Glad you enjoyed the thread so far. will be a lot more to come.Whew. It took me 4 days, but I've finally read through the entire thread from the start! Wonderful journey you've had with this car and I love all of the creative solutions you have come up with for problems. Thank you very much for sharing!
The one thing that I don't see, and think you would really benefit from, is joining the rear subframe mounts to the frame rails of the car. I know you installed that safety devices rear tower brace, but afaik it only mounts to the trunk floor, which is completely separated from the RACP that the subframe mounts anchor to.
If you haven't yet, I'd definitely recommend looking at the Vincebar and SME solutions for the RACP issue. I bet you could come up with another creative solution and tie it into your existing bracing.
Some good info here - let me know if you'd like more!
Edit: I'm guessing you've also looked into adding a baffle in the oil pan since you're tracking oil pressure drops in turns. Adding a baffle completely eliminated some starvation issues that I was having during autocross events.
Whoa I did not know that helical lsd's got hot too. Makes me feel better about leaving the finned cover on the Z4 diff that I am installing.I know a few people running diff cooling set ups on E36/E46 and a conversion with company that builds race cars especially E46's said they had experienced high diff temps not only with plated diffs but with helical diffs.
Sedan with a solid rear seat (non-folding) is significantly stiffer than any other e46 model and definitely the best chassis for a track carGreat build up, Inspiring, I am looking to build an e46 to track/rally and time attack but I am looking at building a sedan. Sedans are actually naturally stiffer than the coupes. I like the look of the sedan as well.
Yes I have discovered this, I even found some numbers.Sedan with a solid rear seat (non-folding) is significantly stiffer than any other e46 model and definitely the best chassis for a track car
I've finished building the engine now, oil pump is build with lock tight and lock wired on both sizes of the bolt to keep it secure as well as trying to maintain balance when spinning at such high RPM's.Looking great! Scary that the oil pump bolt backed out. Definitely want to use loctite and a wire this time!
Oh and good luck with welding that baffle into the oil pan. It was a massive pain in the ass for me. The pan is just one giant, very effective heat sink. The best method I've seen is one guy that put the whole pan in a large outdoor grill to heat up to 450-500F, then was able to use the alumiweld sticks and a torch to braze the baffle in place.
Really looking forward to seeing what happens with this new motor and what the dyno graphs look like. At the moment the CAD drawings aren't refined enough in regard to their fitment to start making these. I only really set this up to make the one for myself.I agree with everyones comments about the build, you have done a cracking job with the car!
Also loving the new engine build too, in particular the new cylinder head i'm very jealous of! always loved a nice N/A build.
Would you be interested in making another sump baffle at all? I'm based in the UK and it's on my list of things to sort on my car!