This is a double edged sword.

If you can do all the work yourself, it will cost X amount per year.
If you cannot do any of the work, it will cost X times 4 per year.

 

This is a double edged sword.

If you can do all the work yourself, it will cost X amount per year.
If you cannot do any of the work, it will cost X times 10 per year.

Well I can change oil, filters and stuff like that. Last week I did the first thing to the car, and that was changing the valve cover gasket.

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There's no yearly price, the yearly price is the cost of oil and filter.

Price out the preventive maintenance parts, such as cooling system.
Which should last 3 to 6 years.


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Yeaaaaah... that is just wrong. Maybe ten years ago, but no way now unless you are investing at least $4 in electrical tape to coven your check engine light.

It is around $2k/year if your car is a daily driver and you actually intend to maintain it.

Much of that will come all at once when you get a lean code and realize how many hoses are cracking or failing.

You want a low maintenance car get a Japanese car from the 90s

 

Ummm.. I've done shy of 2 grand in the two months I've owned the car.

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It's pretty standard to drop $2k-$3k right after you buy it to get the maintenance up to date, unless you were lucky enough to buy it from a serious enthusiast that was on it from day 1 (unlikely!).

Cooling system, CCV and hoses, gaskets, all fluids, and suspension are the main things. Read these threads.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=17263355&postcount=1

 

...unless you were lucky enough to buy it from a serious enthusiast that was on it from day 1 (unlikely!).

I must have got one of those - I've not yet spent $600 on maintenance. In fact, I've spent more on wheels and other 'customization's' than anything else. Granted, I do not drive a lot and it's only been 18 months (and 3000 miles) for this BMW. I perused the CarFax quite thoroughly before buying and could see that the PO's had visited the BMW service centers regularly.

 

Very low if you do your own work. I rarely have to put money into my car.
I'd do the cooling system, vacuum lines/intake boots, air/fuel filters, and the lower control arms and bushings to start. That'll get you going in the right direction. Hooefully some of it has been done already.

 

$5K in 5 years, but less than $200 so far this year and I've done all my own work.

 

Do you guys include tires in your accounting? I have eight tires in 5 years.

 

If your the type to replace things that aren't broken, you can spend quite a bit in one year. If you just fix things when they break you are playing with fire, but won't spend nearly as much. Find a middle ground, but don't cut corners on the Cooling system. It's best to get that out of the way first.

If your car is auto go swap in a electric fan before your mechanical fan destroys everything in the engine bay.

 

I've had my car for about a year and a half now. Honestly I was kind of shocked when I added everything up and realized just how much I've spent on this thing since I got it lol But I hit almost all the problem areas on the car. It's never left me stranded or really given me any big issues at all. I always feel confident that it'll get me where I need to go and then get me back without issue.

The best thing to do is use the resources here and do as much of the work as possible yourself. I can only imagine how much it would have cost to have a shop do everything I've done to my car since I got it

 

I spend ~1k/year and do most of my maintenance myself. My car is definitely way above average in terms of preventative maintenance and overall cleanliness for its age though. I plan on driving it into the ground so the cost is worth it to me.

So far this year- $120 for oil change/filter, $150 rear window regulator, will spend another $100 to get the tint replaced since the broken window regulator scratched it =\, $150 for a new key.

 

Everything, and I mean everything, on this car will break or malfunction at some time. Even doing 75% of the work myself I estimate I have paid more for maintenance and some upgrades than this car is actually worth. The only reason I do it is because this car is incredibly fun to drive and has timeless looks.

 

No way 2k per year..
If you own a e46 you must do the maintenance yourself otherwise it gets to expensive


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I do virtually all the maintenance myself - I did not do the detents myself. And I drive 15,000 miles a year. Tires are almost $500/year alone.

I do, however, tend to replace a "system" when parts of it fail. For example my shocks were gone and I also replaced the mounts and end links.

But to give an example, I had lean codes, and I could have just replaced the sap vac line, which would have reduced the LTFT below the amount that triggers the code.

However, in diagnosing, I found out that the brake booster was failing and the MAF was under reporting. $650 in parts when all was said and done.

So is broken only when a code is thrown or when components are flat out destroyed?

At 150,000 (in San Francisco) the cooling, suspension, vacuum, shift linkage/clutch, mounts, giubo, MAF, fuel filter, fuel pump, starter, alternator and more are shot. Are they falling off the car? No. But they are shot. I didn't replace them for PM, I replaced them because, for example, I turned the key and the car failed to start because the starter was gone.

