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1999 e39 528i 2001 e46 325i
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Discussion Starter #1
I need to install a new battery terminal cable here's why
914793

See how that's red hot. Now again another picture
914794

Now I need a new cable but I don't know what size butt connector I should get to connect the new cable to the old one. I've heard a 0 gauge butt connector would work but I wanna make sure. Any help is appreciated
 

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According to the schematics looks to be 35mm2 which is roughly AWG #2

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1999 e39 528i 2001 e46 325i
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Discussion Starter #3
According to the schematics looks to be 35mm2 which is roughly AWG #2

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Now does that apply to e39s and e46s and could I use an e39 wire in an e46?
 

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Now does that apply to e39s and e46s and could I use an e39 wire in an e46?
Same gauge. The thicker one that goes to starter is gauge #00 tho but I suspect you're referring to the thinner one.

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Discussion Starter #8
So the amplifer was pulling too much current and caused too much heat?
I don't think that's what it is I think it's just having a bad connection causing high resistance and making it heat up like that. also one of the wires for one of the speakers was connecting to the ground through the wire for some reason melting the insulation so I'm no longer using that speaker but I have another one. I don't think amps and subs do that enough to fuck up the positive terminal cable like that.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Likely your best bet is to go to a junkyard (Dismantler: 21st. century PC name) and cut both the main and aux cables as far fwd. as you can.

Buy the right sided splices and two sizes of high quality heat shrink. Use the barrels, strip the cable ends enough so that the two ends touch each other inside. Crimp (after ample heat shrink is slid far away) and then heat on low with a propane torch. Fill the voids completely with solder. Let cool and then slide the H/D heat shrink down and using a heat gun shrink over.

Done such several times.


Choose the appropriate size.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Likely your best bet is to go to a junkyard (Dismantler: 21st. century PC name) and cut both the main and aux cables as far fwd. as you can.

Buy the right sided splices and two sizes of high quality heat shrink. Use the barrels, strip the cable ends enough so that the two ends touch each other inside. Crimp (after ample heat shrink is slid far away) and then heat on low with a propane torch. Fill the voids completely with solder. Let cool and then slide the H/D heat shrink down and using a heat gun shrink over.

Done such several times.


Choose the appropriate size.
I can buy one of the cables off of eBay for 50$ that was stripped from a parts car not allot of junkyards have bmws near me unfortunately. What kinda solder should I use? I'd like to be able to pick that stuff up locally and I have a few different auto shops near me. It looks like I won't have to do both sides as one part connects right to this thing
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914923

The green side being the part I just bolt in. The blue part I think it would be 2awg as the first person said cause it seems pretty big. I'll buy 2awg and 4awg just in case. And I already have a 3awg butt connector. Also what would you consider HD shrink wrap? Shrink wrap that has a high temp cause I have some that goes up to 122F I think would that work? I don't expect this to be getting ready hot again but you never know.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Works for me.
Any solder, the idea is continuity.
 

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1999 e39 528i 2001 e46 325i
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Discussion Starter #13
Works for me.
Any solder, the idea is continuity.
Ok well there's 2 different types I can get acid core and rosin core and I don't really know that different I'm assuming I don't need an acid core I'd need rosin core?
 

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BMW 325i 2001 Manual
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Ok well there's 2 different types I can get acid core and rosin core and I don't really know that different I'm assuming I don't need an acid core I'd need rosin core?
As far as I know rosin core is the way with cables, copper tubing requires acid core.

I only use rosin core to solder wire and any electrical work.

Acid core needs to be cleaned thoroughly (the flux is acid based). Rosin core does not need to be cleaned (I still do clean the flux off either way)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
As far as I know rosin core is the way with cables, copper tubing requires acid core.

I only use rosin core to solder wire and any electrical work.

