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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, so my 02 330 has started to misfire. when at idle it will mis 1 time every second or two. when you take off it will rapidly misfire for about 1 second and then go. when cruising it will mis more slowly, maybe 1 time every 3 seconds. basically more load, more misfires. doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot. doesn't matter if you been driving for 30 min, still does this. They are spontaneous and not uniform.
i do have 2 lean codes ( 227 & 228 ) they come and go on the weekly. cant seem to get them to stay away. but no cylinder misfire codes.
Here’s what I've done so far to try and fix it.
Changed the spark plugs with new ones, no luck. then tried a known working set, no luck.
Replaced MAF, then tried a known working MAF. no luck. oddly enough i started it with the MAF unplugged and the damn thing still misfired. so that alone should tell you the MAF is not causing it.
checked for vacuum leaks, there are none. actually when i had the smoke machine plugged in i couldn't believe there was no smoke anywhere so i though it wasn't on, well i cracked open the oil fill cap and and the pressure had built up and blew the cap off. needless to say, there are no vacuum leaks.
tested the crank case vacuum, with engine at idle water displacement was about 4.25" so the crank case vacuum is almost dead perfect.
Next I did a fuel pressure test, came out to 46psi with no dipping at all. Also it can’t be bad gas because I’ve ran 3 tanks of gas through it since it started doing this.

Anyone got anymore ideas?
I have read the forum on here about misfires. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
Tried everything, still having 0 luck.

And i apologize in advance for any spelling mistakes. english isn't my first language.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, I have not... and the only reason is because In the past when a coil was dying I always got a misfire code. I do actually have 5 spare good coils. Tomorrow I'll switch some around and see if I get any luck.
 

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The Lean codes are likely causing the misfires. Doubt the coils will help your problems.

Not sure what OBDII tool you are using, but since you do not have Pxxxx codes and are stating only 3 digit codes, your tool probably does not support Live/Realtime or Freeze Frame data.

For $30 or less you need the OBDFusion App and proper interface.

You also need to smoke test the intake and crankcase to look for leaks.

Suggest you read this post - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=17032840&postcount=19
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Lean codes are likely causing the misfires. Doubt the coils will help your problems.
The scanner I'm using is a Snap-on versa pro. I also have the BMW scan tool but it doesn't show any more codes, does have different numbers for them though.

There are 0 vacuum leaks. Not a single one. That's sorta why I started a new thread. To see if there is anything else I haven't tried.
Also I forgot to put in the first post, but I also did a compression test. And all the cylinders were fine.
 

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So I will tell you, even though you have a Pro Level scan tool you still need OBDFusion.

Also you need to use the OBDII section of the Snap-On tool rather than the Scanner section. While the Scanner section may be useful for some things, the OBDII section is FAR better for driveability.

You will get Pxxxx DTC formatted codes, you will get Freeze Frame data and the MAF reading will be in grams/second rather than kilograms/hour which is what typically shows up in the Scanner section.

I have a hard time convincing people that OBDFusion is as good as a tool as it is, they see $20-$30 for the App and interface and think it is crap. It is VERY powerful if you know how to use it. It can Log which the majority of the Pro Level tools DO NOT do. They may graph, but even this is pretty much garbage IMHO.

If you are sure you have no vacuum leaks, then the Lean condition can and will be due to the MAF, a soft fuel pump or the O2 sensor wiring mixed up, power brake booster leaking vacuum (which rarely shows up when looking for vacuum leaks) or some combination of them.

Trust me, I have a Snap-On Solus Ultra, MODIS, Autel MaxiDAS, Launch tools, Carly for BMW, Schwaben Professional BMW scanner, BWM specific software, but the first tool that usually comes out is OBDFusion for any driveability issue.

See these links for some more ideas as what you can do with OBDFusion:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1041726

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1050205&highlight=
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I will tell you, even though you have a Pro Level scan tool you still need OBDFusion.
I do have a universal Bluetooth adapter I use with torque but I doubt it will work with that app.

I'll look into getting a new one.

When I do the smoke test I do it straight from the brake booster hose. I'll do it from somewhere else and see if anything is leaking over there.

When you are watching the pre-cat o2's, what voltages do yours bounce between. Mine only bounce from .4 to .6 volts and not very quickly. I know on American cars then flip back and fourth rapidly and with a large voltage range.

