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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you manual drivers who've already had to replace their clutch:

At what mileage did you have to replace it at? Were you an aggressive driver who tore it up quickly, an average driver, or relatively sedate driver, causing minimal wear over time?

And:

What symptoms did you have that confirmed it was time to change?

I'm at 132,XXX, and I'm fearing the time for a new clutch may be arriving.

Also, for those of you who changed the clutch yourself, how hard did you find it, what (if any) special tools did you use, what new clutch did you install (stock or sport clutch kit?), what's the best method to remove the tranny (I've heard of everything from using special lifts, to just lowering it by hand under your own strength, as apparently it's not supposed to be that heavy), and do you have any helpful suggestions or tips that would make a clutch replacement easier?

I know that's a lot of questions. Thanks to anyone who can provide some helpful insight. :pimpin:
 

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Just Nuts
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113k and no need for new clutch yet. But my throw out bearing is going when the weather is cold. The metal thrust plate on it no longer swivels freely in its 'cup' when cold. This produces squealing against the pressure plate when turning.

At a guess I don't believe DIY clutch change is difficult if you can raise the car to the right height, and have it sit safe.
 

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Replaced mine around 140k. Avg driver. Noticed an increase frequency of a shuddering throughout the car as I let the clutch out. Figured it was due to slippage. When I saw the disc my suspicions were confirmed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
113k and no need for new clutch yet. But my throw out bearing is going when the weather is cold. The metal thrust plate on it no longer swivels freely in its 'cup' when cold. This produces squealing against the pressure plate when turning.

At a guess I don't believe DIY clutch change is difficult if you can raise the car to the right height, and have it sit safe.
Yeah, I plan on doing it myself, as it seems to be within my mechanical ability range, but I wanted to get others' opinions and see if anyone found it to be a PITA or anything. (I'm not a mechanic or anything, but I do have some experience with cars, and I wanted to see how the average DIYer found this job and whether or not you can do it with mostly average tools.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replaced mine around 140k. Avg driver. Noticed an increase frequency of a shuddering throughout the car as I let the clutch out. Figured it was due to slippage. When I saw the disc my suspicions were confirmed.
Dbear, I also have been noticing the shuddering for a while. It seems I may be following in your footsteps.
 

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my car's got 156k and I've not done anything to the clutch yet...although I have no idea what the previous owner might have done. Also I don't think I'm that nice to it...I did remove a 1992 325i tranny the other day and it wasn't that bad and it dosen't really weight that much (manageable for one guy).
 

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another question is the necessity of changing the dual mass flywheel. I am on the fence if I will replace mine because they are expen$ive as crap
 

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they are very pricey...i was thinking about getting a lightweight one for my E36 project car; until I realized they cost more than half what I paid for the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yeah, I've read some about changing the flywheel while you're in there, but what exactly is the deal? I take it the dual mass flywheel is not OEM? And I assume if it is, it won't come in any clutch kit?

EDIT: oops, nm, I just read up on the flywheel. Still, what exactly are the recommendations about changing it?
 

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Apple Jews
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i just put in the UUC clutch kit + lightweight fly wheel.

i absolutely LOVE it :drool:
my release bearing made it to 113k and went kaput. clutch still gripped, but was starting to go.
 

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i am at about 85k, i think my clutch is getting close 2 retiring. i drive it very soft 90% of the time and F*** the S*** out of it 10% of the time. lately i have noticed that it slips longer when i shift very agressively, and last time i tried doing a first and second gear burnout in the rain, my rpms were up, but i dont think it was the wheels that were spinning when i hit second gear. i have gotten a lot of opinions on lightweight flywheels. the general opinion is that your acceleration will b NICE, but when you hit the highway, it will b harder 2 maintain momentum and u will have 2 press the gas more. i have also heard horrer stories of lightweight flywheels causing major engine damage (ask Flipside) and even coming through the floor of the car. i think i would pass on that.

oh and also, i am the 3rd owner. i live in suburbs and never srive in traffic... the 2 previous owners lived in NY :banghead:
 

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Dbear, I also have been noticing the shuddering for a while. It seems I may be following in your footsteps.
Would have attempted to replace myself but being that this is my daily driver didn't want to get over my head but after reading a few DIY for this item seems fairly straight forward so long as you take your time and follow the steps. Might also look into replacing your flex disc also.

Good luck
 

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i just put in the UUC clutch kit + lightweight fly wheel.

i absolutely LOVE it :drool:
my release bearing made it to 113k and went kaput. clutch still gripped, but was starting to go.
the aluminum one?

if so, then it's not annoying to drive in traffic etc.?

also, which clutch did you get?
 

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Apple Jews
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the aluminum one?

if so, then it's not annoying to drive in traffic etc.?

also, which clutch did you get?
yes, aluminum.. 8.5 pounds :yikes:
its not annoying at all. it came with their stage II clutch.. the performance organic one. NOT the OEM m5 one (he was out of stock, so i got the better one)

i do have gear rattle, but my idle is low. i haven't chipped the car. if you bring it to 1k-1.1k rpm, the rattle goes away. the sound isnt as annoying as i thought it would be, and its not too loud. other than that, it grips quick, and revvs quicker. i LOVE it.

of all the mods ive done, this is my fav.

this is it: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/LFWLE46SH.htm
 

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Apple Jews
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and whoever says there is loss of torque.. its all lies. yes, there is less spinning mass/momentum in the wheel.. but you still have the SAME power output of the engine. you are able to get to the higher torque producing RPMs quicker, and thus get the torque/hp quicker. its a steeper curve on the dyno chart. :str8pimpi
 

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Apple Jews
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Just Nuts
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Yeah, I've read some about changing the flywheel while you're in there, but what exactly is the deal? I take it the dual mass flywheel is not OEM? And I assume if it is, it won't come in any clutch kit?

EDIT: oops, nm, I just read up on the flywheel. Still, what exactly are the recommendations about changing it?
There's no reason to change the flywheel just because you are in there when you DIY. You can always be in there again whenever. Having seen a flywheel made by LuK, the thing was so sturdy and substantial, I thought it'd never break. There's a very good chance you don't need to replace it.
 

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how much is the clutch/pressure plate kit?

im curious. the uuc kit in total was $1000ish
When I did my manual conversion, I got my clutch kit from turner motorsport for $247. So I paid around half of what I would have paid for the UUC ltw fly/M5 clutch. Although its a lot better combo, i was already spending absurd amounts of money so I couldnt justify spending even more for an upgraded clutch. I like oem, its not bad.
 
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