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Discussion Starter #1
Well, its another 2005 325ci, that has a m54b30, full manual m3 6 speed, ported to a m50 intake, tube headers, csf cooling for water and oil (s54 oil filter housing) everything gone threw to get ready for real power. New vanos, coils, plugs, you name it. But it seams like it can't find proper timing when warm and changing gears. Oil weight also seams to have an effect on this. It was BMW smooth till a pan gasket was changed (possible it got something in it as they didn't remove it completely, it was very dirty no attempt to clean it or option to do it myself) and transmission was put in at sametime. Keep getting a intake cam position sensor code, replaced 2 times and still.. would like to have a proper tune in the car and see if anyone can point me in the right direction for a fix.
.. It has a 60/62 v band turbo set up ready to go along with 7.5 csf intercooler, aem 400lph fp, 1.5l surge tank, aero boost sensitive efi fpr, tial 50mm bov, and tial 44mm wg. Stock maf and tune at the moment till its running perfectly again. Its just not BMW smooth 85% of the time, hold at a certain ram for awhile and it finds its timing, change gears and back to rough
 

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Turbo setup on a stock tune? That can be the issue right there. Although it could use a nice m54b30 tune update. WINKFP can help with this. I’d go back NA and see if your issues get solved.
DM tunedbydaniel on Instagram.


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Discussion Starter #3
I'm holding off on the fi until I figure this out. Its na, just m50 intake and tube headers. I'm looking for someone local in the so cal area that can help on the tuning side. The car does have wifi obd2. Been trying to load romraider and winols and... much rather build the cages
 

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Ah, I misread. I can do remote tuning for ms45. Although never done m50 on a ms45 car. Dm my Instagram so we can communicate better and we’ll see what we can do.


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2000 E46 323i, 3.0L and 2.0L Z3's
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By running rough, are you saying that you have misfires? Are you getting misfire codes?

Misfires have several components:
  • compression
  • spark
  • fuel mixture
  • timing
Compression
- Test it, its there or it isn't

Spark
  • plugs and coils
  • oil in spark plug well from leaking Valve cover gasket
  • faulty boot on coils stopping spark, look for white deposits on the end of the boot.
  • wiring fault from DME to coil. Back probe coil with oscilloscope
  • Oil/coolant wicked up wires to DME causing grud to short out DME spark signal. Remove DME connectors and look.
  • Blown MOSFET in DME stopping spark signal, Back probe DME connector with oscilloscope.
Mixture
-Vacuum leaks
* Smoke test
* Look at all 4 fuel trims with a hot engine at idle. If any are >8% then you have a vacuum leak. Rev the engine to 3,000 rpm for 30 seconds. If the short term trims drop significantly, then its confirmed.
- Fuel, failing fuel pump, blocked filter.
* 50 PSI on the fuel rail
* Monitor all 4 fuel trims while driving and see what clues you see. If its good at idle but leans out under power/load, then you are not getting enough fuel.

Timing
  • Either its right or you have valves hitting pistons
  • Engine will run smooth throughout the normal range of the VANOS
  • Monitor the ignition timing while going for a drive to see that clue you see. How does it change from when its smooth to when its rough?
 

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By running rough, are you saying that you have misfires? Are you getting misfire codes?

Misfires have several components:
  • compression
  • spark
  • fuel mixture
  • timing
Compression
- Test it, its there or it isn't

Spark
  • plugs and coils
  • oil in spark plug well from leaking Valve cover gasket
  • faulty boot on coils stopping spark, look for white deposits on the end of the boot.
  • wiring fault from DME to coil. Back probe coil with oscilloscope
  • Oil/coolant wicked up wires to DME causing grud to short out DME spark signal. Remove DME connectors and look.
  • Blown MOSFET in DME stopping spark signal, Back probe DME connector with oscilloscope.
Mixture
-Vacuum leaks
  • Smoke test
  • Look at all 4 fuel trims with a hot engine at idle. If any are >8% then you have a vacuum leak. Rev the engine to 3,000 rpm for 30 seconds. If the short term trims drop significantly, then its confirmed.
- Fuel, failing fuel pump, blocked filter.
  • 50 PSI on the fuel rail
  • Monitor all 4 fuel trims while driving and see what clues you see. If its good at idle but leans out under power/load, then you are not getting enough fuel.
Timing
  • Either its right or you have valves hitting pistons
  • Engine will run smooth throughout the normal range of the VANOS
  • Monitor the ignition timing while going for a drive to see that clue you see. How does it change from when its smooth to when its rough?
Along with this, the solenoid or wiring for the intake cam sensor or solenoid for vanos can be bad. Can also cause rough running


