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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I changed my timing chain tensioner today. It sits on the passenger side of the engine block near the A/C compressor. Very very easy DIY and I encourage this done as PM.

The chain tensioner itself is comprised of the bore, piston, and spring. The bore and piston do not need to be replaced.

Tools required:

1/2" breaker bar
32mm socket (contrary to online postings, does not need to be "deep.") I used a standard socket.

Torque wrench = torque tensioner to 51.6 ft-lbs

1/2" swivel extension for torque wrench.

Tips:

Remove windshield washer tank. Unplug washer pump and level sensor. Remove one 10mm bolt on top of washer tank and set aside in drug bin (hose will still be connected)

The rest is self explanatory. You must use a breaker bar. That thing was in there super tight.

Required parts:

Chain tensioner spring: BMW part number - 11411706809 $3.51 @ rmeuropean.com

Chain tensioner aluminum crush washer -26x31x2mm: BMW part number: 07119963418 $0.26

10 minutes of your time.

Observations:

As you can see, the new tensioner spring is taller than the old one. I'll drive it later and post up any observations, if any, that pertain to engine operation/noise.





 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Doesn't require removing the VC or anything, just that tank? If so, sounds like a "Why not?" job.
yes sir. direct access once tank is removed. just drove it. i hate saying stuff like this but engine operation does seem more a bit more refined/quieter. it's likely placebo but not that far fetched considering how much taller the new spring is than the old one. either case, it's a "why not" job as you say. definitely will help prevent chain stretch
 

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Good call then. I'll probably do that since it is that easy and cheap and often overlooked.
 

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I believe 1-1/4" can be used for 32mm. It's pretty close anyway, 32mm = 1.26 inches.

Are there no seals in the piston/cylinder? Ten minutes and four dollars is pretty much a no brainer. Nice post! :thumbsup:
 

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take some photo and walk us noob through?
See the "nut" where the finger in the photo is directed? Remove it. Amazingly simple. Even I could handle this one.
 

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awesome write up sir! ordered mine yesterday.

two questions:
I read on another DIY that the torque is 47ft-lb for the M54. did you get your reading from the Bentley? ..boy do I miss TIS.
second question, does the piston just "spring away" from the cylinder or do you have to pull everything apart to unlatch it from the grooves? not one DIY was clear how to separate the tensioner.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is not a DIY. Just an informational thread. I googled the torque spec. Don't know where the original source was from. Whether it's 47 or 51, doesn't matter
 

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Good work (once again). I realize it was PM but:

- how many miles were on your car when you replaced it?
- were there any symptoms you experienced to warrant this?

Thx again for the writeup.
 

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If it's 32mm, isn't that the same size as the fan clutch bolt on an automatic? Perhaps some folks already have a wrench in their tool box that will fit in that case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good work (once again). I realize it was PM but:

- how many miles were on your car when you replaced it?
- were there any symptoms you experienced to warrant this?

Thx again for the writeup.
No symptoms. Just being good about maintenance as usual. This should be done at any mileage.

If it's 32mm, isn't that the same size as the fan clutch bolt on an automatic? Perhaps some folks already have a wrench in their tool box that will fit in that case.
You aren't getting a fan clutch tool in there.
 
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