BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all! I Come to you because I have run out threads to read and possible ideas to fixing this problem...I'll start from the top...

3 months ago my wife calls one late afternoon saying that the car would not start. Ii turned out to be a bad fuel pump. I also knew that there was a moderate oil leak so I went searching for it and found one of the breather hoses of the CCV broke in half. So i replaced the fuel pump and the CCV and all four hoses to be on the safe side. The car was back 100%, however 3 days later, the car started stalling, it would crank longer than usual at startup and when it did start the car would be in limp mode, with a jumpy idle. Also the oil leak continued.

Took the car to a independent BMW shop in town, where they found a oil filter housing leak, power steering hose leak. They also said that perhaps the oil leak was affecting the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor(CPS) and that could be the cause of the abnormal reving and stalling. That there didn't make any sense to me, so I pickup the car and went home and replaced the oil filter housing gasket, the CPS and the three leaking power steering hoses. After all that the car was still acting up. At this point the car only displayed the SES, Service engine and yellow brake lights on the dash.

Decided to take it to the stealership for a diagnostic...and as I expected the came back with a bad CPS reading. I told them that the part was just changed (OEM) and that i couldn't be. The proceeded to switch out the CPS to see if it was faulty, but the fault code was still present so the went to say that there was a possibility that the Engine Harness may be at fault...that didn't make sense to me...they were basing their diagnosis on the fact the the CPS plug clip had been broken (this happen will changing the CPS for the 1st time 3 years ago...). So after reading a few posting, I realized that I hadn't update the car's DME, so while in the shop I had the guys at the stealership update the DME with the lastest software. This step didn't resolve any of the problems.

Needless to say i did feel like wasting $1000 to have the dealership exchange the engine harness to see if that was the problem...So i took the car back home, started going over all the jobs i had done, making sure that there wasn't any loose plugs or anything else that could create a problem. Put everything back together and started the car and I noticed two things the car was now cranking as usual and the EML light had just come on. At this point the car was acting almost normal, and it was drivable until the car reached operating temperature, at which the car would go back to Limp Mode and the jumpy reving, also a new problem appear that only seemed to happen while cold, there was a clicking sound just like a lifter and a knocking sound that would come and go as rev'd the car.

Took the car to AutoZone to read codes an the following codes appeared:

P0121 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0221 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0369 - "i dont have a description for this code"
P1620 - MAP Cooling Control Circuit Signal High
P1632 - Throttle Position Sensor Supply Voltage

So I decided to go ahead and replace both Camshaft Sensor to bee on the safe side, but problems would not go away....

Went back to autozone to scan the code, all code are still present except that the P0336 is now a P0335...

Don't know what else to do, please HELP!!!!:banghead:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
MAF ? Bad fuel lines (mine were leaking and loosing pressure ? that was the problem with mine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
For some reason im thinking DISA valve, if you say ticking like a lifter and car goes into lymph mode then it could be that OR idle control valve. Happened to me 297.00 at stealership and everything worked fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,340 Posts
replace your throttle position sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replies...

I'm yet to service my MAF, I did it some 20k miles ago...I do also think the ICV could be playing a part on it, which would explain why the car gets progressively worse as it warms up, but I would have expected some sort of fault code for it...I'll check it out..

My last try will be to try to replace the TPS...although I'm having trouble understanding if it is in the throttle body or not...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
i had it. it was engine harness. it stalled every now and then, and dropped to almost 0 like it was going to stall. then eventually one day it didnt want to rev and wouldnt really drive. engine harness. now its fixed. sorry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeap....engine harness for me too...parts were $351 + shipping...pelicanparts....It took me about 1 1/2 to install....pain in the a$$ to take down, but installing is a lot easier!!! Hope it helps...there's also a possibility that the throttle body may have to be changed..just depending on its manufacturing date, the TSB calls for throttle body manufactured prior to may.02 to be replaced....
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top