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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I apologize in advanced for the essay I'm about to write. I'm trying to be as thorough with my information as possible.

I just bought a 2001 330CI Convertible in good condition for a really really low price, since it was not really drivable. Was looking for a project to work on.

To tell you a little bit about the car and some of the problems it had when I bought it:

-200,000KM, Automatic transmission
-Car was stored in a garage, not driven for 2 years.
-Power Steering completely dead
-Very rough idle, RPMs pulsing up and down like crazy
-Stalls most of the time when shifted in gear
-Red Oil Light when the car is switched ON, engine off
-When car is started, red oil light becomes a yellow oil light
-Yellow oil light goes away when I rev the engine

Here's what I've done to the car to try and fix the problems:

-Replaced Fuel Filter, and the rubber hoses
-Replaced all Spark Plugs (the old ones were all fouled completely black, with oil on the threads)
-Replaced Valve Cover Gasket
-Cleaned MAF Sensor
-Replaced DISA Valve O-Ring (The DISA Valve itself seemed in working order)
-Topped up with fresh gas to about half a tank. (Originally had a little less than a quarter tank of old gas)
-Techron Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank
-Motor Flush in the Oil, idled for 5 minutes, immediately followed by...
-Oil Change using Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic Oil

Engine Codes:

P0313 Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P1343 Misfire Cylinder 1 With Fuel Cut-off
P1345 Misfire Cylinder 2 With Fuel Cut-off
P1347 Misfire Cylinder 3 With Fuel Cut-off
P1349 Misfire Cylinder 4 With Fuel Cut-off
P1351 Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-off
P1353 Misfire Cylinder 6 With Fuel Cut-off

My assumption from all these codes...
All cylinders are misfiring randomly because the system is running lean?

Lower Intake Boot is in good condition, no rips. Any suggestions on what to do next? After all the work I've done above, the car has not changed much if at all from when I bought it.

I ordered a new power steering pump, which should be here by next week. Hopefully that solves that issue. The weird thing is, the dry fluid all over the current PS pump, and all the hoses around it, but the PS reservoir is full... Could the fluid be from something else? I'm really hoping the steering rack is okay, as it's an expensive part to replace. How can I tell if it needs to be replaced?

Few other parts I'm thinking about getting but looking for some input before I blow more money:
-Oil Level Sensor
-Oil Pressure Switch
-Fuel Pump
-Vanos Seals

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So just an update...

This morning I decided to try starting the car with the MAF sensor unplugged, and the rough idle is gone! It's not stalling at all anymore, and I don't think it's misfiring anymore either. I was able to take the car out for a test drive and it felt pretty good, no stalling. I've already tried cleaning the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner already. Does this mean I need a new MAF sensor?

Also, every time I start the car, there is billowing white smoke coming out of the exhaust. While I'm driving, I think there might be a little bit of white smoke, but nothing crazy. Is it a coolant leak? If so, where could it be leaking from where it results from smoke out of the exhaust? The valve cover gasket has just been replaced.

The engine gets very hot very fast, to the point where you can see smoke/steam coming out of the engine when you open the hood. Thermostat tops out at the very middle of C and F on the dash.
 

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Probably not the MAF. Unplugging the MAF will invoke a preset fuel map that does not need the MAF. You essentially ruled out fuel pump and filter, along with ignition. Probably vacuum leaks.
 

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Oil smoke and coolant smell different. Follow it to the source. My money is on oil. Whats the coolant and cooling system like? If it has not been run for 2 years rings may be gunked up. I'd make sure the cooling is good then run it more and it might come good. Otherwise check your compressions.
 

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DO NOT worry about the VANOS seals, this will cause you more headaches than things are worth at this point.

Smoke test is probably the quickest and best thing to do - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

Most likely the CCV lower oil return line is shot, probably some vacuum plugs missing or cracked on the rear of the intake.

Read the links in my signature. Consider replacing the fuel pump as PM as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Actually I've already seen your threads. It's been a lot of help!

Not worried about the misfiring and rough idle right now, since it's running fine without the MAF sensor. Probably a hidden vacuum leak that I can't find at the moment.

What I AM worried about right now is all the steam coming out of my exhaust pipes when I start the car. It's enough to fill my entire street. And I just noticed that the coolant is disappearing fast!!! And the engine gets so hot after it's been started, to the point where you can see smoke coming out of the engine bay within a minute after it's started. However, the coolant temperature gauge never passes the 12 o'clock mark in the dashboard. So is my coolant somehow getting burnt, even though I have a new valve cover gasket? I'm really hoping the there's nothing wrong with the head...