Also, on the intake boot with the F connector coming off it. There's a big hose, and a small hose. Where does that small one go to? I snapped the nipple off the F connector by accident.
I seen ECS has a metal one they just brought out a few months ago. Might pick that up
 

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I do have a universal Bluetooth adapter I use with torque but I doubt it will work with that app.

I'll look into getting a new one.

When I do the smoke test I do it straight from the brake booster hose. I'll do it from somewhere else and see if anything is leaking over there.

When you are watching the pre-cat o2's, what voltages do yours bounce between. Mine only bounce from .4 to .6 volts and not very quickly. I know on American cars then flip back and fourth rapidly and with a large voltage range.

Also, on the intake boot with the F connector coming off it. There's a big hose, and a small hose. Where does that small one go to? I snapped the nipple off the F connector by accident.
I seen ECS has a metal one they just brought out a few months ago. Might pick that up
If you have Torque, the Bluetooth interface will work with OBDFusion assuming you are running an Android platform.

Torque will do most of what OBDFusion will, however, I gave up on Torque a LONG time ago for many reasons. OBDFusion is only $3.99 last I checked and I like it far more than Torque for driveability and Logging. Torque is buggy and does not properly support all Wideband O2 sensors last I looked at it.

You cannot just look at O2 sensor activity and get any idea as to what is really going on, you will need to Log and graph the O2 sensor behavior. 3 Logs will be needed. 4 minutes each, Cold Start, Warm Idle and Highway Cruise.

But lets forget about the O2 sensors for the moment. I do not think your problem is due to O2 sensors at this point. As long as the O2 sensor are working reasonably well, then they should not be a problem.

The F connector can be plugged for now. You do not need a metal once, just the regular replacement is fine. The small hose from the F connector is the fuel pressure regulator atmospheric reference. It is NOT a vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator as there is NO manifold vacuum at this point, it is just filtered atmospheric air. You can just leave the small hose loose for now, just plug the broken part of the F connector until you can get a replacement.

Mentioning fuel pressure, I believe 46 PSI is slightly low, I want to say it should be closer to 50 PSI, however, gauges are often off by a bit a well. I am a firm believer in Fuel Pump PM by 80k miles on these cars anyway.

What is the back history on the car??

What work was performed before the misfiring started?

Has the MAF been changed?

Have the O2 sensors been disconnected for a valve cover gasket replacement? I assume so because of the VANOS work?

Have you verified that the O2 sensor wiring is correct?

Suggest you check this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1046474
 

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Discussion Starter #9
heres the history
it all started last summer, never any problems until one day the brake booster vac line dry rotted. replaced that, still lean codes. since then i haven't been able to shake the codes. over the next 6 months i replaced (with new oem bmw parts), all vac lines, valve cover, throttle body, ccv twice, spark plugs, coils, both intake boots, MAF, dipstick tube, accelerator, disa, still couldn't shake these codes. smoke tested the car, found 2 leaks and sealed them. smoke tested again and there was nothing. still couldn't shake the codes. that entire time it would misfire at idle when cold but that was it. car started running fine when summer hit this year. had no problems other then the check engine light. just 3-4 weeks ago while i was driving it started to misfire way worse then ever before. right out of the blue. so i smoke tested it, found nothing. a new code was on there, cam position sensor came up. had that replaced 2 weeks ago, car ran great for 1 day, then started to misfire again. the lean codes came back then left. there have been no codes for the past week, but the car keeps on misfiring. the only reason i question the o2's is because they have never been changed and the car now has 230k on it.
are the o2 plugs on top of the fuel rail? if so they have never been unplugged, i always just put them under the wiper to keep them out of my way.
on the F connector i used heat shrink to cover the hole until i get a new one.
and i couldn't tell you the accuracy of the fuel pressure gauge, it's probably 15+ years old.
the only other thing i could possibly think of is the gas I'm using. and i highly doubt it, heres why. when the car hit 100k i started using mid grade instead of premium. never heard the car knock one time since i owned it.
 

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Need a full list of current or pending codes, Freeze Frame data which will ONLY be available if and only if the SES/CEL/MIL is on and warm idle Fuel Trim values.

You could have anything from a vacuum leak you cannot find (power brake booster leaking), a soft failing fuel pump, bad fuel, to oil or coolant that has make its way into one or more sensors and/or wicked up the wiring into the DME connections.

