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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I think I mentioned this before. But if Kburger is having repeated problems with his M52TU throttle body (used only in '99 & '00), and has already tried replacing it with a replacement, it is likely not his throttle body, but the wiring in the stupid round 10-pin connector on the harness. The back of that connector, and its pins/wirings is open to the elements in the air flow around the engine block and easily degrades, causing tiny changes in millivolts sent/received between DME and throttle body (aka MDK), throwing the car into limp mode.

I have replaced the throttle body on my M52TU e39 six or seven times.

Here is a solution:

You could also try a used engine harness, but it will soon have the same problem. Several years ago, I looked into a new Genuine harness...according to my dealer parts counter, it had to be ordered from Germany and it was $750.

I haven't fixed my car yet..its in storage, but one idea I have, is to get the parts referred to in the link above, find a used harness - make sure its the correct one..year/model/trans, have the repair done professionally by an electronics specialist (I suck at wiring/soldering) and replace the harness. This will minimize down time.
I have a spare complete engine harness. I examined the back of the connector carefully it does not look like dirt can get to the front where the female pins are. This would make the solution link posted above useless because it only seals the back of the connector not the front. Has anyone completely dissected it? It is a very nice write up however.
Kburger
 

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I have a spare complete engine harness. I examined the back of the connector carefully it does not look like dirt can get to the front where the female pins are. This would make the solution link posted above useless because it only seals the back of the connector not the front. Has anyone completely dissected it? It is a very nice write up however.
Kburger
moisture gets in leading to corrosion....
 

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So ultimately, what needs to be done is somehow locate someone producing the military style connector and some new pins. Can you salvage the pins original and reconnect them if you have some proper tools or some serious patience?
 

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So ultimately, what needs to be done is somehow locate someone producing the military style connector and some new pins. Can you salvage the pins original and reconnect them if you have some proper tools or some serious patience?
This is the solution IMO:

 

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Kburger did you get and install the grommet yet? curious if it led to any discernable difference in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
I have the grommet have not installed yet. I will posit when I do it. Car been running fine for a week now.
 

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thats not a solution because you cannot get those pin/wires anywhere they are no longer available.
kburger
The pin/wire combination is part # 61-13-0-007-656

How extensively have you searched?
ECS Tuning has them as NLA
FCPEuro shows them as "Available"
Have you gone to a dealer parts desk and see if they see any in their system?

If they are indeed NLA we can probably still find the pins in a Tyco catalog.

There do appear to be International sellers on Ebay as well.
10x Original BMW 61130007656 - [SUPER PREIS] Rundstecker 0,5- 1,0 MM² 1er 3e... 10x Genuine BMW 61130007656 - [Super Price] Round Connectors 0,5 - 1,0 MM² 1er 3e... | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
The pin/wire combination is part # 61-13-0-007-656

How extensively have you searched?
ECS Tuning has them as NLA
FCPEuro shows them as "Available"
Have gone to a dealer parts desk and see if they see any in their system?

If they are indeed NLA we can probably still find the pins in a Tyco catalog.

There do appear to be International sellers on Ebay as well.
10x Original BMW 61130007656 - [SUPER PREIS] Rundstecker 0,5- 1,0 MM² 1er 3e... 10x Genuine BMW 61130007656 - [Super Price] Round Connectors 0,5 - 1,0 MM² 1er 3e... | eBay
i have searched extensively. Thank you for the help though. Anyone else reading this feel free to search very difficult to find. The link above is 70 bucks for 10. No thanks.
kburger
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
The pin/wire combination is part # 61-13-0-007-656

How extensively have you searched?
ECS Tuning has them as NLA
FCPEuro shows them as "Available"
Have gone to a dealer parts desk and see if they see any in their system?

If they are indeed NLA we can probably still find the pins in a Tyco catalog.

There do appear to be International sellers on Ebay as well.
10x Original BMW 61130007656 - [SUPER PREIS] Rundstecker 0,5- 1,0 MM² 1er 3e... 10x Genuine BMW 61130007656 - [Super Price] Round Connectors 0,5 - 1,0 MM² 1er 3e... | eBay
the entire point of the writeup on replacing the plug and the pins is to insulate the assembly completely. Without the blue bushings in each wire you lose that. Again, the part listed in the writeup is no longer available. You think a rubber grommet is my entire problem? yeah,,ok. spend a few minutes read my posts over the last 10 years. Yup,,my 735,000 miles is BS....
kburger
 

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Just trying to help KB,,

Have a look at the following and pay particular attention to post #12
 

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Valueable OP, thanks for posting up the differences after installing the grommet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Valueable OP, thanks for posting up the differences after installing the grommet.
No problem. The only issue I have proven so far is the electrical connector. I have driven without the grommet for at least 300,000 miles. I do like it though. The cable seats much better in it and it saves my hands from getting chewed up when removing the lower boot for the 20th time. That's no exaggeration. If anyone finds somewhere to order the pin/wire/blue bushing that is no longer available that would be great. I have a refurb Chinese TB that I think is junk doesn't work that I am going to dissect. If anyone is interested in what's inside I have not seen pictures of the inside of the hybrid m52tu throttle body.
Kburger


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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
No problem. The only issue I have proven so far is the electrical connector. I have driven without the grommet for at least 300,000 miles. I do like it though. The cable seats much better in it and it saves my hands from getting chewed up when removing the lower boot for the 20th time. That's no exaggeration. If anyone finds somewhere to order the pin/wire/blue bushing that is no longer available that would be great. I have a refurb Chinese TB that I think is junk doesn't work that I am going to dissect. If anyone is interested in what's inside I have not seen pictures of the inside of the hybrid m52tu throttle body.
Kburger


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It's so stupid. If i understand this correctly, the only time the electronic throttle from dme is activated is for abs/dsc? Really????? Balidawg not one week after all that work fixing Dsc it broke again for a new problem. Dsc rotation rate sensor. It's too much unnecessary BS. I have spent more years driving with abs broken then working. I know what it does. I don't want it. Too expensive to fix. Here is what I want. Do a delete for electronic throttle in the dme ms42. Drive by cable only. I have experienced many times what dsc does and what happens without it. 735,000 miles remember? Code delete for electronic throttle control and you will never see the eml light again for throttle issues. Of course you have old school issues, traditional issues. Not this complicated BS.


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Hey KB - did you see the pdf in post #13 of this other thread?

Gives some good testing info..

 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Hey KB - did you see the pdf in post #13 of this other thread?

Gives some good testing info..

Ef that's the clearest testing info I have seen yet thank you soooo much. Running good now on a yellow sticker TB I didn't know you could use either blue or yellow label. Very busy but I will dissect one of these and figure out how to repair it internally. Key is to cut it open without damaging anything. Especially the butterfly to spring plate assembly alignment. Gonna try to keep it cool somehow while cutting it open


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