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Discussion Starter #7
d_cleverzz, I've had the answer sitting rite here.. absolutely in on the remote tuning as I'm really looking for someone that knows these cars like yourself. I believe you are also correct in saying its vanos solenoid wire issue. I've replaced both sensors 2x with good Bosch and still same. I slowed down and actually looked at the definition and at the end does say something to the effect of bad connection/ wire fault
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I apologize for taking so long to get back on. The m50 intake works great, and runs much better than the stock,, at least with the vanos acting up. I'll replace that section of harness tomorrow. I'll buy a new harness once I know for sure what dme I'm running. Ms45.1 would be great if
 

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I apologize for taking so long to get back on. The m50 intake works great, and runs much better than the stock,, at least with the vanos acting up. I'll replace that section of harness tomorrow. I'll buy a new harness once I know for sure what dme I'm running. Ms45.1 would be great if
No worries my friend. Keep us, and me, informed.


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Discussion Starter #10
i was tired of messing with the ccv, and disa. I did it mainly for fi and simplify things a bit. I found some 36lb ford ev1 injectors, and decided to give it a try. Afr's are perfect, its getting close to 40mpg on the highway, idles perfect, no lag, but I need to fix that harness and eventually spend the time making one that fits my application or buy a stock. I'm not rich. But I do live in a area rich in good bmw parts. Picked up a horsepower freaks 3' v band stainless exhaust today!! Yea!! But its for an actual m3 so ill need to modify it some. Guy i bought it from had a custom s54 itb to m50 adapter plate, massive main caps, full bottom end stud plate.. too cool... if this world is small as i think it is i believe iv read posts from him here
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide for this project. What's the first step in order to make this happen?

That harness doesn't have any resistor wires or anything Krazy correct?? I'm pretty decent at wiring, hate it, but can do it
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Be nice if you were close by. Thank you for sharing your time, my apologies for not being able to respond sooner. You probably could find this in moments
 

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If you are seeing 40mpg on your cluster, it’s more than likely the ecu making injector pulse correction to meet stock lambda targets. When it lowers injector pulse that much it screws mpg readings. A bump to injectors like that more than likely requires scaling and injector data to make it 100%.

Regarding the wiring, the solenoid have their own little connector and harness, it’s separated a bit from the main engine harness. My original one had some splits in it for the intake solenoid and I had similar issues, so I just swapped it out for a good one. It wouldn’t be something I would cut and solder, etc.


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Discussion Starter #14
come on, let it fool me, THINKING I'm getting that mileage, but yes it does more like 30 on hw, does surprisingly well all around.
Regarding the harness, yes I forgot the whole thing is one. The exhaust side wouldn't cause the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That was one of the reasons I was considering ms43, have a nice harness and I'm not sold on this one, tho it is its original.
It runs good at idle, but not bmw smooth. It runs best between 2500-4k, sometimes are better than others. Need to pin point this before anything.
Found a m50 block that everything appears to be in order with, far as bore wear and journals. Believe i sold myself on a iron block
 

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Any issues with either cam and/or crankshaft position sensor can cause issues. Similarly with failed vanos, failed DISA?

Do a m50 block and making a custom build with Ms43 is definitely fun and doable, but you’re definitely starting on a whole new journey


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You can also attempt to use WinKFP to do a factory update to 330 software, maybe ms45 is more sensitive when I comes to 325/330 variants.


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Discussion Starter #19
When I first installed the motor it ran bmw smooth, it was at the trans swap or crap got in the pan and clogged a oil passage somewhere when the pan gasket and rear main were done, or the car was started in a wot condition and something happened, not sure. Doesn't knock or anything and every now and again it runs perfectly till you change gears. Changing gears / sudden remove changes seems to be not liked. It has a lightweight billet flywheel as well. Im hoping an actual manual tune will do something. There's nothing else I can replace short of a new harness
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I didn't do the install or pan. Just got what came back out and haven't been too happy as it didn't run like that before. The block was very dirty, caked with crap around the pan, it wasn't cleaned when they changed it, so.. im hoping its something to do with sudden rpm changes, almost seems like
 
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