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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Thanks for the tips. My order at FCP was entered last night.
I got 2 Rein hoses, Wahler thermostat, Salieri pump, and BMW coolant.

Manolito, what bad experience did you have with non-BMW coolant?
 

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Depending on where you live, I suggest applying WDE46's RTV fix to your new thermostat before installing it.

Read WDE46's link here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1111189&highlight=red+rtv+thermostat+leak

I'm in Minnesota, and whether I just had a run of not-so-good Wahler T-stats, or perhaps the cold weather going to hot, I cannot say. I replaced my already replaced-by-me Wahler T-stat two times in less than one year because of small, but noticeable leaks at the thermistor sensor. When the third one sprang the leak I was motivated enough to read all the threads and saw WDE46's. My newest T-stat has now been in about 3500 miles and is bone dry with no dried coolant residues. I saved the last T-stat that leaked, since I now know how to make it right.

Thanks, WDE46 !

Mariner05
 

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Depending on where you live, I suggest applying WDE46's RTV fix to your new thermostat before installing it.

Read WDE46's link here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1111189&highlight=red+rtv+thermostat+leak

I'm in Minnesota, and whether I just had a run of not-so-good Wahler T-stats, or perhaps the cold weather going to hot, I cannot say. I replaced my already replaced-by-me Wahler T-stat two times in less than one year because of small, but noticeable leaks at the thermistor sensor. When the third one sprang the leak I was motivated enough to read all the threads and saw WDE46's. My newest T-stat has now been in about 3500 miles and is bone dry with no dried coolant residues. I saved the last T-stat that leaked, since I now know how to make it right.

Thanks, WDE46 !

Mariner05
I've got a Wahler stat that's been in since late 2014 and has some residue, the one it replaced was just under two years old. That one soft failed and threw the P0128 code. My Meyle water pump has been in since early 2013 and going strong, the Graf in my e36 is older and still going strong.
OP Mark your belts so they go on in the same direction they came off.
 

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i want to confess too, i had both my water pump and thermostat out of the car on separate occasions and i thought to myself, i might as well put in new ones, and then i thought, nah and installed the old ones back in. 116k
 

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2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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i want to confess too, i had both my water pump and thermostat out of the car on separate occasions and i thought to myself, i might as well put in new ones, and then i thought, nah and installed the old ones back in. 116k
I would not suggest doing this. The water pump and t-stat are scheduled maintenance items. They are not meant to last life of car. They are scheduled to be replaced before they fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
i want to confess too, i had both my water pump and thermostat out of the car on separate occasions and i thought to myself, i might as well put in new ones, and then i thought, nah and installed the old ones back in. 116k
Why did you have the WP and Thermostat out ?:
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Just rewatched a bunch of videos as pre-game.

BIMMER ZEIT does not loosen that Vanos bracket.
He just unbolts and removes the thermostat.
50sKid does loosen the bracket.
That is not needed, like 50sKid did, right?

I think the thermostat gasket leaks when people over tighten it.
Just like a valve cover gasket. It fails sealing when it's compressed.
I will not use RTV, and I will make sure to not overtighten.
 

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Can you elaborate? Why is this necessary?
Just something I've heard of. I imagine the belt can wear running in one direction and reversing it could cause issues. Better safe than sorry. This is from an Autozone site so take it for what it's worth, but about halfway down the page it specifies reinstalling the old belt in the same direction it came off. http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/BMW-Cars-1999-06/Engine-Mechanical-Components/Accessory-Drive-Belts/_/P-0900c152801b22fb
 

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It's been a while since I did the stat on my m54 and I don't remember taking any brackets off. My m52 requires the lifting hook to be removed because one of the bolts holding it goes through the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)



330i has 110k and both were original from 2001.
Impeller was in perfect condition. Water pump bearing seemed fine. No wobble at all.
Thermostat was working perfectly.
In highsight, and all during the repair, I was saying I should have just left it alone.
Probably did not need to do this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zViZbiFD5x4

Took me over 4 hours from start to finish.
This one was way harder than it was supposed to be.
1) Hoses were nearly impossible separate from the radiator.
2) Pulley was fused to the water pump. Took forever to remove
3) Water pump was PITA to remove. Removal bolt threads were mucked, and WP still stuck when they were bottomed out.
4) Water pump was hard to push back into place. Had to eventually bolt it down to get it to seat.

I contemplated just leaving the 2 old radiator hoses, but it sucks to buy parts, not use them, and reinstall old ones.
The new pats would mock me from the shelf every time I went in the garage. Pussy!
It was now or never. Pry bar was nearly impossible to use, since everything is plastic.
The worst case is to break the existing part, and not be able to install the new part.
I had to keep yanking for like 15 mins straight until they gave.

Oh, and I mixed blue coolant with green. LOL.

Here are some tips for the next guy:

For the lower radiator hose, once I got some movement, I used a screwdriver to pry it off a little more.


In summary,
  1. Jack the car (Always 15 mins right there)
  2. Removing the undertray
  3. Remove airbox
  4. Remove fan
  5. Remove upper and lower hose (over an hour?)
  6. Did not need to loosen engine lift bracket
  7. Remove thermostat
  8. Pulley bolts (loosen)
  9. Detach belt
  10. Remove pulley
  11. Remove water pump
  12. Replace all.
  13. Bleeding,
  14. Test drive (making sure the 'stat goes from 96C to 93C)
Next day:
  • Top off coolant. Check for leaks.
  • Jack car.
  • Reinstall the undertray
 

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I understand the part about if it ain't broke, don't fix it but if you have the parts you just do it. My biggest fear about radiator hoses is breaking the necks on the radiator. The 4 hours isn't necessarily a bad thing, it just means you paid attention to details and didn't rush. I'm sure you'll get some flack about your coolant choice, but not from me. You just have fewer things to worry about now.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yup, I was worried about cracking the radiator and creating a whole new mess (and disabling the car for a few days)
I was very careful and sparing with the pry bar, but it was not coming off without the pry bar.
 
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