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Hello everyone,

Looking for some advice on replacing the clutch on my 2002 BMW 330ci. I am looking for recommendations on a clutch and a flywheel. I am also looking for recommendations on what other parts I should replace while I***8217;m doing this job. I have not replace a clutch before. I know it***8217;s a pretty intense job but I believe my friend and I can handle this with a lift. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Evan
 

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you'll get other opinions, but I suggest a stock or OEM-like clutch replacement. Get the LUK clutch kit and be done with it. Resist the urge to get a singe mass flywheel or lightweight flywheel, or a race clutch or a non self adjusting clutch or any of that nonsense (my term). You should keep a dual mass flywheel (DMF) and a self-adjusting clutch. You will have to decide whether to replace the DMF (an extra $300), but if not too worn they can be re-used once.

If you want to, remove the clutch delay valve near the slave cylinder (read up on it) for a more direct clutch feel.
 

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Funny you say this I just watched a YouTube video and I will for sure be staying with a dual mass. Sucks I have to buy a new to find out if I need a new one. Thanks for the information.


you'll get other opinions, but I suggest a stock or OEM-like clutch replacement. Get the LUK clutch kit and be done with it. Resist the urge to get a singe mass flywheel or lightweight flywheel, or a race clutch or a non self adjusting clutch or any of that nonsense (my term). You should keep a dual mass flywheel (DMF) and a self-adjusting clutch. You will have to decide whether to replace the DMF (an extra $300), but if not too worn they can be re-used once.

If you want to, remove the clutch delay valve near the slave cylinder (read up on it) for a more direct clutch feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Funny you say this I just watched a YouTube video and I will for sure be staying with a dual mass. Sucks I have to buy a new to find out if I need a new one. Thanks for the information.


you'll get other opinions, but I suggest a stock or OEM-like clutch replacement. Get the LUK clutch kit and be done with it. Resist the urge to get a singe mass flywheel or lightweight flywheel, or a race clutch or a non self adjusting clutch or any of that nonsense (my term). You should keep a dual mass flywheel (DMF) and a self-adjusting clutch. You will have to decide whether to replace the DMF (an extra $300), but if not too worn they can be re-used once.

If you want to, remove the clutch delay valve near the slave cylinder (read up on it) for a more direct clutch feel.
 

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Funny you say this I just watched a YouTube video and I will for sure be staying with a dual mass. Sucks I have to buy a new to find out if I need a new one. Thanks for the information.
You don't need to buy a new one..to see if you need a new one. Take off the clutch disc and measure the rotational play of the DMF...-3-4 teeth is okay, more than 4 teeth is sketchy.
 

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At 170k, one car's DMF was fine. The other's was done.

One got a DMF, one a Valeo SMF conversion.

I'd agree, stay DMF for a daily, and unless you need the car immediately,
check your flywheel before ordering another. The LUK was EXACTLY what was oem in both cars.

hth
t
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for this information but once the clutch is off I don***8217;t want to wait to have to order a flywheel. I will just buy one and return it if not needed.



Funny you say this I just watched a YouTube video and I will for sure be staying with a dual mass. Sucks I have to buy a new to find out if I need a new one. Thanks for the information.
You don't need to buy a new one..to see if you need a new one. Take off the clutch disc and measure the rotational play of the DMF...-3-4 teeth is okay, more than 4 teeth is sketchy.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Don't forget the pilot bearing. Many do, it's NOT part of the clutch kit and IS part of the job.
 

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Don't forget the pilot bearing. Many do, it's NOT part of the clutch kit and IS part of the job.
Good point...I don't have a puller, so I use the wet paper shreds hydraulic method of removal..Good use of the paper shredder...

- Soak a couple handfuls of paper shreds in water.
- use a short 3/8 or 1/2 socket extension or large bolt to tap wet shred into cavity behind bearing
- keep adding/tapping until it pops out.
 

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Good point...I don't have a puller, so I use the wet paper shreds hydraulic method of removal..Good use of the paper shredder...

- Soak a couple handfuls of paper shreds in water.
- use a short 3/8 extension or large bolt to tap wet shred into cavity behind bearing
- keep adding/tapping until it pops out.
Kewl! :thanks:
 

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...and I was waiting on my clutch to fail so I could also replace a seeping rear main seal...which had been seeping for years. Clutch was still good and original at 386,321 miles. Just saying...in case someone told you you need a new clutch even though yours is still working. I heard that when I got the car at 140,000 miles. Pretty good clutch...so if you do need one, I'd definitely stay OE as much as possible.

Rear main seal. It's right there so I've been told.
 

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//Binary is in my DNA
2002 BMW 325i
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What do you know... Never heard of that before, thanks for sharing!
I've been working on cars my entire life and I have never seen or heard about this before. Great life hack. :thumbsup:
 

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Luk sent a pilot bearing- but now you mention it, I think it came with the DMF, not the clutch.

t
Has used grease, bolts, and a welder to remove pilot bearings (no, not at the same time!)
Now uses a slide hammer. Likes the hammer a lot better....
 
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