It doesn't mean the car was poorly maintained, it just means it is old like the earth.

 

That really depends on what's been done so far. I bought my car with 228000kms and after the initial preventative maintenance I spent very little (<1000) in the last 6 years and 70000kms.

 

from my experience so far, a lot and i still do everything myself. maybe my car has been mistreated in the past but a lot of stuff keeps breaking all the time, currently doing the cylinder head gasket and i'm not even sure if that's going to work out...

 

There are 3,000 parts in an e46. I have replaced around 250 of them (that includes bolts).

I know you can keep it running for less than I spent, but I was not willing to countenance the scraping of my front bumper and bottom damage from a 120k-old suspension that was shot. For one example.

 

Minimally, about $700 a year if broken down over 5 years/60,000 miles. However, it has to be all up front. Or you can do $550-750 down and $590 a month. The cooling system HAS to be done all at once, up front, no exceptions. Or you're looking at financing a new engine.

 

We all spend different amounts. Reliability is based on probability, and some have better luck than others.

So it really depends on what your car means to you and how you are with your belongings.
I'm similar to Arch where I'd rather just replace the system while I'm there.
I like when my car performs well, when my paint shines, and when the rims aren't different shades of brake dust.

The average cost of maintenance per year on a car is somewhere around $800 to $1000. Plus as cars get older, the cost to maintain them increases due to degradation and increased wear. You are also driving a BMW. Arch is giving reasonable numbers. I spend too much on this thing so I won't use myself as an example. Anyone who is scoffing at spending a grand a year to maintain their car either has their parents paying for the repairs or is driving a death trap.

$2000 a year?? Dude something is wrong with your car. I don't think I've even spent that much on maintenance in the last 100k miles.

^ It scares me these people are allowed to have their vehicle on the same road as mine.

 

We all spend different amounts. Reliability is based on probability, and some have better luck than others.

So it really depends on what your car means to you and how you are with your belongings.
I'm similar to Arch where I'd rather just replace the system while I'm there.
I like when my car performs well, when my paint shines, and when the rims aren't different shades of brake dust.

The average cost of maintenance per year on a car is somewhere around $800 to $1000. Plus as cars get older, the cost to maintain them increases due to degradation and increased wear. You are also driving a BMW. Arch is giving reasonable numbers. I spend too much on this thing so I won't use myself as an example. Anyone who is scoffing at spending a grand a year to maintain their car either has their parents paying for the repairs or is driving a death trap.



^ It scares me these people are allowed to have their vehicle on the same road as mine.

I would think more money spent on maintenance a year is exactly what I want on the road with me.

Thanks for all the answers! But one more question. Is the expansion tank something I should change?, the coolant level float had dissapeared when I was going to check the coolant level for some days ago.

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The expansion tank is THE part you should change. That should be PRIORITY ONE. http://www.e46mango.com/2016/08/top-10-parts-to-fail-on-your-e46.html

 

Thanks for all the answers! But one more question. Is the expansion tank something I should change?, the coolant level float had dissapeared when I was going to check the coolant level for some days ago.

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yes yes yes!
Do a whole cooling system refresh.
One surefire way to kill these motors is a blown cooling system.

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^ Oh ok got it. good. was a bit confused there.

 

I think this is perfect for those just getting into E46 ownership, but want to skimp and pimp.

http://www.e46mango.com/2014/10/think-youre-pimp-think-again-appeal-of.html

 

BTW, $1500-2k per year on a car that costs $5-7k now is an incredible deal. That is $200-$300 per month (5 years, no residual value) for an excellent car. Or you can pay $5-7000 and spend $500 per year, which is around $125 per month and drive a car with crap suspension, worn out steering, and likely power loss. It will still run, but most of the parts on the e46 wear out around 100k. Not that they "fail", but that they wear out.

As an experiment, check your flex disc. In all likelihood, it looks absolutely perfect (presuming it is original). It is also likely worn at around 120k. Now replace it - yeah, the exhaust bolts are a nightmare, but it is stupid simple to do, and costs about $150.

Now go for a drive.

If you don't feel a difference, either your engine/tranny mounts have melted, or you likely should do minimal maintenance, because it won't really benefit you. For me, changing the tie rod ends, the flex disc, the control arms -- none of which had literally stopped functioning -- all resulted in meaningful improvements in control and driveability.

