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my e46 328ci never had problems starting up until i overheated last week due to an antifreeze leak which is fixed now. Someone help. Battery is at 80 percent i put new spark plugs in and also tried jumping. Car clicks once like it does in the video and then turn off. But when i try to start it with a jump it sounds like it does in the video? Is it my starter cyliniod? ( misspelled ) what is it? A weak connection? Also my eml light has came on as of the second day of working on it. It comes on and off.
 

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It could still be a low battery. 80% isn't great...and you need amps as well as voltage.

If you can, charge it overnight. If not, keep the jumping cars connected for at least 5 mins. or maybe longer before trying to start.

I've had a low battery before, and that's exactly the clicking it does.

If your battery is over 4-5 years old...probably a good time to replace it for $100 and forget about it for a few years.
 

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my e46 328ci never had problems starting up until i overheated last week due to an antifreeze leak which is fixed now. Someone help. Battery is at 80 percent i put new spark plugs in and also tried jumping. Car clicks once like it does in the video and then turn off. But when i try to start it with a jump it sounds like it does in the video? Is it my starter cyliniod? ( misspelled ) what is it? A weak connection? Also my eml light has came on as of the second day of working on it. It comes on and off.
The clicking is the starter pinion coming in, turning it a bit and then retracting back, most likely a wiring issue. Not sure if it has something to do with overheating but Ira possible that some wire could be damaged, had a cable melt its isolation on the headers for example and then shorting. Never seen this happen tho so it's just a guess, but I'd probably try to check if there aren't any wires in contact with the block, head or the exhaust manifold.

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The clicking is the starter pinion coming in, turning it a bit and then retracting back, most likely a wiring issue. Not sure if it has something to do with overheating but Ira possible that some wire could be damaged, had a cable melt its isolation on the headers for example and then shorting. Never seen this happen tho so it's just a guess, but I'd probably try to check if there aren't any wires in contact with the block, head or the exhaust manifold.

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Yea it started smoking out my cracked coolant tank but that is replaced. There is also acid on my positive side of the battery i cleaned it off a couple days ago and it started to build up again. My battery is old because this is a used car i got ( for a budget build )
 

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Yea it started smoking out my cracked coolant tank but that is replaced. There is also acid on my positive side of the battery i cleaned it off a couple days ago and it started to build up again. My battery is old because this is a used car i got ( for a budget build )
You said your battery is old and is 80% charged? What do you mean by 80%? Because a car battery needs almost full voltage to start the car, even though it's a 12V battery, when the car is off it can have 12,3-13 or even more volts. If your battery is below 11,8V it is already unlikely to start, although that depends on the battery. If your car battery goes below 9,something, you won't be even able to charge it again. So I don't know how you got 80% but that is 9,6V out of 12V, in that case the battery is done for.

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You said your battery is old and is 80% charged? What do you mean by 80%? Because a car battery needs almost full voltage to start the car, even though it's a 12V battery, when the car is off it can have 12,3-13 or even more volts. If your battery is below 11,8V it is already unlikely to start, although that depends on the battery. If your car battery goes below 9,something, you won't be even able to charge it again. So I don't know how you got 80% but that is 9,6V out of 12V, in that case the battery is done for.

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I went to my nearest autozone to have them test it? He said it was 80% i never got a battery tested bro so i just went with it lol. And yes it is old at least to my knowledge i didn’t put this battery in it came from a sloppy car lot
 

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I went to my nearest autozone to have them test it? He said it was 80% i never got a battery tested bro so i just went with it lol. And yes it is old at least to my knowledge i didn’t put this battery in it came from a sloppy car lot
Get a charger and charge it overnight. You also want to do this: remove all spark plugs then crank it again (watch to see if any kind of liquid shootout during cranking) . Overheated engine can crack the cylinder head and if coolant got inside causing hydro-lock then starter cannot turn it.
 

