One of those cases (like coil springs) where realoem.com is useless. You have to look at the one you currently have. A mirror and bright light work well.

 

Fwiw, make sure the fat red cable on the back of the alternator is tightly attached. Same with all the other connections. Just in case something came loose since the battery and alternator were last replaced.

 

Cable is attached fine - not sure what I am looking for other than 2 or 3 pin connector. I know it is a 2 pin connector - checked that out after making the post.

BMW Remanufactured 120 Amp Alternator - Genuine BMW 12317501690

BMW Remanufactured 120 Amp Alternator - Genuine BMW 12317501690

www.fcpeuro.com

Oddly OEMBimmerParts.com insists the above alternator is for a 528i and not for a 330i. Pelican Parts thinks the same model # has a 3 pin connector while the desc at FCP is 2 pin.

I think this is it... Of course - no one has it locally - not even the Bosch AL0703X.

 

Look at the shape of the connector as well, since this is where the most fitment problems arise with Bosch alternators. Some of the Bosch 120amp alternators (like mine) have a voltage regulator with a square end on one side of the connector that plugs into it and round on the other end.

Here is a picture of mine (and I have seen the same alternator on a 2004 330i also)

Unfortunately, there is a plethora of threads on asking how to fit a square connector into a round plugged alternator, or vice versa. If your connector is shaped like the pics above, then be careful because many of the part numbers and online catalogs may lead you astray.

Fwiw, the FCP euro alternator you posted has a completely round square plug.

Here is a recent thread about this with respect to just the voltage regulator which is what the wiring harness of the car plugs into ... turns out there are three connector types to watch out for: square, round and hybrid of both.

Voltage Regulator

As my odometer passed 260,000 miles, it occurred to me that the last four cars I have owned that had Bosch alternators have all worn out the brushes in the alternator at about a quarter-million miles. Rather than wait for the Charge warning light to come on and my alternator slip rings to get...

www.e46fanatics.com

 

I bought a NAPA brand alternator for my Valero equipped 330ci. Turns out, Valero was stamped on the housing. Seems they also carried Bosch

 

I looked at the plug with a endoscope and pretty positive it was a "square" that is actually more rectangle like this ine from the other thread:

 

Read the label at the back of the alternator. That’s the only way to tell for sure. Hopefully it’s a Bosch.

 

First post noted the sticker on the side of the alternator in the car.

 

 

A guy on FaceBook has a WorldPac account (Buckeye chapter of CCA) and he verified that Bosch AL0703X corresponds to 12317501690 from RealOEM - at least according to WorldPac.. Also noted that the square/rectangular plug is 'technically' 3 prong but only fitted with 2 prongs (smh - I am appropriating SMH to be "so much hell" instead of "shaking my head" because it fits better ).

Soooo it looks like I have the answer (Bosch AL0703X / 12317501690 ) but no matter what I will need to check the plug to make sure it is rectangular instead of oval (just in case). And I think I can probably say the alternator in the car is probably original.

Unfortunately - it looks like the only way to get it quickly is via AutoZone/AdvanceAuto or NAPA (most expensive other than RCPEuro) to the tune of 10-14 days sooner than FCP.

 

You can get it in a day from FCP or ecs.

 

FCP was showing no less than 11 days from now and that was by paying more

 

Yes - I did not think about ECS/Turner who will ship tomorrow...

 

Shoot, you could potentially drive to ECS!

FCP shows that I would get that part Tuesday. I must be doing it wrong

 

FWIW, when the alternator died on our 2004 325xi,

I replaced it with a spare I had for the 2000 528.
To my significant surprise.

So yes, there is crossover, but it seems to happen by accident.

Around here, they are often in stock in local OhReally's.

t

 

FWIW, when the alternator died on our 2004 325xi,

I replaced it with a spare I had for the 2000 528.
To my significant surprise.

So yes, there is crossover, but it seems to happen by accident.

Around here, they are often in stock in local OhReally's.

t

I was hoping but alas - none were had in the area.

FCP shows that I would get that part Tuesday. I must be doing it wrong

Do they ship out of CA - assuming you are still in CA? Since I am in Ohio...

 

They ship out of Connecticut!

 

I used a mirror and flashlight to look at back of alt. Bosch 120v was quite visible on sticker.

 

Pretty much how it needs to be done (as mentioned in post #2).

 

Found this from google. Maybe my bosch is missing the cooling cover, or maybe never had one, but I believe it is like one on left. I'll have to see what the cooling tube connects to.

 

There she is, out of the car. The bolts have a little bit of surface rust. Should I clean them up with penetrating oil and will I have to take the bolt out from the bottom, rear of the alternator or will the new one come with it? I will probably pray a bit of penetrating oil on the threads on the engine before I go about putting it on. I can use a wire brush to clean the bolts and wipe them down with a little bit of oil.

I have a feeling it is going to be a royal pain to get the new one in and aligned for the bolts

 

The bolts have a little bit of surface rust.

what bolts? You are not talking about the small long bolts holding the alternator housing halves together, do you (no reasons to open the housing uo)? If they are the big long bolts holding the alternator to the oil filter housing, then there is a sliding nut (on the alternator ear) that will slide forward when tightening the bolt to lock it up.

 

Cyclon,

The pictures on the FCP Euro link you sent shows new unrusted nut in that spot, so the replacement will likely have one. If you need to swap it, use kroil or other penetrant to help press it out.

Love the Valeo air scoop on the rebuilt bosch alternator you have ...

 

Use penetrating oil on the nut and a long pry bar to get the alternator moving and wiggle it out. It's a tight press fit in there for sure, but the pry bar leverage helps. Hammering on it too hard risks breaking the aluminum ear/bracket or even bashing the radiator in front on a back swing. Work at it with 2 foot pry bar between the alternator & ofh and it will come out.

Not an issue now bc you are replacing, but fwiw once removed I then use a couple sockets and a large claw vise grips to press the nut further out for ease of installation.

 

Use penetrating oil on the nut and a long pry bar to get the alternator moving and wiggle it out. It's a tight press fit in there for sure

Don't use pry bar as it can crack the ear. Use a socket as spacer and the same bolt to pull the said nut rearward 1mm to free the alternator from the oil filter housing.

 

It is done... On the new one it has a little sticker. So my guess is the old one was rebuilt.

Probably take it into auto store to have it tested and see if I can replace the regulator and have a spare.

 

You might check out this thread, where I posted over on 318ti.org: alternator rebuild - 318ti.org forum, starting around post #5. I've replaced brushes and bearings on the alternator that you removed. I can tell you that anything that requires access to the inside of the case is painful.

 

You might check out this thread, where I posted over on 318ti.org: alternator rebuild - 318ti.org forum, starting around post #5. I've replaced brushes and bearings on the alternator that you removed. I can tell you that anything that requires access to the inside of the case is painful.

I saw the 2 pics of your rebuilt alternator. The "button" I think is for indexing the two case halves to ensure the stator coil wires were soldered to the proper diode bridge board. I would like to see a pic of the stator wires ends soldered on the bridge board as the soldering was done after the 2 halves bolted together. So the proper way to open the case is to remove the solder completely off the soldering joints to free up the stator from the rear half.

 

Hope never to have to do it again - the other version of alternator is much easier to split the case halves.