It sounds like the brakes weren't properly maintained. BMW requires you to flush (not bleed, but flush) the brake fluid at least every 2 years. Your calipers are internally corroded. Buy and install rebuilt calipers. The calipers need to be replaced in pairs.
Brake sticking. Tried something, not sure where to go from here.
I have a 2003 325xi and the right front brake is sticking. The car always pulls right and when I brake it always pulls me to the left. The wheel is very hot after driving only on the right, so I know it's sticking.
Today, I just took off the caliper and checked everything out. The brakes where pretty stuck on the wheel and had to wedge it to get them off the rotor. I took the pads off and took the pad housing (the part the has the 2 pins) off the caliper (not sure what that part is called). The part would not slide easily in and out with the pins. I was told to grease that up with high temp (450F) grease. So I cleaned and greased the hell out of the pins and inside where they go.
I used a C-Clamp to check to see if the rubber part on the caliper would move to close the brakes down. It was tough to get it to move but it did move and pushed some brake fluid out the entrance hole. So I put everything back together after greasing it all. Meanwhile the brakes fluid was slowly dripping out the whole time and when I put it back on, I bled it out.
Started to drive it and seemed to not pull nearly as much but still does on brake. I did get some grease on the brake pad because I could not for the life of me get the caliper to screw back on to the brake line. After driving it for 5 minutes I parked it and the wheel smoking. Not sure if that's the grease and brake fluid burning up that was on the brake and such. But it did seem hotter than the other wheel.
Not sure if I should just buy a whole new caliper and brake pads or what. I know I'll need to replace the other wheels brakes too but I just don't know what to do. Any advice?
Today, I just took off the caliper and checked everything out. The brakes where pretty stuck on the wheel and had to wedge it to get them off the rotor. I took the pads off and took the pad housing (the part the has the 2 pins) off the caliper (not sure what that part is called). The part would not slide easily in and out with the pins. I was told to grease that up with high temp (450F) grease. So I cleaned and greased the hell out of the pins and inside where they go.
I used a C-Clamp to check to see if the rubber part on the caliper would move to close the brakes down. It was tough to get it to move but it did move and pushed some brake fluid out the entrance hole. So I put everything back together after greasing it all. Meanwhile the brakes fluid was slowly dripping out the whole time and when I put it back on, I bled it out.
Started to drive it and seemed to not pull nearly as much but still does on brake. I did get some grease on the brake pad because I could not for the life of me get the caliper to screw back on to the brake line. After driving it for 5 minutes I parked it and the wheel smoking. Not sure if that's the grease and brake fluid burning up that was on the brake and such. But it did seem hotter than the other wheel.
Not sure if I should just buy a whole new caliper and brake pads or what. I know I'll need to replace the other wheels brakes too but I just don't know what to do. Any advice?
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Okay, well I will be flushing it this upcoming weekend and replacing my calipers and brakes on both front sides. What is the likely hood that I warped my rotor? I did drive on it while it was grinding because I didn't have much of a choice. Should I look into getting those replaced too? Or should I be fine?
Try it, it may be fine.Okay, well I will be flushing it this upcoming weekend and replacing my calipers and brakes on both front sides. What is the likely hood that I warped my rotor? I did drive on it while it was grinding because I didn't have much of a choice. Should I look into getting those replaced too? Or should I be fine?
Why not fix the calibers take them apart replace the seals $15 for a kit,clean and flush the brakes and you are done,worked for me!
On a new, or newly refurbished Caliper, without the brake hose attached, you should normally be (just about) able to compress the piston into the Caliper by hand, it's a bad sign if you needed a lot of force with a clamp to do so.
If you were in the UK I'd suggest the below, I assume there are similar offerings in the US.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/271939681275
Quality is important though, so I would do some research on brands. 'Bigg Red' has a good reputation, but is UK based.
It's an easy enough job to do, providing you are good at fiddly things.
Btw, BMW say not to lube the slide pins between the Caliper and the Carrier, just to get new ones and install dry. I ignore that on my car though, and use a little spray on copper grease (it's not very thick at all).
If you were in the UK I'd suggest the below, I assume there are similar offerings in the US.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/271939681275
Quality is important though, so I would do some research on brands. 'Bigg Red' has a good reputation, but is UK based.
It's an easy enough job to do, providing you are good at fiddly things.
Btw, BMW say not to lube the slide pins between the Caliper and the Carrier, just to get new ones and install dry. I ignore that on my car though, and use a little spray on copper grease (it's not very thick at all).
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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