How many people had to get an alignment after replacing the front control arm bushing in your bimmers? Also, what are the indications WHILE driving that lets you know that you need new bushings???
While driving: Intermittent vibrations that don't seem to be related to wheel balance, especially at highway speeds; loose/unresponsive steering feel; clunking noises going over bumps; clunking when applying or releasing the brakes.

I had to get an alignment after changing from worn-out OEM bushings to polyurethane bushings. My front toe was WAY off, which will eat up tires real quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, How many miles have you driven on your polyurethane bushings? I really want them but are afraid of the noises they will make.
Damm I love this website....
 

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I've put about 1500 miles on my polyurethane bushings, but most of that is highway driving including a road trip from Tampa to Dothan, AL (and back). I haven't noticed any squeaking, but there is definitely more road vibration transmitted to/through the steering wheel. You can feel every imperfection in the road.

At low/city speeds and for track purposes, I'm sure it's an improvement. For extended highway driving, it's not an improvement.
 
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