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Get a charger and charge it overnight. You also want to do this: remove all spark plugs then crank it again (watch to see if any kind of liquid shootout during cranking) . Overheated engine can crack the cylinder head and if coolant got inside causing hydro-lock then starter cannot turn it.
I will try it tomorrow, i swapped out the plugs and coils today tho, it was really clean for a car to be 20 years old. Made me smile lol i thought i would have to get a new head gasket or something but it looks really clean. I need to stop neglecting my baby because it was a really good find for the price i got it for.
 

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I went to my nearest autozone to have them test it? He said it was 80% i never got a battery tested bro so i just went with it lol. And yes it is old at least to my knowledge i didn’t put this battery in it came from a sloppy car lot
That's weird, I've never had a battery tested so idk, but you can just buy a multimeter for 10€ and measure the voltage

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So the clicking noise is actually the starter engaging the flywheel. Also witnessed by the engine moving ever so slightly in little increments.

There are several reasons such could happen:
By far the MOST common reason is low voltage. Usually a weak battery. However the single hardest thing a battery needs to do is start the engine. Some 180 to as much as 300 Amps are needed to rotate the engine to start it. If any of the cables delivering the juice from the battery all the way in the back of the car, up through the jump post (a common loose point BTW) then over the the starter. Also at the starter there is another double connection with an additional wire running up to the alternator. This wire resupplies the battery with current after the car starts.

I would first remove/clean ALL the connections of both battery cables (many forget about the grounds and the ground straps) and after the battery is clean thoroughly charge it to remove that out of the equation. Then move up to the jumping post under the hood and make sure the nut on the underside is tight. There's 2 cables there: One bring the juice from the battery forward and another carrying it over to the starter. Then check the big nut on the starter (oh battery should be momentarily disconnected to avoid your wrench touching any bare metal) by loosening and then re-tighten. Cleaning the cable ends is a plus. Following all the way through, might as well check the wire from the back of the alternator (the big one under the black colored 17mm nut) so all of that is settled.

Then lest we not forget about the grounds, just as important as the positive cables. Ground strap for the engine. Also the negative cable from the - side of the battery to the battery box.

If the battery is truly good and doesn't fall on it's face during a cranking (load) you have the amperage/voltage question answered.

Okay, now if it still does the same thing? Could be the starter is just old and tired? Does using a jump significantly improve things? (points to bad battery and.or connections.)

Could also be that during the overheating episode something very bad happened to the engine and it's very tight? A starter can only do so much.
How do you check?

My first test would be to remove the spark plugs/coils. Try cranking the engine. If is extremely fast could be the starter. If little improvement (ruh-roh) the engine could be tight as a result of the overheat.
Remove the fan up front (plugs still out) get a socket and a 1/2 long ratchet. Spin the engine by hand with the tool and see if it's too tight.

I only wish I could supply you with a value. Having spun thousands of engines over the years (we used to do something called a valve adjustment) it's an experience thing.

Check the battery and all the connections and report back.
 

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my e46 328ci never had problems starting up until i overheated last week due to an antifreeze leak which is fixed now. Someone help. Battery is at 80 percent i put new spark plugs in and also tried jumping. Car clicks once like it does in the video and then turn off. But when i try to start it with a jump it sounds like it does in the video? Is it my starter cyliniod? ( misspelled ) what is it? A weak connection? Also my eml light has came on as of the second day of working on it. It comes on and off.
80% of 12.8 volts is 10.25 volts. No chance. Nowhere near enough. Charge it overnight using at least a 4 amp charger.
 

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I am assuming the shop used a good load tester and what they are referring to is a 20% drop in voltage when a load is put on it. 12.8 Standing voltage is a good number. A voltage reading of 10.5 under load (for at least 10 seconds) should turn the car over more than what shows on the video. Forum members feel free to weigh in here with your experiences. This has been my experience and I also double checked it on the internet. If you are not sure how they tested it then;

Do you have access to a load tester? I've found that you need around a 400-500 amp load tester to really find out if your battery is good or not. A 100 amp load tester is not going to cut it. The 500 amp ones are heavy and well built. I don't mean for you to buy one. Many shops have something like this. My dad was in the car battery biz. He used to use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-1874-Carbon-Battery/dp/B014T7HL3I

Just to check the shops findings, if you don't have a load tester but you have a volt meter, test the standing voltage of the battery. While the testing leads are on the battery posts engage the starter. Watch what happens to the battery voltage. If it drops significantly and your voltge doesn't bounce back, your battery is probably toast. As BigBopper (love that name) states above, charge the battery fully before doing this. There is no way to diagnose the problem with out a fully charged battery. I would follow MrMCars advice (anytime) especially if you think the battery is good.
 