Might want to check these threads out -

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1052977

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=16833498&posted=1#post16833498

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=870338

This assumes you do not have one or more burnt exhaust valves.

Could also be a possible charging problem as well.

The problem is you have no real data for any judgment to be made. Internet support is hard enough, but data is really required.

You can chase the O2 sensors, BUT, bad/lazy O2 sensors usually will not detect a Lean condition, only sensors that are reasonably active. O2 sensors are Feedback devices, so if they are lazy they will not provide good feedback.

Sure they should be replaced at 100k miles as recommended, unless they have a problem before this (typically heater circuit failures), but there are plenty of cars that have reasonably functional O2 sensors at 175+k miles.

2 ways to deal with the problem, throw parts at it or gather data to see what is working right so you can hopefully figure out what is wrong.
 

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I believe these can cause misfire:

Smoke test (Intake boot leak, Vacuum line leak, Intake Manifold Gasket)
CCV
MAF
O2 sensor
Spark Plug
Spark Plug Boot
Coil (swap coil to test)
Camshaft position sensor
Crank position sensor
Fuel Pump
Idle Control Valve (ICV)
Oil in spark plug sockets from leaking VCG
 

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If a problem dogged me for this long, I'd have paid a mechanic $200 to find the problem.
 

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If a problem dogged me for this long, I'd have paid a mechanic $200 to find the problem.
If it was this easy and cheap to get a vehicle fixed, there would not be forums like this and people DIY'ing.

Most mechanics spend no time diagnosing anything, they tend to jump to conclusions and do things like start by replacing the the most expensive but easy to change parts like the MAF.

The thing that is needed here is not a list of what the likely causes are, we all know what these are. What is needed is data. Unfortunately the wrong tool(s) and data are being gathered. There is a lot of confusion and misunderstanding that leads people to think that $2500 tools can do a better job that a $25 tool. This is rarely the case. Regardless of the tool used, the tool/software will never tell you what is wrong, they give clues on what may be wrong, but usually you need to figure out what is right to then figure out what is wrong. Process of elimination and using some basic skills to sort through what the data is presenting.

Often a process of elimination is how things get resolved. The average mechanic uses your wallet for the process of elimination. The OP claims no vacuum leaks, all we can do is assume this is correct, then move forward. But some basic data like Fuel Trims, Freeze Frame and DTC's or trouble codes in the Pxxxx format are where we need to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If it was this easy and cheap to get a vehicle fixed, there would not be forums like this and people DIY'ing
So an update, I did drain the gas tank and filled it up with premium and a injector cleaner for safe keeping and to just eliminate that whole ordeal.
Did a pressure test on the intake. Pulled a 10psi vacuum on the entire intake and it heald it for 5 min only dropping 1psi. Safe to assume there is no vac leaks. Maybe just a tiny bit of air somewhere but still.

I drive the car 200 miles trying to get it to throw codes. There are still none. Not even pending codes. Which I just can't wrap my mind around how that's possible.

Will be checking that DME connector for water damage maybe tonight.

So if I understand you correctly, when you say freeze frame data, you basically are asking for maps of the sensors over a duration of idling & driving time?
 

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Personally I would put a replacement fuel pump on the short list of things to replace.

As for Freeze Frame data, OBDII has something called Freeze Frame data. It is stored in the DME and only OBDII tools that can gather Freeze Frame data can display it. Most better quality OBDII tools support Freeze Frame data.

Freeze Frame data is ONLY available while the SES/CEL/MIL is on, possibly while a Pending code is present. Once you clear any codes/lights, the Freeze Frame data is also cleared.

Info would include things like RPM, Speed, Engine Temp, Fuel Trims, MAF reading etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Personally I would put a replacement fuel pump on the short list of things to replace.
Alright well I'll get a jump on it when the next time the light pops on.

In the mean time I ordered a new fuel pump and filter. I pulled the cover off to see the filter and about took a $hit. There's a tag around one of the line's that says "fuel filter, 04/27/2003"
That poor filter...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well jfoj, I put in a new pump and filter. Still missing. Waited for the codes to come back, and here is the freeze frame data. ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1471111248.538960.jpg
 

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Lots of cars run fine with a15 year old filter. It's not your culprit
 
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