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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
927028



How immediately should I do the bearings? Should I not drive the car anymore untill I fix this?
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Do you like to gamble? Not trying to be funny.
Compared to averages, the numbers look high.
 

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right above that section (of oil report) is "comments", just wondering what blackstone suggests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
927033

right above that section (of oil report) is "comments", just wondering what blackstone suggests.
They were a little to casual about 3x averages, so I was kind of confused. That's why I decided to ask here.
 

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View attachment 927033


They were a little to casual about 3x averages, so I was kind of confused. That's why I decided to ask here.
I don't know if its a casual statement. The first sentence is enough warning. They are not going to tell you your engine is going to blow up tomorrow or xxx mileage, nor is anyone here going to tell you that. If another sample shows a bit of iron get ready for a full rebuild.
 

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I sure as heck would be doing it asap. I just sent off my oil for analysis, hoping it looks nothing like this, since rod bearing replacement is not a cheap event.
 

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I sure as heck would be doing it asap. I just sent off my oil for analysis, hoping it looks nothing like this, since rod bearing replacement is not a cheap event.
Doing it yourself isn't that expensive. If it's just bearings you only need to drop the pan. Well... not just the pan. All the stuff in the way needs to be dropped. Then replace anything you have access to while you have all that stuff out....nvm. It will get more expensive.
 

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View attachment 927028


How immediately should I do the bearings? Should I not drive the car anymore untill I fix this?
Here's the deal...the tipoff is that this is YOUR first oil analysis. I'm assuming you bought the car from some guy or dealer or whatever and, just perhaps, the reason the car was sold was because they got a similar oil analysis. Let's put it this way...I would consider selling my M3 if it came up with this analysis, especially if it was the first time it came up. In your case, sounds like you want to repair it, so just do it or have it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's the deal...the tipoff is that this is YOUR first oil analysis. I'm assuming you bought the car from some guy or dealer or whatever and, just perhaps, the reason the car was sold was because they got a similar oil analysis. Let's put it this way...I would consider selling my M3 if it came up with this analysis, especially if it was the first time it came up. In your case, sounds like you want to repair it, so just do it or have it done.
It used e46 m3 with 100k, I was already anticipating the bearings going. I'm just trying to figure out do I have a week or can I wait a month. Its self evident that needs to be done ASAP
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Unfortunately it's one of those "You just can't know." until you get in there and do it.
Maybe you have a month, maybe a day.
But if one overheats and anneals itself onto the crankshaft... Ruh roh.
 

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Unfortunately it's one of those "You just can't know." until you get in there and do it.
Maybe you have a month, maybe a day.
But if one overheats and anneals itself onto the crankshaft... Ruh roh.
You can probably drive it under 5-6K rpm and part throttle. But again, it's a gamble.
 

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Big brain move: bearing delete. Never have to worry about replacing those things again. Saves weight in the rotating assembly which reduces the rotating mass which is always a plus


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
 

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Big brain move: bearing delete. Never have to worry about replacing those things again. Saves weight in the rotating assembly which reduces the rotating mass which is always a plus


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics
A La BMW V10 F1 motor?
Only issue is you need to float the crankshaft with pressurized oil before cranking.
 

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How immediately should I do the bearings?
High copper is concerning as after the copper layer then crank hits steel bearings then ruin the crank and rods which will be very expensive to repair. 100K miles is about right or little late depending on driving style. It's a gamble: $5000 repair bill + rental car, or rent a cheap Kia for 4 weeks now.

Or the bearings are still ok for few thousands miles, but why gamble?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the input, if anyone knows some good shops in LA or surrounding area to do bearings please list them here
 

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I havent had the oil analysis done to my car, but I know the original recall was done at 8K miles. My car is slowly approaching 87K on the clock. Kinda figure i have some time, but likely will get bearings done within next year because its just not worth the gamble. I was quoted just under 2K for my shop to do them, and in my mind, that 2K will only help when i eventually sell the car, not to mention the piece of mind not worrying about grenading the engine. With that said, i also rarely run the revs out when driving.
 

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I havent had the oil analysis done to my car, but I know the original recall was done at 8K miles. My car is slowly approaching 87K on the clock. Kinda figure i have some time, but likely will get bearings done within next year because its just not worth the gamble. I was quoted just under 2K for my shop to do them, and in my mind, that 2K will only help when i eventually sell the car, not to mention the piece of mind not worrying about grenading the engine. With that said, i also rarely run the revs out when driving.
Same here, twice under bmw recalls, last one around 12K(?). I have 114K on my 03 M3 now and still run it like I stole it it 7500K with no problems. Castrol Edge 10W60 since new, no problems with oil analysis, but then I change the oil every year and maybe 2400-2600 miles. With such low mileage I don't expect high ppm bearing readings but if they change, I'm all in on the con rod bearing shell change.
 
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