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Discussion Starter #21
I got the T-45 bit, I am going to try it in a big crescent wrench. Vise-grip could not hold on tight enough...
 

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If you are still fighting this, an 8mm or so combo wrench should fit the flats on the t-45 bit/socket, then pass the box end of a big combo wrench (like a 19mm) over the end of the small 8mm wrench to increase length and that should give enough leverage to break that sucker loose ...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I got the crescent secured on the bit (while clearing the shifter cable) and gave it a smack. I thought the bit slipped in the crescent, so I got set up for another attempt and realized I had already broken the fill plug loose - easy peasy.

And no idea who "MSB" is. I found this wrench in my Great Uncle's toolbox. He was an aviation mechanic in the Navy back in the day. His initials were not MSB. So in my mind, this MSB fellow is out in his garage looking for his crescent wrench and cursing...
 

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Did all the old o-rings at top of neck of the old filter come out? Sometimes one of the thick orings on the old filter remains stuck in the bore of the valve body and it needs to be carefully removed before installing new filter.

That picture of the new filter looks like it sits pretty far from valve body (though pictures can be decieving).
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yes, I did get both the orange rings out!
I had to use my machinist scribe to pull them out.
The car is on ramps, so there is not much room. Taking the picture was difficult, so it could be skewed.
Do you think I should drop the pan again and push the filter in some more?
 

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If you removed all the old orings, confirmed bore was clear, and fully seated the new filter then you should be good. If you think the filter can go in further, then now is the time to go back in.

Like I said before pictures can be deceiving, and camera angles do funny things sometimes, so was just pointing out the potential issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If you removed all the old orings, confirmed bore was clear, and fully seated the new filter then you should be good. If you think the filter can go in further, then now is the time to go back in.

Like I said before pictures can be deceiving, and camera angles do funny things sometimes, so was just pointing out the potential issue.
I think I would rather know for sure vs being in doubt.
Now I know it was a good thing that I ran out of daylight before doing the cold-fill of ATF!
Will the pan gasket be okay? I ran the bolts in hand-tight with one of those little, round, palm ratchets. Afterwards I saw someone say to coat the gasket with ATF, which I had not done.
 

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I think I would rather know for sure vs being in doubt.
Now I know it was a good thing that I ran out of daylight before doing the cold-fill of ATF!
Will the pan gasket be okay? I ran the bolts in hand-tight with one of those little, round, palm ratchets. Afterwards I saw someone say to coat the gasket with ATF, which I had not done.
Lol ... yeah, now that it's on your mind you kind of have to take it apart. Gasket will be fine, especially since the torque is so light on the bolts. I've even dropped the pan with new gasket after driving it for a week and not had any leakage afterward, so you should have no problems at all.

These transmission pan gaskets go on dry, just like the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. There is no interference or friction fit involved that you would need some lube to keep from damaging, moving the gasket out of position or just making installation more diffcult, like can happen with the hard coolant pipe o-rings, water pump oring, DISA valve oring, fuel injector orings, or oil filter cap and vanos orings that twist on into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Lol ... yeah, now that it's on your mind you kind of have to take it apart. Gasket will be fine, especially since the torque is so light on the bolts. I've even dropped the pan with new gasket after driving it for a week and not had any leakage afterward, so you should have no problems at all.

These transmission pan gaskets go on dry, just like the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. There is no interference or friction fit involved that you would need some lube to keep from damaging, moving the gasket out of position or just making installation more diffcult, like can happen with the hard coolant pipe o-rings, water pump oring, DISA valve oring, fuel injector orings, or oil filter cap and vanos orings that twist on into place.
On the topic of fuel injector o-rings, what do you like to lube them with?
Waiting on new ones from the dealer - hopefully today!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Dropped the pan, checked the filter.
Only the white collar is visible. The black tab is pressed up against the valve body.
Buttoned pan back up, tightened new drain plug, pumped ~1 gallon of new ATF in there.
Closer...
 

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On the topic of fuel injector o-rings, what do you like to lube them with?
Waiting on new ones from the dealer - hopefully today!
I put a very light coat of silicone paste (aka dielectric grease). It doesn't take much, you just need to make it shiny without gobs of it hanging on. Same on the disa valve oring.

When you go to seat the rail plus injectors in place, make sure to put the metal clips that secure the fuel injectors into the rail in place. Th's keeps the injectors from going too far into the rail. If the injectors are too deep inside the rail that will keep everything from lining up correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Lol ... yeah, now that it's on your mind you kind of have to take it apart. Gasket will be fine, especially since the torque is so light on the bolts. I've even dropped the pan with new gasket after driving it for a week and not had any leakage afterward, so you should have no problems at all.

These transmission pan gaskets go on dry, just like the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. There is no interference or friction fit involved that you would need some lube to keep from damaging, moving the gasket out of position or just making installation more diffcult, like can happen with the hard coolant pipe o-rings, water pump oring, DISA valve oring, fuel injector orings, or oil filter cap and vanos orings that twist on into place.
The filter was pretty close to the valve body. The black tab was right up there. No orange rings visible, only the white collar:

906805

906806
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Finally got a chance the take the car for a drive this morning and she seems to shift just fine.

Not sure if I can feel any differences at all.

Thanks all!
 
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