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Discussion Starter #1
So, had the Beamer in for the airbag recall, and as part of their inspection was told the selector shaft seal is leaking. Dealer quoted $280 to replace.

Researching this, it looks like there is quite a bit of work involved, lowering the transmission, driveshaft, tranny crossmember, etc. I'm almost certain BMW dealer isn't doing this amount of work for $280.

Question then, can this seal be changed on the car without having to do all this? Is this a DIY project, or is the juice not worth the squeeze given the (relatively) low cost quoted by the dealer?
 

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Drop exhaust, drop driveshaft, remove shifter assembly, and replace the seal. Or attempt to remove shifter assembly while the exhaust and driveshaft is still installed but that is a struggle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Drop exhaust, drop driveshaft, remove shifter assembly, and replace the seal. Or attempt to remove shifter assembly while the exhaust and driveshaft is still installed but that is a struggle.
I know with 100% certainty the dealer is not doing all this work for $280.
 

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http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1206401

check this thread, i bought the set from ebay, have not done the repair yet
Coincidentally, yesterday morning I was topping up the ATF fluid due to the slow leak from the selector shaft seal ... but unfortunately this is after replacing the seal a second time using the ebay kit that luuk posted in the thread above.

The little white plastic install tool/cone was very usefull but I was still able to damage lower edge of the new seal while pushing on, though much less than the first install. I don't understand why there is a narrow flat edge on that install cone that still allows the inner lip of the seal to hit the very sharp edge of the selector shaft. The silver lining is that the new (2nd) seal has slowed the leak enough to keep the atf off the garage floor ... so happy with that at least.

If ... if I do this a third time, I would use a small fine file to knock down & smooth out the sharp edge of the selector shaft. Also, rough edges on the inside of the seal removal tool marred the end of the selector shaft a bit, so I'll need to smooth out the inside of the removal tool and the end of the selector shaft with some fine girt sandpaper & oil.

Thanks. I had already read through this, but it wasn't obviously clear if I had to drain the tranny. I guess it would be a good time to do a fluid filter change anyway. Looks like a pain to do either way.
I did not drain the atf or lower the pan either time I changed the selector seal since you are pulling the seal from the outside. Yes, a major pain ... the awkward access makes lining up everything correctly a challenge and then you must apply a good amount of force pushing in with a prybar while also turning a wrench. I had the car up pretty high, maybe 5 or 6 notches on 3 ton jack stands to have plenty of working room.
 

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I know with 100% certainty the dealer is not doing all this work for $280.
Yeah, I agree, no way they do all this for that ...

Edit: ... and if they are I want to know how.
 

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Most shops charge for all the labor to replace the seal the hard way, Drop exhaust, drop driveshaft, remove shifter assembly but turn around and use the puller and install the seal without doing all of this.

This is how many shops and mechanics make more than lawyers and plumbers!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Coincidentally, yesterday morning I was topping up the ATF fluid due to the slow leak from the selector shaft seal ... but unfortunately this is after replacing the seal a second time using the ebay kit that luuk posted in the thread above.

The little white plastic install tool/cone was very usefull but I was still able to damage lower edge of the new seal while pushing on, though much less than the first install. I don't understand why there is a narrow flat edge on that install cone that still allows the inner lip of the seal to hit the very sharp edge of the selector shaft. The silver lining is that the new (2nd) seal has slowed the leak enough to keep the atf off the garage floor ... so happy with that at least.

If ... if I do this a third time, I would use a small fine file to knock down & smooth out the sharp edge of the selector shaft. Also, rough edges on the inside of the seal removal tool marred the end of the selector shaft a bit, so I'll need to smooth out the inside of the removal tool and the end of the selector shaft with some fine girt sandpaper & oil.



I did not drain the atf or lower the pan either time I changed the selector seal since you are pulling the seal from the outside. Yes, a major pain ... the awkward access makes lining up everything correctly a challenge and then you must apply a good amount of force pushing in with a prybar while also turning a wrench. I had the car up pretty high, maybe 5 or 6 notches on 3 ton jack stands to have plenty of working room.
Thanks, at least this confirms it is possible to do.
 

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So, had the Beamer in for the airbag recall, and as part of their inspection was told the selector shaft seal is leaking. Dealer quoted $280 to replace.

Researching this, it looks like there is quite a bit of work involved, lowering the transmission, driveshaft, tranny crossmember, etc. I'm almost certain BMW dealer isn't doing this amount of work for $280.

Question then, can this seal be changed on the car without having to do all this? Is this a DIY project, or is the juice not worth the squeeze given the (relatively) low cost quoted by the dealer?
Thanks, at least this confirms it is possible to do.
Happy to relate my experience on this. If I try again, I should be able to get a new seal on without damaging it. On your original question though, I would say that $280 for a dealer replacing this seal and with a warranty is a very reasonable alternative to this diy route ... tilting the engine/trany down is kind of half way to tranmission removal.

E46 transmission view of top & starter.jpg.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Happy to relate my experience on this. If I try again, I should be able to get a new seal on without damaging it. On your original question though, I would say that $280 for a dealer replacing this seal and with a warranty is a very reasonable alternative to this diy route ... tilting the engine/trany down is kind of half way to tranmission removal.

View attachment 736808
From what I am reading, it is possible to change this gasket without anything more than removing the linkage.
 

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From what I am reading, it is possible to change this gasket without anything more than removing the linkage.
The alternatives I read about involved using a pick tool or small screwdriver to pull/pick/lever out the old seal, but they also warn about scoring or damaging transmission housing the seal sits in. Is that what you are looking at?

The only reason at all to lower the transmission is to create clearance for the removal tool.
 

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Hello

Fluid is leaking from the gear selector shaft. I have to change transmission selector shaft seal. Could you help me to find the product number of the proper selector shaft seal.

BMW 325XI E46 2004 PR17778

Transmission is A5S390R.
 

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Hello

Fluid is leaking from the gear selector shaft. I have to change transmission selector shaft seal. Could you help me to find the product number of the proper selector shaft seal.

BMW 325XI E46 2004 PR17778

Transmission is A5S390R.
Instead of trying to remove the okd seal and replace it, I would just do the simpler fix that LeverThis describes.
 
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