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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. Having issues getting my car aligned.

It***8217;s a E46 323 convertible, sitting on ac Schnitzer sprigs, m-sport shocks. So sits low. All bushes have been replaced with poly items, so no issues with worn bushes.

Went to get alignment done, and the rear doesn***8217;t want to cooperate. I know lowering it brings in camber, and the lower you are the more camber. Sits slightly lower than m-sport/ZHP height.

Rear right, the camber bolt has been maxed out to remove camber and it***8217;s sitting at -3.39!!! Left side has got enough play to come close to spec, car remember exactly what atm. The toe isn***8217;t far off, and has more room for adjustment. So just an issue with camber on that one side.

It wasn***8217;t like this before, as had it aligned some time ago, after doing all the bushes, and it was fine very close to spec, liveable in fact considering the lows. When I did the bushes, all arms where fine at that point.

Only change that has occurred in recent times is I had the rear wheel bearings done. And the driveshafts/axles couldn***8217;t be removed from the trailing arm. One arm actually broke trying to press out the axle!!! So the trailing arms, and axles had to be replaced. All control arms remained the same as far as I know. Didn***8217;t do the work myself.

Any ideas guys?

Can***8217;t be the camber arm according to my thinking, as any bends would cause more positive camber right? Not negative, as in essence the bottom of the arm would get pulled more towards the centre of the car?

My thoughts are possibly a slight bend in the upper control arm, as that would pull the upper of the arm in, causing negative camber, or maybe the RTAB carrier got twisted or bent, rotating the whole arm? Or even the replacement trailing arm itself?

Will try and inspect it all once there is light outside.

Need this sorting as i can***8217;t be having my rear tyres getting chewed up.

If all else fails I suppose fitting more adjustable camber arms is the way to go. But I would rather find what***8217;s causing this issue.

Oh also, no frame damage, as said, I***8217;ve had it aligned in the past with no bother. Only thing that***8217;s changed on the rear since then is the wheels bearings, oh and also spacers fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wouldn***8217;t mind, but as it was able to be adjusted before, there must be cause for it not to go less that -3.39. I***8217;ll need to find my old printouts to see what it was previously. But it was considerably better for sure.
 

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+1 on the adjustable lower rear camber control arm. The eccentric in the stock setup probably doesn't have the adjustability to accommodate your lower ride height geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestion a guys. Looks like I may have to go down that route. I***8217;m just a tad confused as to why it***8217;s like that. Alignment specs have been confirmed with Schnitzer, and they say it should align to m-sport/ZHP specifications. All bushes are new.

None of the arms looked bent, all looked good.

Only that that I noticed, and not sure why I didn***8217;t correct it is, the rear shock hasn***8217;t been bolted up correctly. The bottom is flipped 180, so the little square bracket is sandwiched to the trailing arm, rather than the on the other side and towards the bolt head. Can that throw out the alignment?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So found my old printouts from previous alignment. Camber was at -2.2 just missing the oe spec. So why the big jump?
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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Only change that has occurred in recent times is I had the rear wheel bearings done. And the driveshafts/axles couldn't be removed from the trailing arm. One arm actually broke trying to press out the axle!!! So the trailing arms, and axles had to be replaced. All control arms remained the same as far as I know. Didn't do the work myself.
I suspect they bent something, possibly the trailing arm. Since you didn't do the work, you don't know for sure. You'd have to have a quality suspension shop do some careful measurements to see what is wrong. The alignment folks should be able to tell you, if they're competent.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Only change that has occurred in recent times is I had the rear wheel bearings done. And the driveshafts/axles couldn't be removed from the trailing arm. One arm actually broke trying to press out the axle!!! So the trailing arms, and axles had to be replaced. All control arms remained the same as far as I know. Didn't do the work myself.
I suspect they bent something, possibly the trailing arm. Since you didn't do the work, you don't know for sure. You'd have to have a quality suspension shop do some careful measurements to see what is wrong. The alignment folks should be able to tell you, if they're competent.

I***8217;m suspecting the same thing, I don***8217;t think my alignment guys are that competent tbh, they can move some bolts and do a alignment that***8217;s about it aha.

Yh I was thinking I***8217;ll need to take measurements from various points and compare it to the other side. My suspicions possibly a bent mounting ***8216;ears***8217; on the control arms. Thought was, as the arms where second hand, when they pressed out the old bearings to fit my new ones, perhaps the ***8216;ears***8217; got tweaked. If not that then the upper control arm or spring perch. Visually I couldn***8217;t see anything bent. But I suppose it only needs to be off a tiny amount doesn***8217;t it.

Next time I get a chance I***8217;ll try taking measurements from various points on both sides and I***8217;ll compare. I have vague ideas in my mind for spots to measure from.
 
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