The last video with the engine idling so nice. A bad rod bearing should have shown up even if faintly. As rpm increased, it sounded like something was out of balance or loose and start hitting something else.Oh really so you don’t think it’s rod bearing then? Did the second video not sound like rod knock or something,
Does it always start with the knocking noise every time with the belt installed? But with belt removed it doesn't knock at idle rpm?So I’ve just taken the belts off and started the car up, I normally have a rattle when I start the car but it didn’t do it this time, I believe that may be due to a rattle with the power steering pump when I move the the wheel cw and ccw it rattles.
Ah okay yes I get what you mean, and for your second part: with the belt installed when I start the car I have a rattle as it turns on for a couple seconds then disappears whereas with the belt off I started it twice and it didn’t rattle at all on startup, also at idle it wasn’t knocking but normally it doesn’t knock straight away if I give it a minute or two or drive and put it in park and idle the knock at idle will appear, but as you can hear in the video the knock when I increased the rev was still present, and also sorry for the confusion I meant the wheel on the steering pump when I move it it rattles see video attached that’s all my pullys :The last video with the engine idling so nice. A bad rod bearing should have shown up even if faintly. As rpm increased, it sounded like something was out of balance or loose and start hitting something else.
Does it always start with the knocking noise every time with the belt installed? But with belt removed it doesn't knock at idle rpm?
It's too loud to call it rattling. What do you mean when moving the steering wheel and it knocks?
It can't knock at the top: Before the Bang by the spark, the rod pin is pushing the piston upward in compression, then BAng, the piston is pushing the rod pin down, and so the contact point never change and no knock. It will have light knock at before and after BDT as the pin pulls away from piston before BDT, then it pushes against the piston after BDT, so should be 2 knocks near BDT.it happens at the top of the stroke where the piston changes directions due to the bang of the ignition of fuel which slams the loose piston down onto the connecting rod.
Don’t attempt this project unless you’re a real technician/ mechanic!! This is major work. Everything will need to be inspected. You need a clean place to perform this. All the proper tools and equipment. Not to mention the specialty tools. Don’t even think about it!! This ain't no small block chevy!!Okay thank you both of you, I appreciate it, how would I go about fixing this then what parts do I need is it rod bearings, is it a hard job to do? I know it involves taking the oil pan off etc.. how much would it cost diy and would this have damaged any other components in the car?
I think you are right, another check is to pull one plug wire at a time until the knock goes away. Usually then you can say that particular piston has the rod knocking. Removing the fire removes the rod load. Worth a try.Rod knock. When you rev and let off the sound lessens during the over run. Classic rod knock. However, get a mechanics stethescope to be sure it is internal to the engine, not something like a belt pulley with a missing chunk...
It idles so nice and so I don't think it's related to the rod.I think you are right, another check is to pull one plug wire at a time until the knock goes away. Usually then you can say that particular piston has the rod knocking. Removing the fire removes the rod load. Worth a try.
This sounds like piston wrist pinhello everybody, I am looking for some help please my car is a 2001 330ci convertible my car is making a knocking/tapping sound at idle and when revving the car and driving. Basically the car has had this noise ever since I got it which was about a year and four months I feel like recently it has gotten worse.. the noise occurs at idle as you can hear in the video, and when I rev the car at a standstill and while driving when revving the car the noise is immediately there all the way up until about 3K revs when driving, the noise occurs more in first, and second and third and comes on when the revs are at about 2000 before 2000 It is really quiet and normal, but if I put the car in manual mode and drive in second once I start getting to 2000 revs, the noise comes and you can hear the rattle that you hear in the video , the noise is there till just over 3k rpm. I have done lots of work on the car such as new Disa valve, new camshaft position Sensor, the Vanos seals and rattle rings, new purge valve, services multiple times , new spark plugs and lots more done to the car. Any help would be massively appreciated thank you very much.. link to the video of my car below:
Rod knock. When you rev and let off the sound lessens during the over run. Classic rod knock. However, get a mechanics stethescope to be sure it is internal to the engine, not something like a belt pulley with a missing chunk...
OK, but you need to start checking things for the process of elimination. Best luckIt idles so nice and so I don't think it's related to the rod.
I agree it sounds like a rod knock. If that's what it is, as I understand it, a rod bearing is worn out and one or both ends of one or more connecting rods is loose. The engine might last quite a while or it could fail tomorrow. It's definitely not good. I had a very similar sound with a Ford V-8 for a very long time and it never failed in 50,000 miles. I'm not sure about the 330 engine but I know the 3.2 L engines are prone to rod bearing failure and were subject to a recall. The thing with BMW's seems to be that they are very nice, fast cars but they do require quite a bit of maintenance and it's not cheap. I was warned when I bought my first one and it's true. Good luck.hello everybody, I am looking for some help please my car is a 2001 330ci convertible my car is making a knocking/tapping sound at idle and when revving the car and driving. Basically the car has had this noise ever since I got it which was about a year and four months I feel like recently it has gotten worse.. the noise occurs at idle as you can hear in the video, and when I rev the car at a standstill and while driving when revving the car the noise is immediately there all the way up until about 3K revs when driving, the noise occurs more in first, and second and third and comes on when the revs are at about 2000 before 2000 It is really quiet and normal, but if I put the car in manual mode and drive in second once I start getting to 2000 revs, the noise comes and you can hear the rattle that you hear in the video , the noise is there till just over 3k rpm. I have done lots of work on the car such as new Disa valve, new camshaft position Sensor, the Vanos seals and rattle rings, new purge valve, services multiple times , new spark plugs and lots more done to the car. Any help would be massively appreciated thank you very much.. link to the video of my car below:
10W40 is noticeable cheaper than 5W30. I used to work at a warehouse which also sells engine oil, and despite 95% of our cars running on 5W30, 10W40 sold literaly 8 times more because people cheap out on oil like crazy.Cheaper than 5W30? Perhaps a Belgian thing. I'm used to paying the same for common grades, ATBE.
