E46 Fanatics Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First post
Car 2002 330ci convertible 130k miles
After having trouble with my car loosing lots of oil I went through an omnibus fixing spree spree to try to fix just about anywhere oil could be leaking as well as do some suggested replacement of parts. After fixing I ran into a new problem that I don’t know how to address and need advice on how to proceed.
What was done:
Day one
New cold weather CCV
New upper and lower intake boot
Cleaned idle control
Cleaned throttle body
New throttle body gasket
Checked disa (fine)
Did vale cover gasket used grey permetex on where recommended
Rebuilt vanos- just gaskets
New spark plugs
New maf filter (mann)
New cabin air filter (mann)
Heard a slight cracking noise when tightening the middle bolts over valve cover.
Car was fine oil was still low no codes
Days later
Did oil filter housing gasket
Dropped skid plate and aluminum brace
Replaced oil level gasket sensor (broken). Noticed a ton of oil in the aluminum brace near oil level sensor. Hoping this will fix that.
Changed oil- 0w 40 with new oil filter (mann)
Putting everything back together while spraying belt conditioner on belts got a check engine light.
Ran codes
DTC CA [202] oxygen sensor control, bank 1, control limit mixture limit rich
DTC CB [203] oxygen sensor control, bank 2, control limit rich
Shadow
DTC CA [202] oxygen sensor control, bank 1, control limit mixture limit rich
DTC CB [203] oxygen sensor control, bank 2, control limit rich
5A 90 short circuit to negative yellow
5B91 short circuit to negative yellow
5d93 short circuit to negative yellow
Read and cleared codes. Drove, parked, waited, started engine drove home everything fine. Parked in driveway smell of something burning through vents and some mist. Repeated process next day same exact result.
Engine seems to have a somewhat rough idle
At this point I fear that it is oil getting into cylinders through a potential crack in valve cover due to center bolts and grommets seemed over tightened if tightened to spec of rest of valve cover. Not sure because it did not show codes until days later even though the car had not been driven much (but was driven some.) I am at a loss, I try to fix this car and just get new problems. Help.:banghead:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,908 Posts
Engine is running Lean, not Rich. The first group of codes is very misleading. This is because you are using some sort of BMW specific scan tool.

The other errors "short circuit to negative yellow" are very vague.

What tool/software are you using for these codes?

The most likely problem is the engine has a vacuum leak, you may have created it, it may not be related to the work you performed. You need to smoke the intake air path and crankcase to look for air leaks.

The oil leak is most likely the OFHG (Oil Filter Housing Gasket) and possibly the power steering hoses that swelled.

Also suggest you get the OBDFusion App and VeePeak interface from Amazon, much better tool for driveability. Less than $30 for the App and interface. Android requires the Bluetooth interface, iProducts requires the Wifi interface unless you want to spend more money and find a Bluetooth LE interface for your iProduct. I think the Carista Bluetooth LE interface is supported by OBDFusion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am using PAsoft. I have attached a photo of my codes. If it is a lean code it could potentially be the new air filter as well. Text
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,908 Posts
Lean condition is not due to a different air filter.

PA Soft is ok for some things, you want OBDFusion for driveability problems.

There is most likely an air leak in the intake air path.

Suggest you Smoke Test for leaks, this is the best way to find the problem quickly and accurately.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

https://youtu.be/1sRZ5ves1DM

Cheap fluid transfer pump from your local auto parts store or Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Multi-Use...=1-1-spons&keywords=fluid+transfer+pump&psc=1

A few rubber gloves, rubber bands and some cheap mini cigars from our local gas station or convenience store.

Also get a good, bright LED flashlight to locate the escaping smoke. Look deep in the engine compartment and under the engine if needed. Do not forget the dipstick guide tube and the lower CCV oil return line. These areas may be hard to see from above in the engine compartment.

After looking for intake air leaks, remove the oil fill cap and allow the crankcase to fully fill up with smoke, then replace the oil fill cap. Check for cracks in the valve covers and leaks around the grommets, half moons and around the perimeter of the valve cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will have to give this a try. I know people have reported similar issues when replacing the pcv because of the O ring on the dipstick tube not creating a vacuum. hopefully it is a matter of incorrect seals on the or on the ofhg not a matter of a small potential crack in the valve cover. Question when it comes to smoking the engine will I see smoke coming out of the oil cap no matter what?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,908 Posts
Smoke should not escape from anywhere.

You want to remove the oil fill cap at some point to make 100% sure the crankcase is filled with smoke, then reinstall the oil fill cap.

Of smoke leaks around the oil fill cap it may need to be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE: the lower vac hose on my F connector that is attached to the upper intake boot was broken. This piece goes to the fuel filter. This piece was broken before but was not throwing codes. I fixed this reset the codes and let the car idle. Idle seemed a little better but still a little rough. The car threw a yellow check engine with the same codes. So that was not the source of the leak meaning there is a leak that is substantial and larger than just a simple vac hose. I will smoke test this weekend. I theorize that it may be the lower part of my PCV that was an absolute pain in the rear end to attach may not be attached all the way or a crack in the valve cover due to unintentional over torque during vcg replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE 2... more infomration. I cleaned my MAF sensor with compressed air looked fine. Idle still rough and still running codes. The air compressor is very loud when starting. When I remove my oil filer car suptters to almost stalling, similar when removing the oil dipstick, could this point to a loosness in my PCV replacement?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,908 Posts
Hose to fuel filter will broken will not cause a Lean code by itself.

Smoke test after each repair, often there is more than one problem.

CCV hoses are a common problem.

Power brake booster is a problem that often gets missed - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,642 Posts
I think the issue is the valve cover as OP wrote that there was a cracking sound when tightening the cover down. These covers go through repeated heating/cooling cycles. That makes the plastic brittle. Remove the cover and inspect it for cracks. I bet you'll find one!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,908 Posts
Why take the engine back apart, just smoke test the crankcase. This can be done through the intake, remove the oil fill cap until smoke comes out of the oil fill, then recap the oil fill.

May be best if the engine covers are removed to get a better view of the area around the coils and valve cover bolts and grommets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Solved

Smoke tested the engine and did not find anything. Took it to a indy mech and he found the vac leaks. I think it was at the bottom of my ccv as the pressure fit seals are so hard to get together. I/he found a leak in my coolant expansion tank. Everything solved, 600 bucks poorer though.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top