Acid core needs to be cleaned thoroughly (the flux is acid based). Rosin core does not need to be cleaned (I still do clean the flux off either way)
Alright considering I don't have flux I will get the rosin core
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So after a little correction I need 1/0 gauge butt connectors the 2 gauge were to small. I've run into a little issue this is a practice wire that I did and I wanna know what's the best way to keep the wires insulation from melting everything else besides that seems like a smooth ride no other issues for me. would I have to use a smaller torch or just try and go slower? Also would a single thing of shrink wrap protect this? Is there anything else I can use that's thicker like multiple wraps of HD electrical tape?
915702
915703
 

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I came to the party a little too late. That heated connector could cause a serious fire. Clean all high current connector really good to avoid car on fire.

How did you solder the cables together? Using a gas torch? I would suggest to use the crimp or U-bolt as the power company used on you home Power Serve entrance where they connected the 2 power lines to your power panel/meter cables. The U-bolt can be bought at Home Depot Electrical Dept. IF you soldered the cables then I hope you did as soldering the copper water pipes. Bad solder connection will heat up and the solder will melt and the hot cable could fall out and ... land on the metal chassis then we have a firework show. So keep an eye on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I came to the party a little too late. That heated connector could cause a serious fire. Clean all high current connector really good to avoid car on fire.

How did you solder the cables together? Using a gas torch? I would suggest to use the crimp or U-bolt as the power company used on you home Power Serve entrance where they connected the 2 power lines to your power panel/meter cables. The U-bolt can be bought at Home Depot Electrical Dept. IF you soldered the cables then I hope you did as soldering the copper water pipes. Bad solder connection will heat up and the solder will melt and the hot cable could fall out and ... land on the metal chassis then we have a firework show. So keep an eye on this.
915717

This is just a practice wire I don't wanna do the real thing till I get it correct so I know nothing like that will happen. Should I crimp it? Or just solder it cause when I solder it it makes it so it's really tough to crimp. With lineman pliers atleast.
915718

These are the parts I soldered together using rosin core solder. I did use a gas torch and heated up the copper then put my solder on and kept pushing it into the small green highlighted hole till it overflowed hoping that the middle gap was filled. I also used the purple highlighted points to make sure it was on there and wouldn't split apart. Now I'm worried about the insulation I use and how to get the current Insulation on the wire not to melt.
 

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1. heat using solder method will melt the insulator and nothing you can do about this. So decide solder or crimp. However the sample looks not bad in term of insulation melting. You can help to minimize by wrapping a wet towel at each end while heating with the torch.
2. To have a good and safe solder job, make sure to brush or sand paper the inner wall of the crimp cylinder and both coper ends of the cables. Then coat a thin layer of rosin (HD have it for water pipe soldering) on all surfaces to be soldered. Assemble the cables and crimp tube, then crimp the tube before heating/soldering. The heat the middle of the tube until red hot then apply the solder starting from one end of the tube, not the hole in the middle. The idea is to let the center heated section pulling the melted solder into the tube.
3. Or just use 2 U-bolts as I said.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
1. heat using solder method will melt the insulator and nothing you can do about this. So decide solder or crimp. However the sample looks not bad in term of insulation melting. You can help to minimize by wrapping a wet towel at each end while heating with the torch.
2. To have a good and safe solder job, make sure to brush or sand paper the inner wall of the crimp cylinder and both coper ends of the cables. Then coat a thin layer of rosin (HD have it for water pipe soldering) on all surfaces to be soldered. Assemble the cables and crimp tube, then crimp the tube before heating/soldering. The heat the middle of the tube until red hot then apply the solder starting from one end of the tube, not the hole in the middle. The idea is to let the center heated section pulling the melted solder into the tube.
3. Or just use 2 U-bolts as I said.
I feel the solder method would look cleaner plus I already bought the solder and okay so I could just pick up some copper water pipe rosin/flux at lowes? Or can I get that at harbor freight? I will definitely use some cold wet rags for the insulation that would be helpful. What about after the job is done what should I use to finish it? HD electrical tape or is there some other thing I can use that will keep it well insulated?
 
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