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Have you tried reseting all the adaptations with ms4x tool after you have flashed the ecu?

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Yes. This seems to work until a power cycle, when the 0069 "forgets" whereas the 0056 doesn't (and didn't need adapting to start with?)

Its entirely possible I have the ECU wired incorrectly and I am not power cycling it properly? Is it expected that the ECU would forget its adaptations during a battery replacement?
 

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I'm not sure why you would do this as Vanos already allows cam timing changes to the extent of valve-piston contact.
i dont think they are so tight and second : i disassemble my engine quite a lot for inspection / improvements , first time i use the vanos sprokets template ,engine works in a way for a year. Second time i find that my template was a little off with one sproket notch, and i mount them by counting chain links based on a picture that i found on internet. In this position, sprokets did not fit in the template,but i run them anyway. Power figures and car runs over my expectations...till this year, when i ported another head and match it to an M50 manifold. Since i did not manage to reproduce sproket positions,i use the template. I think i loose power based on my tests and even the feel is softer. I am pretty shure that before , i alter cams positions, from the sprokets or from the back of the cams stopper ,and, before i take them out anyway, an "go for" or "not the case" motivate ,or not ,my action.

if i mount a cam wrong, i might never reach max retard or advance since vanos thinks is at a top ,but with 5 degs out.
 

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i dont think they are so tight and second : i disassemble my engine quite a lot for inspection / improvements , first time i use the vanos sprokets template ,engine works in a way for a year. Second time i find that my template was a little off with one sproket notch, and i mount them by counting chain links based on a picture that i found on internet. In this position, sprokets did not fit in the template,but i run them anyway. Power figures and car runs over my expectations...till this year, when i ported another head and match it to an M50 manifold. Since i did not manage to reproduce sproket positions,i use the template. I think i loose power based on my tests and even the feel is softer. I am pretty shure that before , i alter cams positions, from the sprokets or from the back of the cams stopper ,and, before i take them out anyway, an "go for" or "not the case" motivate ,or not ,my action.

if i mount a cam wrong, i might never reach max retard or advance since vanos thinks is at a top ,but with 5 degs out.
OK lets go back to engines without any kind of VVT.
Every engine, even of the same kind will have minor variations in cam to crank timings. Building it properly, you need a degree wheel and dial gauge for TDC to set it up perfectly.
Even when you machine a head or block, this timing will change (chain stretch that results from this will affect timing). Ideally you have to do it at every rebuild on intake and exhaust cam with adjustable cam wheels.

Now lets add VVT into the mix. If its single VVT, you set the static sprocket correctly per above and install the VVT side as is and tune it to suit. For dual VVT you install it per the spec then you have to spend a lot of dyno time setting base VVT origin points. You can retain the relative overlaps in VVT modes, but its a right pain to get a rebuilt motor to make power in this case.

This is why when people build race motors they start with virgin blocks and heads so they don't need to spend this amount of time in setup.
 

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OK lets go back to engines without any kind of VVT.
Every engine, even of the same kind will have minor variations in cam to crank timings. Building it properly, you need a degree wheel and dial gauge for TDC to set it up perfectly.
Even when you machine a head or block, this timing will change (chain stretch that results from this will affect timing). Ideally you have to do it at every rebuild on intake and exhaust cam with adjustable cam wheels.

Now lets add VVT into the mix. If its single VVT, you set the static sprocket correctly per above and install the VVT side as is and tune it to suit. For dual VVT you install it per the spec then you have to spend a lot of dyno time setting base VVT origin points. You can retain the relative overlaps in VVT modes, but its a right pain to get a rebuilt motor to make power in this case.

This is why when people build race motors they start with virgin blocks and heads so they don't need to spend this amount of time in setup.
i forged my own vvt setup for this engine ,and was good, engine pulls hard everywhere with its stock M54 manifold. then i took another head , ported again from valves seats up to new M50 manifold.From here on, power was out the window and not opposite. My question was not about setup , any logic say that wrong timed cams will affect power, i feel it on my own skin :) Its clearly that i mess up the timing, and my question was if somebody mounted conscious the cams little advanced , or retarded ,and how that feel ! i am asking because i will re-time the cams and i want to try a tid more on the side for possibly more power / moving up the band
 

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i forged my own vvt setup for this engine ,and was good, engine pulls hard everywhere with its stock M54 manifold. then i took another head , ported again from valves seats up to new M50 manifold.From here on, power was out the window and not opposite. My question was not about setup , any logic say that wrong timed cams will affect power, i feel it on my own skin :) Its clearly that i mess up the timing, and my question was if somebody mounted conscious the cams little advanced , or retarded ,and how that feel ! i am asking because i will re-time the cams and i want to try a tid more on the side for possibly more power / moving up the band
And yes even slightly out of sync cams will lose power. Much easier to correct and setup without VVT through use of adjustable cam wheels. But much harder with infiniately variable VVT.

So for example we built a race motor for an evo 9. To get the timing correct we had to jump a tooth because of the combination of parts we put into it. Not normal, but had to be done for the cams to work.
 

