If you are starting HPDEs, it doesn't matter. You don't need a square setup. I would look at tire availability and cost in whatever size you are thinking about.

 

Whats the offset of the wheels? You will need quite a bit of camber to clear the fenders with a 10" wheel. You might also need to roll the inside of the fenders and adjust the ride hieght.

 

I like my track setup so much that I now(since 2010) run it exclusively in the street. My car is a daily commuter, and this setup works just fine. And yes, it is a square setup.
And yes, I can rotate my tires now. Finally.

265/35-18's with Michelin Pilot 4S or Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires, if you can still find them. I am still finding used Pilot Super Sports in this size for about $100 shipped with 70% to 80% tread left.
Once you use these tires, you will never want anything else for your car. They are that good. The best.

These are not 100 tread wear track tires, but they do just fine on the track and serve GREAT as daily drivers. They last MUCH longer than any of my 100 treadwear tires wish I will no longer buy to run in the street. Waste of money. Noisy, and b terrible in the rain too.
Pilot Super Sports FTW. I think the treadwear is rated at about 300.

You will fall in love with these Michelin Pilot Super Sports. The 4's or supposed to be even quieter and more refined.

Don't buy any of the other Pilot variations. Only the Pilot 4S or the Pilot Super Sports.

With all your soul and might,
resist the temptation to go with 19 inch tires. Go with 18" for so many, many reasons. It sounds like you know that already.


Wheels are D Force LTW.
18 X9.5
Same offset front and back. No spacers up front. No fender rolling up front or back.

They call for 12 mm plates in back. My car is very much lowered. But I run 20mm spacers in back and experience no rubbing or clearance issues. 20 mm spacers look much better 12 mm. The wheels seem evenly spaced out front and back. But you made me want to check first. Maybe borrow a set of spacers because my fenders are rolled and back. But I think you can get away with 20 mm even if you're not rolled.

I don't buy expensive spacers anymore because I'm always experimenting. I buy the cheapest ones I can find on Amazon and let me tell you they are fine


Just make sure you buy a kit of spacers that come with the correct length lug bolts. Insist that they get hand torqued to 88 foot pounds.

Do not use never seize on the lug bolts, but do use it on the plates and mounting surface of the wheel.

I don't experience any of this "tramlining" that people talk about.

Chrome lug bolts will hold up much better than painted black ones.

There is a multi spoke design by D-Force just a little heavier that some people like better. I have really grown used to the LTW design. It shows off your big brake kit if you have one. If you don't have a big brake kit, then the multi spoke would be a better option.

I bought my D Force wheels from Turner Motorsports.

They call them racing wheels, but I have been running them in the street for many years. Same set since 2010.

Once every year or two I will have them trued. They are never very far out of true. They are extremely strong for a so-called racing wheel. Very light.

I had mine powder coated semi gloss black. I am going to get them re powder coated in a high gloss black to help getting rid of brake dust when I wash the car.

Sell your current wheels or keep them as spares.

 

Wheels are D Force LTW.
18 X9.5
Same offset front and back. No spacers up front. No fender rolling up front or back.

And what are the offsets on the wheels? Stock suspension?

 

I***8217;m running 18x10 et35 with a 265/35-18 tire and about -2* of camber from swapping the strut tops left to right. There***8217;s no issues with clearance.