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what brand were they? defects do happen. BTW, the yellow wire which goes to the footwell light shouldnt be touching metal; as that wire is positive!
 

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I have that same sh1t wiring harness. I am glad that I decided to unplug the harness from power and turned off the angel eyes.
I dont want another thing to worry about after seeing so many subframe failures lately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It would cause a short circuit! I just hooked mine up with the accessories wire and grounded the negative near the brake booster, never had any problems
I just got back from Grand Cayman today, been gone for a week.

For anyone wondering, I figured out the problem... The foot well wire INDEED short circuited the lights!!! Khoatly, btw never contacted me after they said they would, and they should definitely be putting warnings on these lights that should tell the user that hooking up the foot well light is a MUST to assure no complications.

I'm not accusing Khoalty, because obviously I'm the first person with this problem, but the foot well light was barely resting on the metal firewall which caused the short, and in turn the melted wires.

Either way, the lights are SICK-a great product from Khoalty, I love them! :)
 

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. . .
For anyone wondering, I figured out the problem... The foot well wire INDEED short circuited the lights!!! Khoatly, btw never contacted me after they said they would, and they should definitely be putting warnings on these lights that should tell the user that hooking up the foot well light is a MUST to assure no complications.

I'm not accusing Khoalty, because obviously I'm the first person with this problem, but the foot well light was barely resting on the metal firewall which caused the short, and in turn the melted wires.
Glad you like the end result, and that your car didn't burn down - but I think ya, you sort of should blame Khoatly. It sucks that any fool in his garage without any testing or UL/TUV certification can sell whatever he wants.

I've probably bought 4-5 HID kits for my Honda in the pursuit of finding the best one (returning the bad ones) just till I got something I was comfortable with the wiring.

I saw this the other day on the Hella website and thought it was interesting. . .though it more was focusing on shining light where you don't want it instead of your car melting.

http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaUSA/WebSite/Channels/Drivers/Tested_and_Approved.jsp

Glad you got it figured out though.

Why didn't your fuse pop? What size fuse do you have in there?
That looked like 16ga wire, maybe even 18ga - that insulation can melt with only an amp or two of energy if it completes a circuit to something it shouldn't.

Also the insulation on almost all aftermarket stuff (stereo systems, alarms, headlights) doesn't have the thicker insulation required for under hood or high heat areas (headlights would be such an area).

There are two kinds of insulation for wires in cars: PVC and XPE, and each one of those has 3 different thicknesses. PVC is for most in-cabin wiring, XPE is for most under hood wiring.

I'm not even sure if automotive wires have the same rules that residential and commercial wires do for labeling on the wire of its composition and capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
wow i am going down right now to tape that sh**!!! :rofl:
haha, ya i'm sure glad it didn't decide to touch when I was in the middle of driving... That would have been really bad...
Why didn't your fuse pop? What size fuse do you have in there?
I believe the fuse is a 30A... I think. I can verify tomorrow.
Glad you like the end result, and that your car didn't burn down - but I think ya, you sort of should blame Khoatly. It sucks that any fool in his garage without any testing or UL/TUV certification can sell whatever he wants.
ya u kinda have a point.
 

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you have an open wire. and you have ground right next to it. this causes sparks and shorts and fires.
insulate all of your wiring PLEASE. then you should be good :thumbup:
 
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