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hi everyone.
need some info with ms43.
I have deleted rear O2 sensors, secondary air pump and catalytic converters.
I wondering if its possible to get CO lower and make TÜV without cats.
Someone have experiences with this?
Im not measured the CO yet.
 

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Easier if you just get a cat for TÜV and remove it after its passed, dont think you will pass even if you are running stupidly lead, since we get meassured by lambda and CO you must stay withing lambda 1 +- 0,03 or whatever it says and a limit for CO too that is at idle and 2500rpm. I am running a 100cell cat and its passing our exhaust value criterias.
 

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hi everyone.
need some info with ms43.
I have deleted rear O2 sensors, secondary air pump and catalytic converters.
I wondering if its possible to get CO lower and make TÜV without cats.
Someone have experiences with this?
Im not measured the CO yet.
its a result of combustion process, its always there without being processed by chimics. Leanest condition for engine safety still wont get you pass.
 

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did somebody mounted their cams more advanced or retarded compared to original positions ? there are benefits regarding power ? any sugestion ?
Did it since I wanted to know as well. Retarded them about 5 degrees. Didn’t gain much in the upper rev but lost a lot down low. Now I’m struggling finding some spare time to change them back. Don’t forget to also change the exhaust cam otherwise the vanos will smash against the cam cups

With a hotter cam (264 degrees and 10.5 lift) I gained little more then on default position. But I’m talking here about an almost stock exhaust system, eBay headers and the uk eu2 catalytic system which is still a big bottle neck.


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And yes even slightly out of sync cams will lose power. Much easier to correct and setup without VVT through use of adjustable cam wheels. But much harder with infiniately variable VVT.

So for example we built a race motor for an evo 9. To get the timing correct we had to jump a tooth because of the combination of parts we put into it. Not normal, but had to be done for the cams to work.
Vanos is still there and is adjusting the cams. In the 5 degrees range it still works. Of course asynchronous adjustment will cause problems, had to learn it the hard way


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Hello there,

just wanted to mess aorund with the basic pops n bangs map.

Searched through many posts but couldnt find a proper definition of table
id_n_hys_min_puc__vs__gear
id_n_hys_min_puc_dri__vs__gear

As i unterstood right, as i have this set up the pop n bang should come till an speed of 72 and under 3k rpms till gear 3. Above that it should'nt bang. But thats probably wrong since i tested this and it always bangs.
Do I have to change the retard ignition to normal settings above 3.6 and under in to negativ?

Also what would be the settings for an headless tune to just have 1 massive bang instead of continous bangs?

Like reving up to 6k, let off the gas and around 2.5k it should bang 1 time with a flame. Should my retard settings be like -23 and do i have to add fuel on fuel maps around that rpm ?
 

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Today i bought spare ecu.
I have M54B22 engine, but the spare ecu is from M54B25 141kw.
Is it safe to run it B25 ecu? Gives me some more power with B25 maps or not?
And last question, to update 0056 to 0069 i write full 512kb flash without bootmode?
 

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Today i bought spare ecu.
I have M54B22 engine, but the spare ecu is from M54B25 141kw.
For this question i have no answer. At least im not sure about it.

And last question, to update 0056 to 0069 i write full 512kb flash without bootmode?
If you run a ews delete, than its okay to just upgrade it without boodmode. But if you want to keep you're EWS you have to flash the full bin in bootmode since the EWS, UIF etc is saved in the last section. As well as the VIN.

So you run a EWS delte - go for it without bootmode
If you want to keep the ews - go for it in bootmode with JMGarageFlasher ;)
 

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hi everyone.
need some info with ms43.
I have deleted rear O2 sensors, secondary air pump and catalytic converters.
I wondering if its possible to get CO lower and make TÜV without cats.
Someone have experiences with this?
Im not measured the CO yet.
I have same setup and have tried to lower fuel more than 28% so lambda adaptation can't adjust it. I have installed Wideband and AFR was about 19 and car was moving very slow but its passed co emission with 0.12 CO.
I also tried to help my friend on his E36 (ms41) done approximately same, first time he failed with 0.8 co, then i reduce fuel to max (before car stall) and he passed 0.4-0.5 don't remember exact number

both of car doesn't have cat, rear O2 sensors and secondary air pump.

to be clear, I live in different country and regulations may be different but with CO it works

first time I have passed even when piston oil ring was not in good shape and car had white smoke (they didn't believe how it was possible to pass, second time was fully rebuilded engine)
 

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Hello,
Recently i upgraded to MS430069. Everything is great, except i can't make the m3 dash lights and launch control to work. Before this i had 0056 and it was working properly ( temp leds + shiftlight ) .
I will upload 3 pics

First is working lights from 0056 i had before
Second is how it looks now with the settings from third picture applied ( notice the water temp limit being lit )
Thrid we have M3 cluster settings + LC settings ( c_n_max_lc is set as 2700 so i dont have to always rev it to 3500 for tests )

Also, is there anyway to suppress the SMG light ? Since i dont have an SMG, i tried to look over DTC suppresion list but cant find anything .

If anyone can help me, i would highly appreciate that.
Kind regards,
G
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