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I am assuming the shop used a good lead tester and what they are referring to is a 20% drop in voltage when a load is put on it. 12.8 Standing voltage is a good number. A voltage reading of 10.5 under load (for at least 10 seconds) should turn the car over more than what shows on the video. Forum members feel free to weigh in here with your experiences. This has been my experience and I also double checked it on the internet. If you are not sure how they tested it then;

Do you have access to a load tester? I've found that you need around a 400-500 amp load tester to really find out if your battery is good or not. A 100 amp load tester is not going to cut it. The 500 amp ones are heavy and well built. I don't mean for you to buy one. Many shops have something like this. My dad was in the car battery biz. He used to use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-1874-Carbon-Battery/dp/B014T7HL3I

Just to check the shops findings, if you don't have a load tester but you have a volt meter, test the standing voltage of the battery. While the testing leads are on the battery posts engage the starter. Watch what happens to the battery voltage. If it drops significantly and your voltge doesn't bounce back, your battery is probably toast. As BigBopper (love that name) states above, charge the battery fully before doing this. There is no way to diagnose the problem with out a fully charged battery. I would follow MrMCars advice (anytime) especially if you think the battery is good.
So my car started after the charge. But now i ran into another problem. It isn’t idling rough, it’s idiling severely ugly. Jump from 0 to almost 3, did i connect something back wrong???
 

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I took almost everything off in this area to try to get to the starter. Then i stopped and realized it was for no reason. It was my battery. I put everything back on. ( i did not take off the throttle boot because it was stuck on there because of the zip ties) and now it’s jumping.
 

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So my car started after the charge. But now i ran into another problem. It isn’t idling rough, it’s idiling severely ugly. Jump from 0 to almost 3, did i connect something back wrong???
First of all 2 hours on a charger isn't long enough. Overnight like I said. There are lots of possible reasons why it's idling ugly. You gonna need a bit more info. You got a scanner to read the computer's data and codes? Is that picture what the car looks like now as you're running it? It's not going to run right in that condition with most of the intake missing. You need to put it all back together and then run it.
 

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First of all 2 hours on a charger isn't long enough. Overnight like I said. There are lots of possible reasons why it's idling ugly. You gonna need a bit more info. You got a scanner to read the computer's data and codes? Is that picture what the car looks like now as you're running it? It's not going to run right in that condition with most of the intake missing. You need to put it all back together and then run it.
Yea i charged it overnight, and that’s how it started today. But no i do not, i will go get one from my nearest store tho, because this is a headache lol. I didn’t need a starter and i tried to take stuff off to get to the starter and now it’s like i caused an issue myself trying to fix something that isn’t broken. Now i got the main problem fixed then it’s like i ran into another issue.
 

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Yea i charged it overnight, and that’s how it started today. But no i do not, i will go get one from my nearest store tho, because this is a headache lol. I didn’t need a starter and i tried to take stuff off to get to the starter and now it’s like i caused an issue myself trying to fix something that isn’t broken. Now i got the main problem fixed then it’s like i ran into another issue.
You got to reassemble it to test it. Air filter box with air filter. MAF. Upper intake boot with the F connector and vacuum hoses in place one of which is connected to fuel filter pressure regulator. it's going to run like crap if you don't.
 

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You got to reassemble it to test it. Air filter box with air filter. MAF. Upper intake boot with the F connector and vacuum hoses in place one of which is connected to fuel filter pressure regulator. it's going to run like crap if you don't.
What does that look like? I am connecting everything and everything back together right now hopefully it comes back to normal.
 
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