Having driven a $30,000 Ford this week (rental), I cannot believe what a piece of crap "normal" cars are. Almost spun out on the NJTP where the pavement was bad because the suspension sprung the rear end into the air.

 

BTW, $1500-2k per year on a car that costs $5-7k now is an incredible deal. That is $200-$300 per month (5 years, no residual value) for an excellent car. Or you can pay $5-7000 and spend $500 per year, which is around $125 per month and drive a car with crap suspension, worn out steering, and likely power loss. It will still run, but most of the parts on the e46 wear out around 100k. Not that they "fail", but that they wear out.

Still very curious what you're spending $300 a month on...

 

Theyre generally pretty cheap and easy to repair. You really get shafted when you take it to a shop. I fixed a $4k shop quote from a friend's car for under $400 in parts.

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Hahaha, it's all relative, but really, who'd be selling a car they took pristine care of? Ans:? Nobody...

Couldn't believe all I read when I fell into this 2001 BMW 330XI, 146k when purchased, that called out to me and said, yeah, take me, I'm a decent price, body is super clean and it drove like it was on rails!

Ok, well, 6 months in, here's what I've done so far, all work by me, in chronological order:
Secondary Air Pump, wasn't working, codes!
SAP Valve, SAP vacuum hose, see above!
Moly engine clean, was disgusting, but hey, 12-15k oil change recommended...
Amsoil, Amsoil filter, it purred when changed.
Cabin Air, Engine Air filters, needed.
Plugs, just because, didn't really need, but cheap enough, just do it.
Front O2's, started tracking down lean codes, one was lazy, worth changing imo.
Rear Springs, both sides broken (bottom).
Rear Shocks, one shock literally fell apart once unbolted.
Pirelli Tires, Wheel Alignment, had winter tires on it, fairly new, so an investment.
Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Vanos Hose, OFH was leaking nasty, not enough to drip, but collect and burn on side of the engine!
Power Steering Gasket, leaking, new gasket and tightened hoses and all good!
Tensioner Pulleys, one was shot...
Water on passenger floorboard, first big rain, floor was wet, re-seated all door gaskets
Fuel Filter, just because, and lean codes
Inner Ball Joints, one had movement, change in pairs.
Control Arm Bushings, nasty vibration when braking!
Front Rotors and Ceramic Pads (R1 Concepts, drilled/slotted)
Just this week, hard failure Fuel Pump - replaced!

Upcoming... Parts on hand!
Oil Level Sensor
CCV Kit
Right Passenger window regulator

Need to do:
Fix AC (not working)
Fix smell from vents
Fix Sunroof Cover (guides)
Fix license plate rear lid switch
Front Struts/Springs
Get winter rims for Winter Tires I have...

So take a look... Some things have amazed me that they go so bad, either so fast, or just so bad. I've had cars with 100k in them and they functioned a hell-ova-lot better for sure. Don't give me the high tolerances becaus Razeckar argument. They are fun to drive, I'm enjoying it, but they stink as far as cost per mile concerns. My real race car is a Pontiac and it would kill this little BMW and all the $ I put into that was because I wanted to, not because I "had" to.

Not hating, just relating my recent, new, BMW experiences to the OP. I knew going in they are high maintence, but wow! Hahahaha, I just want to get through it all so I can just get in and drive, not worry about "what next"???

Regards!

 

To add another data point. I bought my 2001 325Xi one year ago. Bought from original owner that was very anal about maintenance and care of the car. Car had 200k miles on it. Even though he took very good care of it, I knew there were things that were ready to go that had not been addressed yet. The car was simply immaculate.

Right off the bat I put it on the rack and changed every fluid even though some were not due yet.
Full Rob43 suspension setup, poly FCAB, sway bar end links, all shock and suspension mounts.
Plugs and air filters.
Flushed the PS system with new fluid.
Alignment (stock specs)
Tires, Continental DWS
Fuel pump (still had original installed)

Then in April the clutch started to tell me it was due. It had 206k miles on it. I replaced it with a Valeo SMF setup, short shifter, rear main, Input shaft seal, complete rear drive shaft and CSB, Guibo, motor and transmission mounts.

Everything else I have done has been cosmetic and to personalize the car for me, so I am not including those. Including the purchase price of the car, in the last year I have about $6500 total invested. Not bad at all. Car has been 100% flawless. No codes, no warning lights, just runs like she should.