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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So... I took it upon myself to change my CCV. I knew something was wrong somewhere in the ventilation system because I was getting those charming chewbacca noises when I removed my oil cap. I did it myself mainly to learn more about my car and also to save myself the 500 or more in labour costs.
(which, despite the money savings, did indeed suck monkey cack.)

Anyways, the thing is, after getting everything back into the car and starting the car, revving it up, and listening to the engine, checking for leaks and noises my engine threw a CEL code (great!). Of course my heart stopped, b/c I really didn't want to rip everything out again to search for a vacuum leak :thumbdwn:

However, after checking the bay out thoroughly I realized that in all my wisdom I forgot to plug the friggen DISA electrical plug back in :facepalm: I figure this must have caused the code to be thrown, but I'm not 100%, as the code wasn't thrown immediately, but only after I revved the car up to 4000 RPMs in neutral.

My question is this: could that missing electrical plug have thrown the code? Is that possible? And after plugging it back in, should it have gone away, or does it need to be cleared with a tool?

A little more info:

The car sounds fine as far as I can tell. I don't hear any high pitched whining or hissing, no chewbacca noises or honks (with or without oil cap on). It runs decently too (I drove it agressively up and down the street to see if I could notice anything that might be off, i.e. noises, excessive fuel consumption, lack of power, rough idle, etc.). I didn't notice anything. Car runs fine, no noises, idle is normal, acceleration is a little better than before and it doesn't hesitate or stall at all throughout the full range of its revolutions.

When I remove the oil cap the engine's idle does dip, but does not stall, and then recovers. There is a light suction if I put my hand over the oil cap hole.



I've ordered a peake tool to clear the code and also just b/c I should get one, but since it'll take a week or so to arrive, I'm just wondering if you guys could share some insight (and maybe calm my mind, since I REALLLLLLLLY don't want to rip out the whole effin air delivery system again to check all the misc. hoses and gaskets....).

Thanks!

(I'll move this thread if someone feels it ought to be elsewhere, like the DIY section).
 

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The DISA is opened at around 4100 RPM, so your rev to >4000 would have caused the ECU to try to open it. It did likely set the code because of the disconnected DISA.
http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/BMW_docs/m54x5.pdf (yes this is for the X5 but the majority also covers the E46 M54 engine)

It may go away on its own. Some codes take as many as 40-80 drive cycles without the error before they will clear.

Check for the code anyway when you get your reader, even if the light goes off, let us know what code it set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Got my Peake tool today and went out first thing to read the fault codes on my bimmer. I bolded the more important stuff, the rest you can skim.

This is what I got:

15 (VANOS Solenoid, intake)
92 EVAP Capillary Leak 0.5mm detected
7C DISA Flap control
0A Coolant temperature sensor


So, code 7C doesn't worry me, since I left it unplugged and ran the car over 4100 RPM, thus causing the flap to open and create a CEL (Shanneba said this above, and I've confirmed it with my local mechanic).

Code 0A on the other hand confuses me.... Anyone know what it might mean? (I did have my belt break and the car did get a bit hot because the water pump wasn't running--but it never threw a CEL at that time and the car didn't overheat. I heard a thump, looked at my coolant temp gauge, saw it rising fast, and shut the car off immediately.) Could this be a latent code from that incident??? Could it be because I unplugged the coolant temp sensor while I was replacing the CCV?

Code 92 is not something I wanted to see, but I need to find out whether this CEL is from the intake manifold up to the throttle body, or from the CCV hoses. Can a CCV leak even throw a CEL? I mean, when my valve was pooched prior to the replacement it never threw any CEL.

Code 15 I've heard about the VANOS solenoids needing to be replaced on these cars, but I don't know much about it so I'll have to look into it. I'm hoping that this is related to the DISA not being plugged in. Even though I'm not familiar with replacing the VANOS, it sounds like it's probably a *****.

So, guys, if you have any light to shed on these codes, their meanings, causes and solutions. PLLLLLLLEASE let me know.

EDIT****

Oh yeah, I cleared the CEL and turned the car on; revved up to 4000-5000 RPM a couple times, sustained the revolutions around 4500 for 5 seconds or so just to listen. I "think" I can hear a vaccuum leak (the hood was up). It's a hissing noise, but since I've never done this before I have no basis for comparison.

Anyways, car didn't throw another CEL.

I gotta ask... are the codes in the Peake Manual all causes of the CEL indicator? Or are some latent and therefore do not cause the CEL light to go off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The first time the car was started I forgot to plug the DISA electrical connector in (Yeah, major doh!). But now everything is definitely plugged in.


