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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
FIXED!!!

Hello everyone, I’m hoping to get some answers from all you smart folks, as I am pretty confused. As the title already hints, I am trying to figure out my ABS/DSC problem on a 2002 BMW 325xi with 145K miles. I am suck with this code, and completely confused on what it may mean.
2F: “Dynamic Stability Control (DSC): outlet valve, left rear”

Any help is appreciated, thank you!
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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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In a nutshell, your car has 4 wheel ABS/DSC. should the left rear start to encounter ice on braking, the DSC module will release the pressure for the left rear brake caliper. Currently it sees a connection issue with the electric solenoid of the left rear inside the DSC unit.

Could be the module itself? (Most likely) or the valve inside the metal housing is bad? (Less likely.)

You can go to a junkyard, find the same module used and screw it on. Chances are it might have another fault, but not likely to have the SAME fault.
If the fault is different, you need a rebuilt module. That's the black electrical part that screws onto the front of the DSC module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Thank you for the reply. I appreciate your input!

I was getting a completely different error/code before the brake fluid flush.
“5C Dynamic Stability Control (DSC): pressure sensor test”

Fluid was extremely bad, with white chunks of deposits in the reservoir. Had to take everything apart and clean the master cylinder, pre-charge pump, and so on.

Speed sensors seem to work fine as I see them on the scanner registering the speed until I lose communication with the ABS Module. Not sure why I can’t read any Live Data over 20mph.

Just ordered a donor module with the metal valves/pump from eBay, matching part numbers on both units. Do you think I would need to code the module, or it would be plug and play?

Thanks for your time!
 

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Yeah, you have to code replacement module to your VIN. What year is the unit you bought? Best to get 2004+. Also, replacing the master brake cylinder with new OEM unit for ~$45 made sense to me while there. Search my useid and "master cylinder" to turn up source; let know if you don't find. You'll also want INPA (search forum for more detail) to bleed DSC after replacement . GL
 

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When I replaced the DSC module on my E39 I had to code the module to my car using NCS Expert and calibrate the steering angle using DIS. I believe there are many posts on this. I believe this is the same for an E46.

On my E46 I recently coded the LCM to my VIN using BMW Scanner 1.4. I expect that can also be used for the dsc module.

NCS Expert and BMW Scanner 1.4 use different cables, but neither are expensive.
 

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'02 330i 5 Speed and '02 330i Auto
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Do you think I would need to code the module, or it would be plug and play?
Yes. I just did this on my neighbor's E46. Very easy. Just make sure you fully bleed the module.

Links to help you:
 

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My reasoning for trying a used module was to see if the fault is with the electric part, or inside the hydraulic part.
We have many used (bad) DSC modules here at the shop. We have them on the shelf with the faults listed on them.

If your car was in my shop (Fault 2F) I would grab another module with a DIFFERENT fault. Cycle the key and if the same #2F fault returned I now know the issue is likely inside the hydraulic unit. If the fault changed to the one listed on the outside of the bad module, I now know that the module on your car is bad.

Given the amount of goo you have inside the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, I would be doing two brake flushes with a fast drive on a open dirt road with a lot of heavy brake applications to flush out the goo from the DSC hydraulic unit. It will eventually all come out, but may take several brake flushes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good stuff guy! I appreciate everyone taking the time to chip in, help with the issue. Keep it coming, it’s very helpful!

I have a donor module and hydraulic pump coming very so. Not sure what year car it came off of, but it is matching part numbers on both units and supposedly in good working condition. My Autel can bleed the hydraulic unit and can calibrate the necessary sensors. However, I can’t do coding with it. Would have to do a little more search on the two programs mentioned above to take care of that.

By the way, I did buy a used module a while back and had a local guy code it to my vin. Still had the same code regarding the pressure sensor test. That’s when I decided to look into flushing the fluid, and realized how bad it was.

Thank you for all your helpful posts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just to give everyone an update on the problem I was dealing with.

After months of dealing with this ABS problem, 5 ABS Modules, 3 ABS Pumps, 5 Pressure Switch Sensors, 2 visits to the Coding guy, bleeding the system 5 times with Pentosin DOT4 LV, and $600 later… The problem is FINALLY addressed!

Let me just say, the only reason I went after the ABS module wasn’t only because I read all the complaints of these modules going bad and throwing random codes, but primarily because every time I tried to look at the live data on the scanner while I get moving with the car, the module would shutdown and lose communication (around 7-8mph). Wasn’t sure if that was normal once it senses a problem, or the module was losing power once the car starts rolling.

After changing bunch of ABS modules, I still got the same code Pressure Sensor Test fault and the lights appeared at around 20mph or at a higher rpm. Replaced the ABS Pump together with a coded module, bled the system few times, no change.

I then decided to move up the system to the Brake Master Cylinder and the Pre-Charge Pump (Compressor DSC part # 34511166087). I was able to source them used in a good working condition. After replacing them both and bled the brake system for the 100th time, there were no more lights at speed.

Problem was most likely in the pre-charge pump, not creating enough pressure in the system.
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Thanks to everyone that has posted on here with helpful advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, I’ve bought the car 8 months ago with the existing ABS issue. I’ve just recently started messing with it, as it requires a lot of brake fluid flush (every time a part is changed) and the weather wasn’t permitting me to do that outside. Luckily, I kept finding affordable used parts at the junk yard and eBay so it wasn’t that much. Most of the money went for expensive Brake Fluid and Coding.
 
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