George Hill· Registered
Fair enough, I would charge $414.61 for that (I'd bet that's one of the cheaper prices in the area too) and we don't have to deal with rusty hardware you like you guys do up north.I completely agree, didn't mean to make it sound like cheaper is better, however looking into the places that could do the rear wheel bearing another one quoted me 370$ and as I stated above 420$ ish, however both of those shops are about 45min-Hour away. Looking into Bavarian Specialties they are only about 20 minutes they seem like a very reputable shop in PA, and have great reviews from what I seen, and I am holding the word of @cjhinpa that they are a great shop to go too.
Ha! And that's why I figured it was to cheap, that looks like a nightmare. BMW says to replace the c-clip and that's why, lol.Thought you'd find this interesting! @George Hill
Well.. The center support and the guibo have definitely seen better days.
The early cars used a plunger style switch, one for when the pedal was at rest and a second for when it was pressed. That was changed around mid 2000 production IIRC and the new system uses the single clutch switch mounted on the clutch master cylinder (the 9231129 part you have listed) so the 8363710 is likely redundant.Thank you, much appreciated! On the note of clutch pedal switch, my wagon is currently auto and the pedal assembly my friend found at a Pick n Pull didn't have the switch. So I'll have to get a new one.
Be careful on the BH bolts, I've seen when they get rusty the end that sticks through the block will then tear up the threads as it comes through the block, the Bottom passenger side I've seen more than once break the block since it isn't well supported there (not the end of the world, but does hurt your feelings).Update on Manual Swap?
Engine is needing to be pulled. 🙄 Upstate NY wasn't too friendly to the E-Torx bolts on the bell housing, gonna have to be drilled out. I don't entirely mind engine being pulled out. It gives me perfect excuse to make him to do a few things I was planning to do in winter.
- Pulling Headers out to replace w/ E9x Studs and E36 Manifold Gasket + Wrapping Headers (bring the engine bay temps down)
I know, that's why I was wondering why you thought deleting the heat shield was a plus.Noted! I shall relay the information to my friend.
It doesn't have the heat shield on them.
Lol, ok, why would you not want the heat shield? Sorry, not trying to be difficult I'm just trying to understand the reasoning for removing them.Not a plus persay, but I rather not have the heat shield.
Fair enoughI mean i understand the main purpose was to deflect heat, and help protect the O2's a bit. However.. Im running catless headers. Also I have a M56 Valve Cover, so there's not much plastic around that area.
Is the front and rear suspension 325 still, how about the brakes?Option A:
- Z32 Rear Calipers
- E46 M3 Trailing Arms w/ JackalMotorsport RTABs (spherical) - (unless I can figure out how to do a custom brake shoe setup and retain my stock arms)
- 330i Rear Calipers & Trailing Arms w/ RTABs JackalMotorsport
- Paint Rear calipers same color as front
- JackalMotorsport Subframe Bushing (solid aluminum) & Reinforcement Plates
- LSD from Bimmerworld? I'll most likely retain the 3.46 Ratio and do Diffsonline 2-clutch LSD should be a decent setup for street?
Most likely going to put B30 Cams & B30 Intake and enjoy this thing N/A, should be just enough for the street and backroads.
How do you open the window?Lastly! Finally received KillAllWiper Kit. Looks great tbh, and I can still open the rear window if I need too!
View attachment 942909
Oh lol, I thought you meant it still worked from the window itself.Press the button the key fob, which pops open the window. Since I have small hands makes it easy to run my finger under the glass and pop it open.
At that point I'd look into these:I'll get some fixed camber plates from Turner which will put the front the front to ~(-2.5* Degrees), and I should be safe w/o rolling the fenders.
I'll be putting Z4 Strut Mounts as-well, so it'll lower the front end by another 7mm's or so with the camber plate.