The only reason I forgot to plug the DISA back in was because I cleaned it, took a piss while it was drying, and forgot I had unplugged it in the first place. Everything else is plugged in. I taped and labelled all connections during tear down so I'm pretty positive about this; I've also checked the compartment over a couple times.
 

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I gotta ask... are the codes in the Peake Manual all causes of the CEL indicator? Or are some latent and therefore do not cause the CEL light to go off?
First, thanks for using our product.

Our typical advice when reading a number of codes on the first try is to clear everything, drive normally, and see what returns. This will weed out the historical codes that may no longer present a problem. Once you know what's active, focus your diagnostic efforts on those areas.

Best of luck!

Ken
 

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A little bit OT but when I did my CCV a few weeks ago, I forgot to reconnect the throttle body connector! (@#$%#&) My dash lit up like a christmas tree, and needless to say ran like crap. Luckily it didn't take long to figure it out, but I had to re-disassemble a bunch of things to get to and plug it back in. I then had to drive to Autozone to rent the scan tool to clear the codes before it would run.

Bottom line is once I cleared them everything was good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In the unlikely event someone runs into the exact same problems/codes as me, I'll add what I've learned about the codes I got.

15 (VANOS Solenoid, intake) - This is a fairly common problem on the E46. The seals on the VANOS have a tendency to go South within the first 100'000 Kilometers (60'000 miles). The dealer doesn't make new seals and only sells the whole vanos unit (around $500-$800). Besian systems sells a kit that allows you to replace the shot seals on the VANOS and save yourself a load of cash.

For me, my VANOS may need to be replaced (although the only symptom I have is a bit of an abrupt jump in take off when depressing the gas pedal during acceleration from 1st... which could be my throttle cable or perhaps something else). The code could also be leftover from previous owners. This may not cause a CEL code; but can be detected w/the scan tool.

92 EVAP Capillary Leak 0.5mm detected - There's less info on this code, but its got to do with the fuel system. Most people determine it's the fuel breather valve or one of the lines that has a slight leak. But usually it's the valve not closing. Sometimes, though I can't confirm it, it could be the charcoal canister. Although this seems a bit of an odd part to leak.... Either way, best to check the lines and replace/check/clean the valve before switching out the charcoal canister (it's like a $300-400 part!). This could also be caused by a loose gas cap or fuel filter.... most likely an easy/cheap fix, but the trouble is finding the damn leak. Often this code won't cause a CEL and can only be detected when using the scan tool (Peake).

7C DISA Flap control - The immediate cause of this for me was leaving the damn thing unplugged.... It could also be caused by a malfunctioning DISA. Resolution: remove and check the DISA flap. If it's broken, replace. If it isn't, try cleaning the part and it's electrical connections & ensure you're getting a proper seal against the intake. This will almost always cause a CEL.

0A Coolant temperature sensor - the lower rad hose has a coolant temp sensor that should be replaced whenever the rad hose is replaced. This is b/c the sensor forms to the hose, and using an old sensor in a new hose could result in an imperfect fit. The hose is about $30, and the sensor about $25. This isn't the commonly replaced "Thermostat" part on the upper part of the cooling system. This code usually means the sensor isn't working properly and needs to be replaced. It can also mean the coolant has over heated.

I researched the first 3 codes quite extensively, but the last code not so much. So please, definitely make sure you do some more legwork on that one if you come across it.

PS. prices are in Canadian dollars.
 

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If you or prior owner had done vcg, or maybe a cam pos sensor, the intake vanos solenoid would have been unplugged...and I know I forgot to plug it in...found it a week later...code disappeared almost immediately.

But, on the hissing sound...try to isolate it with my favorite tool...a 5' hose...garden or something stiff so you can move it around without having it blown into the fan or pulleys...you can get right to a hiss.

Since you did ccv, next popular hiss is the lower intake boot...the elbow going to the icv.

But, also, the vac line going into upper boot, on mine, was a dicey connection when I put it back in...so I put a dab of rtv on it...and also, things like the o-ring behind disa can leak air (newer disa's than mine, just have gasket...and guys put rtv on it when reassembling...similarly, tb and icv have rubber behind...so depending on the age of your car...next trip in that area, just try to tighten things up.

If you don't have a code now...that's good...and yes, the codes stay stored until cleared, so potentially, some of those could be ancient.

HTH

Doug
 
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