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So ive been upgrading to a newer version of a 3 series every year pretty much. Got rid of my e36 and got a e46. Got the car for a decent deal, 2004 330ci 119k miles. All it needed was a crankshaft sensor... or so i thought.

So basically, the car is having trouble starting up on cold start. Its got a new crankshaft sensor, new o2's, new camshaft sensors, cooling was all redone with its sensors too. When car has started, it will idle a tad rough so im 110% thinking fuel delivery. But when warm or when im driving, even spirited driving, there is no symptoms of failing fuel delivery..

When i start the car with no prime, i get limp mode, codes p0700 and p0335, which i honestly think are being thrown because of the 15 seconds of trying to start up and surging two- three times.

Now i thought the crankshaft would fix the problem, but it hasn't. Now i will let it prime for 20 seconds and it'll start after prime which leads to me to think fuel pump. Ive ordered the fuel pump and waiting for it to come. But i came to thinking.... can it also be fuel injectors? leaky injector is out the picture because when primed i don't smell gas. DICA valve? Maybe a vacuum leak? Vanos?

The car has a annoyingly loud consistent squeal coming from the brake pedal after driving for over 30 mins. It only ever comes on after the pedal is pressed. So that is one vacuum leak but it shouldn't effect start up?

Ive read up on post's on here but nothing is really matching up to what im getting.
 

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So basically, the car is having trouble starting up on cold start. Its got a new crankshaft sensor, new o2's, new camshaft sensors,
What makes you think engine with trouble starting on cold needs these new parts?
Now i thought the crankshaft would fix the problem, but it hasn't. Now i will let it prime for 20 seconds and it'll start after prime which leads to me to think fuel pump. Ive ordered the fuel pump and waiting for it to come.
Again, what makes you think it needs a new fuel pump?

You will be broke trying to fix it this way. Read the codes with a $15 OBD2 BluePeak dongle and $10 OBDFusion iphone app and save $$$ and times.
 

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2000 E46 323i, 3.0L, 2.8L and 2.0L Z3's
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Welcome to the forum

Have a read through the IMPORTANT LINKS page. There you will find threads on how to get help and many of the common E46 problems.

When you changed the crankshaft sensor, did you remove the old O ring? There has been a case where the old O ring stayed in the block and the owner fitted the new O ring on the sensor and into the block. This meant that there where 2 O rings in place, which stepped the sensor just far enough away from the tooth wheel to cause intermittent start problems.

Cold start problems that disappear 30 seconds to a minute after starting are typically caused by vacuum leaks.
  • With a hot engine at idle, record the 4 fuel trims. If any are > 8%, then you likely have a vacuum leak.
  • Rev the engine to 3,000 rpm for 30 seconds and watch the STFT's
  • If the STFT's drop significantly, might even go negative, then it is confirmed that you have a vacuum leak to find. Smoke test the engine.
There is a couple of good threads in the Important Links page. One on how to smoke test and another on DIY lean fuel trim fixes.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Sounds like (?) you have no prime? To test, lift up rear seat, remove cover to access the fuel pump on the right side of the car. Twist the key to run (not start) position. You should hear the fuel pump run for about 2-5 seconds.
No sound?
Remove the connector and use a volt meter to check for power during the "prime phase". Also just as important to check the ground. W/O a proper ground, the power means nothing.

Report back.
 
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