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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I need help guys this is my last resort. I have been having trouble with this car for the past 2 months. I have not been able to drive it except to see if it is fixed. So any help would be greatly appreciated. So about 2 months or so ago I was driving the car and there were no real problems except for the slight miss it had as it needed new coils. Then I got annoyed with not being able to here the car as I live in the country and every car is excessively loud and I shift off of the sound of the engine usually. So I cut off the muffler with the exhaust tips on them and the one before that that is smaller. I drove it for two weeks or so and then I got the new o2 sensors and I had them put in by a friend who is a mechanic. And he put the new one in and then realized that the other o2 sensor was a post cat not a pre cat as I ordered 2 pre cats. (Replacing o2 sensors because the obd2 saved it needed bank 1 sensor 2 and the other). So my friend took the o2 sensors out and put in the old ones and that was it. He cleared the codes and called me. I get over there the next day and I test drive it. Immediately I realize something is not right. The car would loose power around 2500+ rpm, and after a minute or so of driving the car would start missing and it would sound like it was running on 3 cylinders or less. So I take the car back and tell him and we try to figure it out. And as we are both not bmw specialists we are stumped. So we limp it back to my house (right down the road) and park it. After awhile of searching I came up with nothing. So I put it on a trailer and drive it 1 hour away to a euro mechanic. He says he can't figure out what is wrong with it as he can't drive it to reset the computer to check the computer. But he does say it needs a new ccv valve and it need the exhaust back on. So I trailer it back home and then I put back on the resonator and test drive it again. After the resonator was put back on it seemed to not loose power as soon and it seemed to run a little longer before missing but this could just be being optimistic. Now the car is sitting in my front yard (and doesn't make to bad of a yard orniment) waiting to be fixed. Also the car was bought needing a whole cooling system which was replaced and it needs a sensor or something for the fan as it overheats in traffic cause fan does not turn on. Has a k&n drop in and new spark plugs. Also upon thinking more the car might not have had the exhaust for more like a month. And please this is my only car and also the first car I bought myself, I love it but I am grtting tired of driving my grandmother's Buick century to work. I am willing to fix it but it is also up on Craigslist for sale. NEED HELP BAD!!!!!!!
 

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First things first, you need a decent OBDII scan tool of some sort. Around $30 for a smart phone App and interface or about $60 for a decent tool that has on display graphing.

The first thing that comes to mind is the O2 sensor wiring can be mixed up.

Hard to follow what you posted, but the Pre-Cat O2 sensor connectors could easily be mixed up, but I have seen almost every screwed up configuration to include the front and rear sensors and the car harness connectors connected to themselves, the front and rear sensors swapped and the wiring swapped bank to bank.

You could also have a bad fuel pump causing problems as well.

Suggest you read the links below in my signature.

If you have questions on OBDII tools, I need to know what smart phone platform you are running.

Also look up the O2 sensors in this link, pay very careful attention to the gender of the connections and make sure someone did not swap the front and rear sensors at some point.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehiclepartfinder/pages/vehiclepartfinder.aspx

Drill in and look at the picture of the sensor and connectors, this is a very accurate online application guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, thanks for replying. I think I tried swapping the connectors for the o2 sensors be for but I'll try again tomorrow. I would like to get the app. I have an android note 3. Thank you very much. I'll look into the other links as well.
 

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http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluet...ie=UTF8&qid=1413077320&sr=8-1&keywords=elm327

And either Torque Pro or TouchScan for Android.

Be careful just swapping O2 sensor connections. If you had an OBDII scan tool you could be 100% sure when things are correct.

But the front and rear O2 sensors connectors are opposite and could be plugged into each other. Same for the Pre-Cat and Post-Cat connectors in the engine bay.

A decent OBDII tool will allow this to be sorted out. Keep in mind the OBDII Apps will have some learning curve as they have a BUNCH of hidden menus since there are only a few soft buttons on the phone.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tried it out on my grandmother's car and it worked great. Gonna have to wait a bit to try it on my car as the battery is shot. When I get a new one I will try and diagnose the problems in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ok, so I got a spare battery to test with and 11 codes came up plus I saw that short term fuel trim sensor 2 is going negative when it starts to missfire. It threw 10 codes in accessory and it threw 11 after it was running. I can take a video of it running and it starting to miss if that helps.And also the maf sensor was unplugged for all the tests today, I'll do them all again tomorrow with it in. Any help is GREATLY appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I also noticed that the car will start to missfire sooner the more warm it is. I did not get to mess with the o2 sensor plugs and wiring today but I will get to them tomorrow.
 

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Look at my sig.....for new members. It will teach you how to post pictures. Also a rundown of software.

It sounds like something simple. All those codes seem to be coming from one master problem. Solve that and they go away.

Your problem sounds O2 sensor related. Like they are crossed. Or made in China. With sensors always buy oem.....with O2 sensors you need bosch at least.

I'm 50 miles away from you
 

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That's cool.....but true story. I see people on here all the time selling their newly bought e46 for almost nothing.

Transmission issues, suspension issues, multiple lists on the dash, engine running problems. The last one was a 330ci for $2000 up in nashville. They can't fix them and the euro tech repair houses charge a fortune for even saying bmw when you walk into the shop.

