BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Thought I was following the Bentley directions correctly for removing an axle. Had my axle puller on and it was moving but not completely separating. So I kept turning and BANG, the wheel hub pops off with half of the bearing. Not sure why exactly. Per the Bentley directions, you don't need to disconnect the control arm before pressing the hub, but in reviewing several videos, they disconnect the control arm before doing this. Is that what I did wrong? I have to do the other side and would like to avoid this unless it is just due to seized parts...

How do I get that bearing collar off of the wheel hub?

IMG-6866.jpg



IMG-6863.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Not familiar with your model, so I assume you are doing the rear bearings. If so, you should remove the axle from the differential, then push the spline out of the bearing. There really is no way to remove the hub from the bearing without the race coming off with it. Assuming you want to reuse the hub, removing the race is not super hard, just requies a bit of patience. If you have a chisel with a hardened edge, you can try tapping it in between the hub and the back of the race.

Once you can make enough space you should be able to knock it out, without any damage. The easier way is to use a dremmel tool and slowly and carefully cut through the race. Occasionally tap the cut sideways, once it start to move, tap it out. If it turns but still too tight to tap it out, cut bit deeper, then use a flat screwdriver to open the cut up enough so it slides off, or splits open.
 

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info on removing the race. Actually I am working on a front axle so I don’t think my hub was supposed to come off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
This type of hub when used with almost any puller, will always pull the race off. I've never found a way to avoid it. If you do find a way, I'd love to know how?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I had to remove the axles when i did my oil pan on my '01 330xi. The bentley manual does call to "Remove inner ball joint mounting bracket bolts from subframe" and "Support control arm. Working at rear of subframe, remove control arm rear bracket mounting bolts." This releases the control arm from the hub. Then you can turn your steering and maneuver the axle out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
The big 34 mm nut is all that holds the axle to the hub. Normally, you simply remove that big nut and tap on the axle with a piece of hard wood and it loosens immediately. Sometimes its held by corrosion and needs persuading, but at any rate it will just slide out. Once the axle is loose on the hub, you need clearance to angle the axle out of the splined hub. To get the clearance you loosen the control arm ball joint on the hub carrier and may also have to loosen the outer tie rod ball joint. Sometimes loosening one allows enough clearance on some cars. Once this is done the axle pulls straight out since it is being held into the differential by a c clip. Sometimes a slide hammer is needed to pop that C clip or comparable means to pull that puppy out. Usually a few lateral jerks pops it.

In your case, you will have to find the Bentley section for replacement of the bearing. You will have to remove the outer race from the hub. One method is carbide cut a straight line across the bearing in line with the hub. Cut as close as possible without touching the hub. Once this line is cut, take a cold chisel and tap in into the cut then give the chisel an appropriate blow with a hammer. The remaining material on the race will crack allowing the race to be wiggled off the hub. :)
 

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
If I read the Bentley correctly, it actually, if you follow the steps in order, has you pull the hub, then disconnect from the subframe. I suppose this works if you don't try to completely remove the axle from the hub until you disconnect from the subframe to give room. Unfortunately, I am an instruction follower and tried to get it completely free. Once it got to the point where the axle could not push back any further against the axle support, it had nowhere to go but pull the hub apart. I will try your suggestions from removing the race.

I did the other side after disconnecting the control arm bracket (which was quite difficult), and then it disconnected easily.

My main goal is to replace my oil pan gasket, but I am also replacing my struts. The fastener on the carrier holding the strut is completely seized, ended up drilling that one out. Tomorrow's exercise will be to try to get the one on the driver side out without snapping, which also appears to be seized. Maybe some heat. Anyways, even though my suspension was not so bad, my inability to cleanly get out the ball joints for the steering and control arm, mean that I will be replacing much more of my suspension than I anticipated. It may be a new car when I am done...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
Yes, use heat. Get it cherry red if there are no rubber or plastic bits in the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Soak the bolt with penetrating oil, leave for a little while, soak it again... it will help loosen it up. Then use heat and try to break it loose.

Check your motor mounts while you have the sub frame out. Mine were fine and were probably replaced by PO so I left them alone.

