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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to start a "bmw replacement tricks/substitution" thread. the intent is to post tricks on how to make your bmw perform better by substituting one "inferior" bmw parts with another more "superior" bmw parts.

When adding/sharing your recommendation, please use the same format below so we can maintain some consistency

I will start.


Title: Leaking from Radiator Coolant Temperature Sensor? Do this and never have to worry about it leaking ever again.

Problem Description:
BMW radiator coolant temperature sensor will eventual leak cuz the small 8mm x 3mm green o-ring will get "flatten" over time. as a result, it will no longer seal properly and you will get a leak. numerous members reported having this problems. however, replacing the same o-ring will only have the problem come back years later when the o-ring flatten again:

here is a picture of the old and new o-ring on the radiator coolant temperature:




the o-ring will eventually flatten and sit flush with the actual sensor. even a brand new o-ring barely protrude out.

here is a picture of the green o-ring



BMW #: 13621743299
spec: 8mm x 3 mm (OD x thickness)


Replacement: Here is the recommend substitution part:



BMW #: 13641437486
spec: 9.2 mm x 2.8

Installation Tip: This part is from the bmw upper fuel injector and is made from Viton (which is a more durable oil/temperature resistant material). it works perfectly. since it is 1.2mm larger...the fit inside the coolant hose will be snug put just put some coolant on the o-ring as lube and push down hard. it will snap into place. also..because there is a 1mm "extra thickness" you will never have to worry about your new o-ring flatten like the original/green one
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Title: Stripped transmission pan bolt?

Problem Description: Stripping ZF transmission pan bolt? Seems like every time you change your transmission oil on your ZF the bolt always strip. it doesn't matter if you buy brand new replacement bolts. the torx bolt will strip eventually.

here is a pix of the torx bolts:


BMW # 24101423273
spec: m6 x 22
that torx can't handle the torque value required to torqued the pan to spec or the force required to remove it.

Replacement: Here is the recommend substitution part:



BMW# 11131740000
spec: unknown but the thread is a perfect match.

Installation Tip: this bolt is slightly longer (less than 1mm) so just go to home depot and get you some small washer. use one washer for each bolt. the washer will also help distribute the clamping force on the pan and will help with securing/sealing the pan to the transmission
 

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On my phone so I can't type a lot, but:

- Brass coolant bleeder screw
- Brass brake locater bolt (won't rust to the hat)
- Silicone DISA O-ring can prevent leaks and seal better
- Using standard door clips for the wiper cowling rather than the wiper cowling specific clips can help it seat better and makes it easier to release. The cowling specific clips are too strong and can actually break the cowling clip holders
 

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Yah... with a little cooperation this has the potential to be a good thread:

Title: Mechanical Fan Replacement

Problem Description: Mechanical Fan in auto transmission non-M e46 is annoying, loud, a pain in the azz to remove, and can explode damaging all in its path.

Replacement: Remove the mechanical fan and auxiliary cooling fan, and replace them with an electric fan from a manual transmission e46.

Installation tip:
floor jack and one jack stand
philips screwdriver
I think Torx 20 head
8" extension
ratchet
8mm socket or 8mm wrench
9mm socket
13mm socket
fan clutch tools
OEM electric fan: 17117561757
Expanding rivets: 51718229003 (4)
51118174185 (as many as your break)
51471919209 (as many as your break)

credits go to SolidJake and kpeng: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=849735
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Title: Want to prevent an exploding coolant expansion tank

Problem Description: Most BMW vehicles manufactured between 1982 and 2006 run a cooling system vent pressure of 2.0 bar (29 psi). The problem is that the cooling system components are barely rated to handle that pressure when brand new. As the plastic parts heat cycle hundreds of times while exposed to the degrading effects of heat and coolant, they lose some of their strength. The result can be a ruptured part somewhere in the cooling system.

Ruptures can occur in the radiator tanks, expansion tank, thermostat housing and coolant hoses. Not only can a failure leave you stranded somewhere that you would rather not be stranded, but these engines are very prone to cylinder head warping and cracking when severely over heated. The number one cause of very expensive cylinder head failures is severe over heating during a cooling system failure.