I called one up the other day and asked him how much to reprogram the abs module on my car. He told me $200. I said
"For what, 5 minutes of your time and use of your gt machine I can get for $36 on a cheap lap top" he lowered it to $75. I was just curious. I had already done it months past. Plus the $150 used module. Plus labor to install it. And the $175 he was going to charge to bleed the brakes. He quoted me $700 to replace what I just replaced for $80. A $700 repair or a $3000 transmission repair blows the budget for some.

The point is. There are many on here and more so on Craig's list who either can't afford it, or can't fix it. Then it ends up on Craig's list for a steal. When inpa can tell you what's wrong wih it in minutes if you can understand it or have the patience to know what all this should be doing. A poorly running car sells for chump change......Don't take it personally. I would rather help you solve your problem than buy your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's exactly why it's not for sale. I've been roughing through it for the past three months. And your right it is most likely something simple. But I see how people sell them, they work a lot and then there car has something go wrong with it and there knowledge doesn't go beyond basic repair or its just to complicated. These car are not easy to repair at all compared to my last vehicle. But I'm prepared to stick it out and go the long haul. Getting real tired of my car being a yard ornament tho.
 

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What is somewhat confusing the STFT are very high, while the LTFT show as 0%.

You obviously need to get familiar with the OBDII App. The 2nd set of graphs is very cluttered and useless for the most part.

You do not need to post screen shots if you are having issues doing so. We just need the data.

The page with Freeze Frame data would be useful.

The data that will be useful is the STFT, LTFT, MAF reading in Gram/Sec, Engine Temp.

The simplest way to sort out if the O2 sensors/wiring is mixed up is to bring up the 4 O2 sensor gauges in a graph form and then unplug a single O2 sensor connector and see what O2 sensor quits responding. The graph should go flat possibly around 0.4 Volts.

Then figure out if the O2 sensor you disconnected is in the location for the gauge/graph that quits responding.

The O2 sensors you can see on the passenger side of the cylinder head, right at the edge of the valve cover are the Pre-cat O2 sensor or Sensors #1. The front most sensor is Bank #1, the rear most sensor is Bank #2.

Figure out where to find the Freeze Frame page in Torque and post or put document the info here. This will save 20 questions.
 

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3 moths is a long time. We went through a soft fail maf sensor that was made in China which cost me a month. I learned a lot about graphing and fuel trims. I think what he said ^ will help a lot.

My car still has some stuff going on, I'm just finishing up the paint project so it's been back on the road the past two days. It's been in down for 19 months. There are bugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I found where the freeze frame option is. I won't be able to give Any Data till later. I don't think I have had the car run long enough to get any long term data. It starts to miss after a couple of minutes, and also the one sensor goes into -20 when it starts to miss. What sensors would I need to check the o2 sensors and also all those codes were with maf sensor unplugged. I will get more data with it plugged in later. Tell me all the data you guys will need and I'll get it later. Also I could use a better understanding of freeze frame.
 

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Freeze Frame info will ONLY be available when the SES/CEL/MIL is on. Once you clear codes, Freeze Frame data is cleared and cannot be displayed.

Keep in mind you could have vacuum leaks, a bad fuel pump, bad fuel or sensors improperly connected or providing bad data.

Search YouTube Scotty Smoke Test for ideas, look at his and other video that come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got the freeze Frame data for you guys but it is the data from last code search. Also I looked at the o2 sensor plugin, it seemed that the o2 plugin that was longer to reach bank 1 was plugged into bank to and the same way for the shorter cable. Right now it is running ok as I'm sitting in it letting it run for a minute and it is almost at a normal temp(Still heating up) and no horrendous miss yet just the miss from the bad coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well guys, it's fixed. I swapped over the o2 sensor wires and it ran great. Drove it around and took it through all the gears and had the biggest smile on my face. I looked at the fuel trim codes and it seems that they were steady around 28 or so and moved around while I was driving. Now I need to get all the maintenence up to date and I should be good. Also it overheats when it's not moving, and the fan doesn't come on. I replaced the fan with a new one when I first got the car and it never turned on(except when we hard wired it). Is there a sensor that might need to be replaced to fix this? Besides that problem, it needs new coils, o2 sensors (I'll remember to put them in correctly this time) and spark plugs. Everything will be bosh this time around and do you guys have any preference on a spark plug, wanna get some that will work good thank you guys all for your help it's been a real pain the past couple of months, but it's finally running again.
 

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i keep torque pro online and the wireless blue receiver in my data port at all times. the key with o2 sensors is
looking at both of them engage. they are not engaged when you start a cold car. once it warms up they come in.
you watch where they come in. do they come in together at the same time.

after they are in do they bounce between .1 and .8

im glad you got it fixed after so much time.
now go look on craigs list for cheap cars with crossed o2 sensor wires and flip them.

your fuel trim should not be even close to 28. more like +5 or less on the ltft side

do not let this car overheat. the temp gauge is never to move past the half mark. you can cause this particular engine serious damage. 96c is its operating temp.
 
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