I found both inner tie rod boots torn and replaced those.

I didn’t do any suspension at that time. That is next. I’m going to add the reinforcements to the strut mounts. Are you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes, use heat. Get it cherry red if there are no rubber or plastic bits in the way.
I have the whole carrier and strut combination off of the car so I can heat it without burning anything else. Thats good to know I can heat it that much without damaging the carrier.
 

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Soak the bolt with penetrating oil, leave for a little while, soak it again... it will help loosen it up. Then use heat and try to break it loose.

Check your motor mounts while you have the sub frame out. Mine were fine and were probably replaced by PO so I left them alone.

I found both inner tie rod boots torn and replaced those.

I didn’t do any suspension at that time. That is next. I’m going to add the reinforcements to the strut mounts. Are you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have been under the car and I think my motor mounts are good but will check more thoroughly when I get the subframe off.
I have owned the car since new so I know all of the history and know it was not too abused. The strut mounts steel looks good and I don't think I will reinforce. But I was not aware of those cracking so I researched it and I thank you for bringing that to my attention.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
That rusted pinch bolt on the carrier needs heat. When you heat the carrier, angle the reflected flame away from the shock which is filled with oil and seals and stuff. The carrier is only threaded on the far side from the bolt head. Penetrant is only good for a few threads; you can try it but after about 100 foot-pounds you risk breaking the bolt head off. Do heat to just before dull red and give it a go. Once you hear it crack a tad, be patient and ease it out. Maybe a little more heat if you need it.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
Joined
·
5,517 Posts
The inner race pops off every time.

I use one of these to get it off the hub:

You can borrow one at a parts store
 

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The inner race pops off every time.

I use one of these to get it off the hub:

You can borrow one at a parts store
The other pinch bolt came off pretty easy with the heat, thanks for that. I ordered new ones.
I will remember the bearing separator for next time. I got your response after my buddy had already tried to torch the race off of the hub. It was probably ok, but I went the safer route and ordered a new hub.

I finally got to the oil pan yesterday to replace the gasket. I have to say it was much more daunting on the XI than I realized. I seems that all of the videos to do this are the RWD models so it would make you think you can do it in an afternoon. I had no experience UNDER the car, with my only experience on the car being the intake manifold refresh.

I did end up having to replace my engine mounts which I thought were good... when I unbolted the passenger side engine mount, it started dumping oil. I did not realize there was oil in that one.

I am wiring on the oil pump nut even though i don't race. Figure it was this much work to get here so might as well be safe. The nut was firmly in place so i doubt it was going to be a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Nice work! It is a ton of work changing the oil pan gasket. Good you caught the motor mount. Change both seals on each side of the diff, between pedestal and diff on the passenger side and diff and axle on the driver side. I got new c-clips for the axles too (I drove to dealership for these cause I forgot to order these but their cheap). Once I got everything back together my car wouldn’t crank or start. Figured starter coincidentally went out. Changed the starter but still same problem. After two days of researching, an article mentioned the ground strap to the chassis or subframe, and i remembered removing it but not reconnecting. There it was dangling! I guess I don’t have to worry about the starter now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2004 330xi Manual, 2019 X3 M40i
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Wow, that would be totally unexpected to me, that the simple ground strap would cause a no-crank. I just had to do the starter at 129k which is what started this crazy journey of replacing (seemingly) everything. Fortunately the parts are readily available and not too expensive.

Regarding the seals, do you mean the o-rings between the pedestal and the oil pan and the diff and the oil pan or are you referring to something else.

I am just starting to re-assemble today. I appreciate the problem and need to re-assemble it quick before I forget all of the LITTLE things I had do undo to take it apart. The big things are obvious.
Please remind me to add oil before it start it up!o_O
 

·
Registered
2018 Audi S4
Joined
·
6,316 Posts
I've done a half dozen front axles and only had one that I needed force to push out of the hub. That one moved by using my air hammer and a straight bit, all the others pushed out by hand. The last 3 I did, I dropped the outer ball joint so the knuckle could swing out of the way. The Harbor Freight separator works nicely for that, just take your time with it.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top