So what is the solution? The system does not need to run that high of a pressure. In fact the industry standard for cooling system pressure is 1.0 to 1.4 bar. After doing extensive research and beta testing on several BMW engines, we decided on an optimum pressure of 1.2 bar. This pressure is high enough to maintain OEM pressure specifications up to 126 degrees Celsius (260F), which means that our cap will not alter your cooling system efficiency in any way. Apparently even BMW has seen the light, since most current BMW models now come equipped with a 1.2 bar cap.

this problem description is taken from http://germanautosolutions.com. they sell an aftermarket 1.2 bar cap

here is a pix of the current cap:



BMW: 17111742231
spec: 2.0 bar



Replacement: Here is the recommend substitution part:



BMW# 17111742232
spec: 1.4 bar


Installation Tip: this is a direct swap. this PN is taken from an e30. I was told that some e9x and later model bmw uses a 1.4 bar coolant cap but I haven't had time to research and verify it. the e30 cap is a good compromise between the factory 2.0 bar and the 1.2 bar aftermarket coolant expansion cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Title: Sick and tired of ripped/torn vacuum hose

Problem Description: This is more of an updated part (superceded part number and not a substitution) but are you sick and tired of having to chase vacuum leaks to find out that your small vacuum hose are brittle?

early e46 have vacuum hose made out of rubber. of course rubber will deteriorate over time with heat, oil, uv and time. Later BMW updated to silicone based vacuum line cuz they are more resilient than rubber. BMW then again updated the silicone hose to a reinforced braided silicone hose. the braided version gives the silicone hose an extra layer of protection.


here is a pix of the rubber hose. You can tell cuz it is dark black in color.



here is a pix of the silicone hose. you can tell cuz it is black but has a greyish powder hue/tint to it:



on newer bmw models, the silicone hose can be distinguished by red, blue, white, etc color line running in the middle. this was to help aide in the identification process such as this:





Replacement: Here is the recommend substitution part:



BMW# 11657803732
spec: 3.3mm x 1.8 mm (OD x ID)
braided silicone hose

Installation Tip: this is a direct swap. this PN is being sold in 1 meter increment. this is more than enough to replace all of your vacuum hose in your e46 engine bay. this type of braided silicone hose is being used in all current bmw models
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Title: What a cheaper way to replace your chirping/cricket or failed HVAC blower?


Problem Description: The HVAC blower is responsible for blowing air for your AC/Heater. however, over time the bearing will fail and cause the HVAC blower to chirp or make a cricket noise. some people will spray wd40 or lithium grease but this is a double sided sword. the grease will lube the bearing but it will attract dirt/grime and then will cause the blower to moan/chrip again. Some people will buy a used one cuz a brand new one cost $300 (OEM) to $500 (Original BMW). the used one will eventually fail cuz it is old. the e46 are 9-14 yrs old.

here is a pix of the current HVAC blower:



BMW: 64119204154
price: $300-$500



Replacement: Here is the recommend substitution part:



BMW# 64113453729
price: $115-$130
from: e83 X3

Installation Tip: direct swap. you might have to reuse your securing bracket
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
place holder.

recently replaced my voltage regulator and learned a few things. End up buying a brand new alternator cuz it was cheaper. Some voltage regulator (depending on year) is between $150-$250.



will edit and finished up post when have a chance. Will show you how to convert an oval to square voltage regulator and vise versa.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
need to replace your alternator or voltage regulator but found out you have a different connector (oval vs rectangular). No issue...just bmw the bmw plugs and wires and fabricate your own cable coverter








will post P/N later
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good thread. Didn't know about the X3 blower. did you personally try this out?
Yup...everything on this thread have been tried and tested by me (for what it is worth). These are not just theories or stuff I collected on the internet (although some of the ideas were though). Again, I have personally implemented all of these "tricks" on my car.
 

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Yup...everything on this thread have been tried and tested by me (for what it is worth). These are not just theories or stuff I collected on the internet (although some of the ideas were though). Again, I have personally implemented all of these "tricks" on my car.
OK I'll take your word on it and do the X3 blower when I need it. Since you are one of the patriots, i'll take your word ;)
 
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