When I took the car home for the first time, I topped the coolant up right away with some "green coolant" which was a 50/50 mix of Prestone and distilled water. I used that stuff on my sisters E90 without a problem and thought it would be okay in this car. But doing a little bit of further reading, seems like I really should have used the OEM? Would the wrong coolant cause any of the problems I'm experiencing right now?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay I just confirmed that there is the "mayo" or "mustard" inside my coolant reservoir, which means oil got into the coolant right? And the coolant got into the engine which is the explanation for all the white smoke/steam out of the exhaust pipes?

Does this mean I need a new head gasket? Or possibly even worse? :(
 

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Okay I just confirmed that there is the "mayo" or "mustard" inside my coolant reservoir, which means oil got into the coolant right? And the coolant got into the engine which is the explanation for all the white smoke/steam out of the exhaust pipes?

Does this mean I need a new head gasket? Or possibly even worse? :(
It sounds like you have head gasket problem.
Does exhaust gas smell sweet?

Do these two tests to confirm:

1. Combustion gas leak test

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ON_RtokUohI

2. Compression leak down test.
 

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I suspect a bad head gasket.
+1 for Compression test.
 

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DO NOT worry about the VANOS seals, this will cause you more headaches than things are worth at this point.

Smoke test is probably the quickest and best thing to do - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

Most likely the CCV lower oil return line is shot, probably some vacuum plugs missing or cracked on the rear of the intake.

Read the links in my signature. Consider replacing the fuel pump as PM as well.
I have never even heard of using a cigar to find vacuum leaks. Wow

Awesome
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
To update you guys, I'm 99% sure the head gasket is blown. Coolant level drops fast, and tons of white steam coming out of the exhaust. I've been driving it a little bit, but I need to top up the coolant very often. Noticed a puddle of something under the radiator area, so it seems I have both a coolant leak there AND into the engine itself.

I know a lot of people are going to grill me for this, but I'm going to try the Bar's Leak Head Gasket fix and see if it helps. I don't usually believe it this kind of stuff you surprisingly there are a lot of good reviews on the stuff, so for $30, it's a last resort before I get the head gasket done.

Other than that though, it's been driving really well! No more overheating as long as I keep the coolant level at where it should be.

Also, the "mustard" that I thought was in the coolant reservoir was not actually what I thought it was. There seems to be a plastic white square block at the bottom of the reservoir. Hopefully that's normal...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just tried the stuff this afternoon. Poured it into the radiator hose, and then let it idle for 15 minutes. When I started it, still a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, but it does say that sometimes it takes a few days to set. Also... when the car was idling in those 15 minutes, I forgot to turn the heat on in the car... which is supposed to be very important according to the instructions. Might try it again...
 

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That head gasket fix-crap puts a thin ceramic coating around your entire cooling system. The heater has to be on so that all the coolant passages are open and the gunk allowed to circulate.

The Crap will gum up your thermostat, and all connections/interfaces inside the cooling system. Worst case scenario is that it may block a coolant passage somehow, causing your car to overheat. There are some cases where this stuff has caused a thermostat to stay shut.

I tried something similar on an Old Mazda. When i took of the Rad cap and the rad hose, i saw the gummy ceramic coating covering everything. Can't imagine how the coolant passages in the engine block look like. I'd never try it again, especially on a car i intend to keep.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just wanted to update. Couldn't really test the car for a week since I was having trouble installing a new coolant expansion tank (The answer is to use grease, and it'll snap on easily!)

But anyways, the Rislone Block Seal actually worked! I'm shocked. When I first poured it into the radiator and followed the instructions, I was still getting crazy white steam out of the exhaust for the next couple of days. They do say that sometimes it takes 3-4 days. THEN I realized I had a major external coolant leak, and thought maybe it didn't work, because most of it leaked onto the ground? So the car sat undriven for a week, I fixed my coolant leak, started the car and what do you know. It worked! No white smoke at all. I did some very spirited driving today and all is still good.

I was willing to give the Rislone one more shot since I thought it leaked onto the ground, but it looks like enough of it got through to the system anyway. I had already bought a second bottle... but now I'm gonna return it.

I know I know, it's a band-aid fix, but hey..... a $30 bill sounds a lot better than $1500, and some people have had this stuff going strong after 2-3 years without any issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll also add, even if it does somehow gum up my cooling system, I can replace the entire cooling system and it still would be worth it!
 

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Ive had the same problem but when i unplug the MAF i lose throttle control and when I plug it back in i can rev again
 
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